Member postings for I.M. OUTAHERE

Heavy diff oil will do , most diffs have shims that are copper alloy probably bronze and manual gearboxes have syncro rings made of similar stuff .

The stuff in mine is very thick almost like honey .

There is not much load there .

Ian.

Hi, i recently picked up this Mercer dial indicator and was wondering if anyone has seen one like it or how to mount it as any clamping force on the stem housing locks it solid .

Ian

Although i haven't tried it , what about clear nail polish thinned with acetone ?

What about 2 pak clear Automotive paint ?

I would never have thought of hair spray !

Ian.

Not sure of this machine but could it possibly have taper bearings that just need adjusting ?

I find it strange that it has had little use but runout has become gruesome.

How are you checkiing the runout ?

I would check the chuck and its monting / locating register before pulling it to bits

For Chinese machines i usually check on the Grizzly machinery website as they seem to have the best manuals , you just have to look for a machine that looks the same as yours and download the manual .

Ian.

Edited By XD 351 on 04/08/2016 20:02:09

The Robrenz channel on YouTube just put out a video on lapping cylinders or bores , although he is doing much larger bores than we do the basic principle is the same .

Probably worth a look for those who have never seen or done any lapping .

Damned if i can find the hobbynut channel or user ?

Thenks Jason and Ian .

The 2P and 4E seems to be something the manufacturers have conjured up as i can't find anything about what it means and there is the 3D for ductile .

They are both covered under AS & BS as the same classification but they do differ in composition , the 2P has some different elements that make it more wear resistant, they both seem to sit mid scale for pressure rating @ 250 mpa.

I suppose for a low speed model engine that will not do a lot of work the softer 4E will do .

Funny thing about meehanite , from what i can gather it is more about the manufacturing process than actual composition as Wikipedia have as a patented manufacturing process for fine grain grey cast iron .

The engine is a 62 cc Rosebery

Ian.

Hi ,

I will be starting on a hit and miss engine later this year , i picked up the castings from that auction site we all know but the materials for the cylinder liner and piston were not included .

The drawings only state cast iron for both so i need to purchase some cast iron bar to make these but ...

I can get 4E grade in the right diameter for the liner and have some 2P grade here that will do the piston and rings .

So what i want to know is :

Will the 4E grade be ok for the Cylinder?

Will the 2P grade be ok as piston/rings running in the 4 E grade cylinder ?

I am led to believe that 4E is slightly softer and a little less wear resistent tha 2P and its structure is a little different ( pearlite v semi pearlite etc )

Up until now my engines have been Aluminium piston in what ever chunk of cast iron i could scrounge for a cylinder and i used thae same suff for rings .

Ian..

I forgot that i have a few dies marked SRA ( state rail authority) yet another alias that the rail system in NSW has used.

I am intrigued as to how they migrated to the UK though.

I would imagine that they would have been quite expensive and something that would need to be signed out of the tool store so not easily nicked !

Ian

I doubt it as the rail system and its repair yards are but a shadow of their former glory .

I'm only guessing but i remeber the Railcorp logo and commonwealth engineering (comeng) but they no longer exist so i would say NSWTD was before that

now we have traansport nsw etc .

Maybe you could contact Australian rail historical society ( www.arhsnsw.com.au ) maybe they could shed some light on the subject .

Ian.

Hi Andrew,

I wonder if CHUL . LOCO SET No2 could mean they came from Chullora depot here in Sydney ?

Ian.

Some quick sums seems to indicate that by using the boring bar hole that is closest to the dial will bore a larger hole by 3mm dia if you wind the leadscrew out until it is just full engaged in the leadscew nut .

My thinking was that if the outer hole(furthest from dial ) could bore the larger diameter with the dovetails fully engaged it is a stronger set up than having the slide half way out on the dovetail .

Ian.

Neil, now i see what you mean !

Having the slot open would allow swart and dirt to get into the area that is supposed to ptotect the leadscrew thread also .

If i'm getting this right the outer boring bar mounting hole( furthest from the dial ) will give you the maximum bore diameter with this boring head when the slide fully engaged in the dovetail ?

Ian.

I did convert an old grease gun to oil after watching Lautard's video but stopped short of the nozzle modifications as i was happy with how the grease nozzle worked although i have to ensure it is on the nipple dead straight or it leaks .

Make shure the nipples are new zirk type ( standard type grease nipple) as old ones are usually worn or damaged.

Maybe you could try the gun before the nozzle conversion then after and give us some feedback on the results ?

If you feel the results justify the extra modifications then i will be doing mine asap.

Ian

just had a look at the digital edition of ME , looks like there is a new book coming out !

Ian

You may find front loading washing machine powder to work as it is low suds .

I usually use an ultra sonic cleaner with a mild degreaser.

Clive , i recently seen an advert for steel pins for cleaning brass cases (rifle / pistol ) never seen them before !

I used to use corn cob pet bedding and load it with liquid car polish for my ammo - best stuff i ever used and dirt cheap.

Ian

What really amazes me is that some people will turn cast iron and not give a damn about their machine but will tell you wood is the son of the devil itself , as long as you don't let wood dust sit too long as it will attract moisture you won't hurt you lathe .

Wood is softer than cast iron and used to be used for bearings !

The only thing i see as a limiting factor is the spindle speeds , you can really crank up the speed on wood .

If you take a look at the clickspring channel on youtube you will see him using a tool rest and a graver to turn brass in much the same way you use a rest and chisel to turn wood , you could make your own tool rest and leave the saddle at rest right up the tail stock end of the lathe nicely covered and protected from the so called evil wood dust !

Would love it see some of your work , maybe some pics ?

Ian

Edited By XD 351 on 20/05/2016 07:50:02

An adjustment of my previous post is needed !

The locking screws at 10mm centres are for the gib strip not the boring bar and the inner boring bar hole is not on centre but off set 2.5 mm towards the dial end of the slide , sorry i was flipping back and forth between this forum and pocket mags to check the drawings!

Neil , i would have though assembly to be the opposite to dissassembly - well that is what my Gregorys' car repair manual would leave one to believe !

I thought that the assembly of these components would be very similar to that of the lathe cross or compound slide on a sieg C2 lathe , slide the dovetails in until the nut hits the end of the feedscrew then turn the feedscrew counterclockwise until you feel the threads click and then wind the feedscrew into the nut - if that doesn't work pound it into submission with the biggest hitting implement you can find !

Ian

3/8 sq tool steel with a hand ground radius

Clamp the tool steel in a vise with the top surface just below the top of the vise jaws use a 3/8 drill shank end as a guide and a carbide scriber to mark out the radius then grind on a bench grinder and finish on an oil stone .

Set your grinder rest up on centre height of the grinding wheel this will give you enough relief angle under the cutting edge

Your biggest enemy will be chatter , i would stop just shy of the required depth and shut the lathe off then use hand power to rotate the chuck and feed in the tool a few thousndths every second rotatoin of the chuck this will clean up the chatter .

Then give it a polish with some fine emery , the most important thing is that the bore and the surface where the belt runs are true with each other and the surface the belt runs on is smoothe and remember it is a pulley not a precision gear so you have a little bit of room to play with