Member postings for S Deakin

I have started posting the odd video or two on You Tube, they may be of interest.

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Edited By S Deakin on 14/09/2014 01:51:06

Can I recommend Morris Oils straight cutting oil.

It's main advantages are:- It lubricates the machine ways, It does not evaporate, mould does not form under surfaces in sliding contact. My last point may or may not matter to yourself, I have found, it does not cause me to itch when it gets on my hands.

Steve

I started my Rob Roy forty years ago. Can I wish you a speedier build than I have managed.

I have been impressed with Morris Oils neat cutting oil. The big advantage's are, it does not degrade (like soluble does) it lubricates the machine bedways, it does not itch my skin, it works with all common materials including copper.

On first using it I did notice that it dissolves all the muck and grime in tanks and tube work.

If you just want to try it without committing to a large drum of the stuff, it's available in smaller quantities.

Hi Paul

Make sure to put a damp proof layer in or a simpler way that also seals the concrete against oil spills is to add PVA in the mix. This leaves a nice glossy floor and when you sweep it out (if ever) you will find it does not become a dust bowl.

Hi

Have a look at "mikesworkshop" web site, for his version.

Just put a piece of thin rag over the end of the oil gun, something the oil can get through and pump away.

On my 254 I only have to release two of the Allen cap head screws to use backgear, but it is still a weak point with no interlock to the speed selector lever, what would happen if this vital step was forgotten I do not know.

All your attachments tooling from the S7 will fit, vertical slides etc. are however mounted far from ideally, being way below their centre heights. The tailstock is a weak point, the barrel being the same as the S7 just in a larger casting. if using Dickson quick change tooling, you are restricted to rather small tools for such a large lathe.

On to the positive's, D1-3 camlock chuck mount is the best choice, the bolted on chuck option is fiddly to change, the power cross feed is good, the covered leadscrew is good, the speed range is good (bare in mind the silly back gear) digital readout scales fit quite easily. The topslide is more robust and far easier to use. All your Dickson tooling (if you have that type of toolholder now) fits. The extra centre height means making those traction engine flywheels are now possible or turning castings which are that little bit to large or heavy for the S7. The chucks are far more robust. The number 4 morse in the headstock is useful as is the larger through bore.

Try A and R Precision Ltd. they make and supply the holders from their factory via. ebay. The Myford ones are about 25 mm square and hold 12mm tooling, think they make other sizes as well.

Edited By S Deakin on 31/12/2013 12:24:31

Just a tip, that may come in handy, if you have the standard clamp down tool post on at the moment, you will notice a compression spring lifting the casting up, I would leave that in place within the Dickson toolpost, then in ten or twenty years time when you want to hold some particularly large tool or job for machining, it will not be missing or used on something else.

It's just struck me Dave it may be worth while reaching down the hole from the oil cup to the spring, with something like an electrical size screw driver and seeing if there is any spring movement, you will not feel much, but as you say it has never in all these years used oil, it would be interesting to know that all is well, if it had been changed for instance one would suspect that what ever was used to hold the wick assembly clear of the mandrel during the rebuild was still in there, may be worth having a really good look to see what you can see.

Check out Morris Oils for Hydraulic 32 weight oil, they are very friendly and deliver at a reasonable cost. If you are near Shrewsbury or Stoke they have a retail counter at either of those depots saving the delivery charge.

Hi Dave my super7 shows a very slight ring of oil around the mandrel and nose bearing, which is as it should be. Take a look at the above drawing and note that the wick has to be in contact with the spindle / mandrel. It would not do any harm if you decide to drop the spring / wick out and inspect it, I think new wicks are available from Myford's.

I would love to see ME getting back to the wider spread of topics we once had. A tool grinder would make a very good project, the one envisaged sounds to me like a very useful bit of kit, with the price of castings now making most projects a non starter, it would be refreshing to see a machine such as this made from bar stock, the CNC aspect would also be worthy of investigation. So yes, please think about running the series.

Stephen.

Thanks for the feedback chaps. It looks like one has to be careful in selecting the DTI that will do what you require. I would definatly not want a digital that did not rotate, but do you know, there is no mention of this feature on the Mitutoyo or Moore and Wright web pages.

Hi

Does anyone know if the readout rotates on digital style DTI

Thanks

If you really want to stick to 5/32 material Stephen, then try to souce Gauge Plate. This will cut into super frame material as it is ground and stress relived. Buck and Hickman or your local engineers supply company should be able to offer a couple of suitable pieces, though it's not cheap.

Look around the rear of the saddle, with the cross slide wound towards you (if you are standing at the front of the lathe) until it gives a clear view of the vertical face of the saddle. There should be a nipple about four inches to the left from the rear shear right hand edge. If thats where you have a threaded hole, it should be 2BA. Nipples are available from Myford.

Take a look at "Doubleboost" on you tube. A down to earth guy, doing some great work.

Hi

Would like to reccomend the following site for anyone interested in machining, welding and general metalwork.

It's on You Tube, search for, Keith Fenner.