Member postings for Ady1

You don't have to have a countershaft, a direct drive will do.

I would definitely go for the v-belt system if you can, more stable.

I set up a temp direct drive system about 2 years ago, then found it great for when I messed up because the belt slips when you crash into something you shouldn't or the tool digs in

You make quite a few mistakes at the start and a "slippy" belt system is not a disadvantage.

Too much power/speed is not a good thing for a newbie

I would recommend setting things up so your spindle speed is less than 500rpm max at the start

After a few months you'll take your own path

For anything over about 6mm I tend to cut a lot of the thread on a lathe then finish with the die.

This also means you have a straight thread

Taps seem to be a lot more user friendly up to 12mm, although I prefer 10mm max.

Dont forget you can put a ferrule on a bamboo pole too, just like with a fishing rod.

gl

I would use wood or bamboo

Seven feet of ali will bend easily, and look pretty silly after you've tried to straighten it up.

Bamboo may have the best combination of lightness and strength.

It's tough stuff

Remember those fishing nets we used as kids to catch minnows?

Any thoughts /ideas/ tips/ pointers to a bettr technique would be good

If you're getting weird results when you shouldn't get weird results...then use delrin.

With delrin you can cut your thread in 5 mins flat and then test it

Alternatively, use aluminium

When you get it right the thread should be a doddle to screw in, no resistance, nice and snug.

Then do a proper steel one.

if you have any good local welders perhaps it could be brazed or CI welded?

Was thinking that.

There's not a great deal of stress on that part, it only needs to be functional.

My M series could also use a bit of 12-13mm flat plate if there was no banjo at all.

Edited By Ady1 on 12/03/2012 14:42:46

Nimh seem to be the biz.

I've got an ancient mobile phone and an old black and decker Quattro unit with NiMH batteries.

Both are fine and still recharge no problem

NiMH seem to go on forever.

Sounds like a good deal to me.

I've got a bridge I can sell him.

Buyer uplifts after the payment clears

Edited By Ady1 on 09/03/2012 14:50:47

It depends on the size of your picture.

The forum software should do these things automatically.

The default size is wrong, you need to adjust it manually in dreaded-edit-mode

It looks like there were quite a few types/mods as well

http://modelenginenews.org/people/dc_ltd.html

Dont even think about hitting the chuck key. ouch.

Find or make up a block of wood and use it against the jaws with the backgear engaged.

Move the backgear backwards manually and the chuck will undo itself, you may need a lever, like the bit of metal sticking up out of my lathe, you will need to adapt things to your own lathe layout.

Once you have the right setup a stuck jaw will never be anything more than an inconvenience.

Do it at right angles, like in the picture, so there are no weird stresses on the jaw, and vertically down into the lathe bed.

easy peasy lemon squeezy

Edited By Ady1 on 07/03/2012 23:54:01

stuff issued under the banner of 'Government Property'

At school all my pens pencils rulers and rubbers had "property of HM Government" stamped on them

I think they were liberated from the GPO

Was that not just the Hai-Karate, or splash it all over 'enry Brut33 you guys were wearing back then?

Potent stuff...irresistible to women

Did it on my lathe once...and once only...holy smoke what a mess

I would recommend breathing protection, and don't run the cutter too fast or it will get too hot and blunt faster, you'll have to suss out your own cutters speedwise

Very noisy and messy at high speed with bits and dust floating all over the shop, every piece of equipment and tooling in your workshop will have a covering of fine sawdust after 5 minutes so watch your electric motor inlets etc

gl

Edited By Ady1 on 05/03/2012 09:55:00

...tested under dermatological and gynaecological control...

There must be an EU wiping directive for loo paper, like for the straightness of bananas

I wonder how my grannys "Izal Medicated" (anyone remember that stuff? omg.) would do

Andrex - soft strong and very long

Izal Medicated -  not for the faint hearted

Edited By Ady1 on 05/03/2012 00:44:40

25.4/0.9 is 28.222 tpi

Tried a "devo max" (scottish colloquialism)

12.7tpi

gears 19.20.21.22.25.30.35.40.43.45.47.49.50.55.60.63.65.70.73.80

closest is:

19 50/47 60/49 55 for an error of 0.01491%

85 million iterations

Got nowhere with an exact match on a metric 12.7tpi, up to 85 million iterations.

A doddle with 8tpi though, loads of combinations

20.20/20.20/35.40 etc etc etc

Got a 28tpi match for 0.9mm

2mm leadscrew is 12.7 tpi

with 20.25.30 35.40.45.50.55.60.65.70.80 and 63 the nearest is

20 45/50 63/50 and 50

which gives an error of 0.00176336, about 0.2%

So you're going to need to have a few weird number gears to have a hope of an exact match.

Hi lathe is metric the pitch for the thread is .9 according to the thread gage

Metric what? 2mm? You havent even told us what your leadscrew pitch is yet.

To help we need

Leadscrew pitch. 2mm?

Thread pitch 9mm? 9.5mm?

It doesn's matter whether the thread is cut on 9.5 inches or 9.5 metres, but we need the thread pitch and the leadscrew pitch.

Then I need your gears, and your gearing configuration.

Most lathes are 1-2-2-1 headstock-compound-compound-leadscrew

I can crank through 50 million combinations and permutations in about 3 minutes...but only if I know what you have to play with

Edited By Ady1 on 01/03/2012 00:19:05