Member postings for Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, again, Mark,

If you do decide to buy a new bull wheel and back-gear cluster, I suggest the following modification:

Drill a hole (say, 6 mm clearance) through the bull wheel diametrically opposed to the sliding gear segment. (While the bull wheel is off the mandrel this is more convenient than having to disassemble the lathe. If I were to need to remove my lathe mandrel and bull wheel for any reason, I would perform this same modification before reassembly.)

Then cut a length of square bar to span the head-stock casting and fit a 6 mm dowel in such a position that the dowel can be engaged with the hole in the bull wheel with the ends of the bar resting on the front and rear of the head-stock casting.

Should you, for example, need to unstick a stubborn chuck, fit the bar and dowel to the hole in the bull wheel. This will immobilise the mandrel without any excess sress being imposed on the teeth of the bull wheel or back-gear. The torque applied to the chuck will be transferred from the mandrel, via the woodruff key, to the bull wheel, thence to the dowel & bar and then to the head-stock casting.

It might be argued that drilling such a hole in the bull wheel would cause inbalance but I do not think this would be serious in an ML7.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Mark,

It all depends on what you regard as huge.

Have a browse on eBay, for instance:

eBay ML7 Bull Wheel

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Reviewing this thread, it seems to me that this important topic is being glossed over!!!!!!!!!!

My understanding is as follows: the collet should be engaged into the nut while both are OFF THE CHUCK.. Then fit the collet/nut combination onto the body of the chuck and then insert the tool and tighten the nut.

I await comment from others.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, all,

Working from memory here but offered in good faith:

I believe that 'Picador' pulleys are 'A'-section while 'Z' or 'M' section pulleys from the same stable were branded 'Pelican'.

I have several of each size but they're all in a box several layers down so I can't easily do a physical check!!!!

Sad that they're no longer trading.

One source of Vee-belt info in the old days was the Fenner literature. There was also a book by (I believe) 'Duplex' - I don't know if it is still in print.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Clive and group,

Many years ago, I drove an Alvis. I had a car repair mentor, 'Charlie', who had previously been an Alvis employee and had gone through the Alvis Chauffeur training school. He told me that during one lesson driving through (I think) Coventry, a young woman had crossed the road in front of them without looking. Charlie hit the anchors and received an admonition along the lines taught by your godfather regarding shaking up the rich guy in the back. In Charlie's case, however, his instructor added the rider: 'besides, never kill crumpet - it's wasteful'.

Not very 'woke' but it was a long time ago!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, all,

If you were making (for example ) Harold Hall's ER32 collet chuck to screw on to the ML7 or Super 7 mandrel, it would be useful to have such a facsimile of the mandrel nose to periodically check progress. That assumes that the facsimile is accurate.

It would avoid having to perodically unscrew the lathe chuck, complete with work-piece, and turn it around to try the job on to the actual lathe mandrel.  The same rationale applies to machining a chuck back-plate.

Of course, if one trusted one's skill and measuring equipment, one would machine the job by dead reckoning.

I prefer the facsimile.  One of the Myford ML7/Super 7 accessories is/was such a mandrel nose facsimile on an MT2 taper shank.  I have two but I've never clocked either of them to check their accuracy.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 31/05/2021 20:22:43

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 31/05/2021 20:23:54

Hi there, Peter,

If you ALWAYS type a space before any closing bracket, the emoji imp will stay asleep!

(This one not just for you) If you ALWAYS press the right arrow key a few times before typing your reply, the quote line will end where it should and not embrace your text too!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Howard,

With respect, I think you're mistaken about the weight of the motor - have a look at item 50 on the illustrated parts list for the Motorising Assembly on the Myford web-site.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Noonoo,

I believe that it's generally the case that if an insurance comopany pay out for a damaged item, that damaged item becomes their property?

I did once negotiate us out of such a situation (involving a 'dinged' motor car) but at the cost of a greatly reduced pay-out.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Howard,

I thought that was the idea?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

OK to electrolyse fresh water but I've got my doubts about sea water! I'm sure I've seen submarine movies where ingress of sea water into the battery produces chlorine!?!?!?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hopper,

I think the scans I just uploaded resolve your conjecture.

Edit:

Oops!!  Well, then again, maybe they don't!  After first posting this, I revisited the photos in page #1 of the thread.  The clutch actually fitted looks to be some 1466 parts and some original countershaft parts.  The remainder of #1466 could be lying within the belt guard on the floor.

Anyway, my uploads do show the 'official' Myford ML7 countershaft clutch, #1466 (not to be confused with either of the two versions of countershaft clutch for the Super 7) .

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 14/05/2021 11:11:27

Hi there, all,

I've just uploaded three scans of the Myford leaflet on the 1466 Countershaft Clutch - see my albums. As usual, the uploading process has rotated all three images to portrait. I apologise for the less than perfect quality of the images - they are photocopies of an A5 format document from the era before doublesided copying was available.

The modification data for the 'Guard Shield Plate' is shown on the second sheet. The instructional text is peculiar to this document: Myford Publication #714A, 'Supplement to ML7 Lathe Pictorial Parts List'. The parts list and exploded diagram content duplicates section P of the main ML7 User Manual.

I hope this helps.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Tom,

I'm working from memory here.

My ML7 didn't come with a countershaft clutch - I added the clutch myself. I seem to remember that the cast aluminium belt cover fits OK, it's the steel sheet inner part that fouls the clutch. That's a crescent shaped piece of steel sheet that attaches to the aluminium guard with three or four screws.

The clutch fitting instructions give a diagram specifying how much to cut away to restore clearance. It's a tin-snips job. I'll have a look through my archives later today and post whatever relevant info comes to the surface!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Leslie,

I believe that the 'A1' cast into the bed is the identity of the bed casting, not of the complete lathe.

Nowhere on my ML7 is there any identity label with the legend 'ML7'.

Perhaps Neil could commission an article explaining engineering drawing systems?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, Diane,

My condolences on your loss.

I appreciate that you would want to complete the disposal of your father's effects as quickly as possible. However, I would urge you not to dispose of anything until you are sure that you have compiled a complete inventory. The danger is that premature partial disposal risks the breaking up and dispersal of sets.

I was once called in to help in the disposal of a deceased person's lathe and accessories. The lathe was in one part of the house but the coolant tank and pump were in the cellar! I know from my own workshop that not all parts of some multi-part accessories are stored together so dispersal is a risk. I know where they are but what if my workshop disposal is put in the hands of a lay person?!?!

If you can list on here (with pictures) all the workshop-related items you can find, we can advise you what parts go with what so that eventual recipients don't get accessories that are incomplete.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there, again, all,

Both the 'pictorial view' and the air-brush drawing in my earlier post contain errors! The end of the operating lever must be allowed to move relative to the mandrel axis as the lever is operated. There should be a link between item #8 and the clevis bolt. It was/is a short length of flat-bar with a hole in each end.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Hi there,

Are we discussing this?:

Item #19 goes through the lugs on item #8 and through the eye on item #18. On early ML7s, the clevis bolt, item #18, screwed into the tapped hole in the clamp bracket, item #22,:

There's another picture of this clamp bracket in one of my albums.

The clamp bracket attached to the head-stock casting as shown here:

The clamp bracket attachment to the head-stock was a bit naff but I guess with care it could be made to work. Later on, Myford modified the head-stock casting to include a tapped hole to take the clevis bolt. (I'm afraid I can't find a picture of that. ) I believe the same tapped hole was/is used to support the chuck guard but it's either/or, not both.

Somewhere, I have a dimensioned drawing of the clevis bolt but I can't find it just now - I'll keep looking.

My apologies if I haven't used the same names for the parts as thos given in the items list!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 05/05/2021 13:42:45

Hi there, all,

What if the item to be blacked is an assembly of three parts, silver soldered together?

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

The mandrel of my Coronet Minor (mentioned in a recent thread) had a ¾" British conduit thread, 16 tpi, Whitworth form.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!