Member postings for fizzy

Kwil - nothing to do with cavalier attitude, more to do with people who have no experience quoting inaccurate informational having read something in a book somewhere written by another person who probably did the same. If you know better then please enlighten us with your experience. I share mine in order to help others from the pitfalls of missguided information, whether it flies in the face of popular myth or not. Show me someone on here with more experience of silver soldering and I will bow to their word. Hundreds of boilers made, not a single return, complaint or even negative comment ever made. Jason - the gap grows condiderably when heated, almost to the point that it is too big a gap, hence a nice tight fit at the start yields perfect results once youve gone all over the piece. I will offer no further advice on any aspect of boilers, ask Kwill in future, no one wants to hear from a proffesional boiler maker! PM me if you have anything you want to ask.

No - the standard steam ones rely on gravity to close the inlet, but you can use a stainless spring to do the job instead and have them in any position - tricky part is getting the spring strength just right. You can buy sprung valves for oil but im not aware of any for steam/water so you may have to make your own. The clack doesnt have to be next to the boiler, it can be anywhere in the feed line, cant you just move it away to where you have space?

Take it from me, a gap is the very last thing you want when silver soldering, at least in terms of what the average person regards as a gap. I soldered a boiler end plate which had a couple of thou gap yesterday - absolute nightmare, I should have just remade the part. In copper The best result is obtained whjen the pieced are a tight fit, yes, I said tight fit! I completely agree with Bob. I have read many times referance to leaving a gap and have to conclude that anyone who tells you to leave a gap has absolutely no experience whatsoever of silver soldering.The Australian code body did some interesting research and testing of copper boiler end plate joints a while back, I cant post it as I no longer have it but if anyone else does it blows apart a few of the myths regarding phlanging and solder penetration.

NaHSO4 works well if you keep it warm, but that means leaving the power on in the workshop all night which im not keen on, when it cools it forms a crystaline structure in the bottom of the tank.

Missed the end as I was half way through a silver solder.,...went for £260 ish which was a bargain, assuming its any good. Would still like to know where it originated as to me it looks nicer than the D10.

Must admiy ive never seen one...but clearly it exists. Unfortunately the manufacturers are prone to fitting different circuit boards depending on what they can source, your best bet it to call the machinemart dedicated parts centre and ask them to identify it, if you get the right chap they are very helpful. I have a lathe and a mill with blown circuit boards which I wont be repairing any time soon.

You could buy conc H2SO4 through amazon last year but not now. Brick cleaner is Hydrochloric acid and I have yet to try it but im in dire need of 5 gallons so am ordering some now. I have several gallons of conc citric acid which I have found to be next to useless for my application (pickling boilers on a regular basis).

Tried to call LAS but no answer and no answerphone - cant find anything like it

This engine is ont bay - looks good - ium looking for a workhorse to bench mark boiler improvments. Twice the bore and stroke of a D10 if info is correct and has an A cast into valve chest sides - is it a cheap rip off or a legit motor?

**LINK**

Its simply dissplacement - oil and brass body are cooler than the steam passing the opening so a little condenses, water being more dense than oil sinks to the bottom of the holder and in turn dissplaces the same volume of oil - only place for it to go is out the same hole the water came in from - its then moved by steam.

Hi Duncan. Much as I advocate the free sharing of information in this case I'm afraid that I need to keep my design to myself as it is a major selling point of my boiler and burner combinations. You are correct that absolutely no otrher air source than the 4 x inlet tube holes are required. The slits you see on my and others burners around the area of flame front are there to even out the harmonics caused by the burner. If you dont get these just right the boiler howls so much so that without ear-plugs you cant stand close to it - it hurts! I can tell you that making a ceramic burner is a doddle in design terms compared to a brass one - I make and sell both. There is a lot more info on some of the French model boat sites. Nigel @ Pendle Steam

You need to let the hearth breathe a bit - the burner had used all availible oxygen, hold torch further away for better results.

My mum saw that, believed it and raised us thinking it grew on trees!!

Best stuff ive used is Plastic padding bodyfiller

thank yolu all - i made a reading error. 5mm is the minimum, but the cheapest is still £50, thanks one and all

ahhhh...mine has top be 50mm minimum and their biggest is 10mm...I will give them a call!

Thanks Michael - thats exactly what Ive been looking for

My old stamp is broken, place I bought it from no longer exists so I need a new one - any suggestions as I cant find an off the shelf one on internet?

From my somewhat extensive research and development of gas fed burners I can say that a well designed burner needs no other air than that drawn in by the air holes adjacent to the gas jet, and that air should come from outside the combustion chamber to ensure it is a dense as possible. Taking air from inside a hot boiler as depicted is about the worst possible solution. I have tested all of my burners inside a completely sealed flue and all function adequately, needless to say that they function better with a chimney! There are several videos of burner tests both on youtube and on my website if anyone wants to see what they should burn like.

Nigel - Pendle Steam Boilers

To add to Neils input. it isnt a one off, i have seen a few of these but cannot recall who made them. not much help i know