Member postings for vintagengineer

I would go with a straight key as these are stronger and less likely to weaken the bar.

This might be the same crap that SU carburettors are made of. I tried TIG welding one and got large quantities of blue smoke, a sign of zinc.

Vintage car ali castings are full of zinc due to it being cheaper than ali and you can add it to molten ali to bulk it out

Rub them with a bar of soap and heat until the soap goes black the chuck them in a bucket of water.

The best way is like Neil said and use a pipe roller.

Sorry for being pedantic, but the word is indices.

Use broken endmills.

Try un-bolting it from the stand and see if it is still twisted.

When I did my apprenticeship I was taught a fitters job was to make parts fit not just fit parts! And don't trust other peoples work to be correct, check against the drawing!

Edited By vintagengineer on 21/08/2017 19:39:39

Having worked for a major bank on IT security we found this was the only way to be 100% sure that all data was rendered un-useable. We never sold or disposed of any hard drives without destroying them. We were advised by Government security advisors that you can always recover data from a hard drive and it was proven to us that this was possible.

Do not buy one unless you can trust the previous owners. You will never know what has been down loaded. If you do buy make sure you keep the receipt as proof of date of ownership. That way you can prove what files you are liable for.

And remember you can never delete files from the hard drive, you need to remove the hard drive and smash it with a large hammer. This is the only way to stop anyone retrieving any data from the drive!

The oven shelves are made of a high tensile steel. If they were made from mild steel they would sag due to the heat cycling.

When the pressure is released the remaining water will instantly boil and turn to steam. Just like taking the radiator cap off your car when the engine is very hot.

Also you need to keep clearances as tight as possible to stop the O ring being extruded into the gap. If it is being used for high pressure you use back up rings.

These people sell some really nice chemicals!  http://www.unitednuclear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=16_17_69 

Edited By vintagengineer on 12/08/2017 18:36:36

I have repaired similar. Machine the top of the tee off for a long enough to get four threaded holes in. Then bolt a cast iron plate in the machined place. Countersink the holes in the plate and make four studs with countersunk heads.

Fit the plate with these then machine the studs flush.

If possible I would extend the gusset past the centre line of the pin.

I assume woodruff keys are fitted as it easier to manufacture for mass production work, but tend to be weaker as they take out more material than needed.

I prefer straight gears as you only need to remove a minimal amount of material from the shaft.

Oh, the good old Pikey keys, will open anything!

Enerpac hollow jack and jack them out.

At the mill we did a similar thing with a 24" stroke shaper and an air grinder to grind hard faced wear plates. We only did it on night shift as the noise was horrendous!