Member postings for Ed Duffner

Hi George,

Good job! I'd like to do something very similar on my WM16 and try to include some kind of relay or contactor drop out for when the motor stops unexpectedly. I don't think it's an issue for the motor to become warm under use although hot might be a concern, depends where we draw the warm/hot line.

I'm curious to understand how a two wire motor can be operated by a PWM control. I thought the motor had to have some sort of additional wiring to send EMF back to the electronics.

Does having a power feed also reduce back pain. I seem to get quite a lot of pain after a couple of hours of winding by hand setting up and winding again etc. I'm 6' 1"

Cheers,
Ed.

Hi Brian,

Here's a couple of links to German model kit web sites.

**LINK**

**LINK**

Ed.

I started a thread a while ago on this forum asking about vari-focals. I tried them for only a short time only to discover I just could not get on with them. After about 20 minutes of wearing them my eyes started streaming and I felt nauseous. The field of in-focus view was very narrow.

I now have two pairs of specs but it's still not ideal unfortunately. My distance specs focus down to about arms length and my 'hobby' specs are only good from almost arms length to about as close as 1ft. Any closer than this and I need to take off my glasses altogether for anything more precise.

Sat in the back garden enjoying a cuppa after fitting two fluorescent light fittings in the kitchen and thought I heard some Wright Cyclone engines. I wandered round the front of the house and saw a plane heading off north west toward the Bristol Channel and possibly Wales, maybe a B29 or similar, huge tail fin.

Hi Wolfie,

I'd use a height gauge or one of those magnetic block stands with a scriber or even a pencil attached to it. Set the height of the scriber to the radius of your cylinder, clamp your work piece to a flat surface and scribe your line around. It's the way I've done boot topping on model ships.

Hope this helps, all the best,
Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 20/06/2014 20:19:06

I'm afraid I'd have to politely decline, I don't do creatures! Winkles and cockles and all that stuff, anything that crawls. Is there a shortage of farm animals over there?

For my machines and wiping tools I now use Duck Oil, but a cheaper version of the Swarfega product. I tried using it for milling ally but it tends to smoke quite a bit.

I see what you mean about the thread length Jason. I wonder if the collet locking nut is unfortunately cracked?

Hi Jamie,

I'm relatively new to machining as well but have been doing quite a bit of milling recently. I have a slightly smaller machine, the Warco WM-16. I use ER25 collets on an MT2 chuck. (I think your machine would be a match to the Warco WM-18).

Things I would check if I were seeing this problem are :

- For a 20mm end mill the correct size collet would be the 20-19.

- Are you locating any part of a flat on the end mill in the entrance to the collet? (if it has a flat on the shank that is).

- Are you using two spanners to tighten your collet chuck?

- Are you locking the quill before taking a cut? My quill has about 0.8mm vertical backlash if I don't lock it and I've used the fine feed to move it down from its home position.

Pls excuse my input if these are obvious things you already checked.

Regards,
Ed.

Out of curiosity I just downloaded and installed Centre Cam on Windows 7 x64 and it appears to work with my web cam, Logitech Quickcam Sphere AF. It gave an error during installation about registering a DLL but I chose the "Ignore" button in the dialogue box.

Hi John, no boring bar, not much money at the moment. I want to eventually make a boring bar as per Harold Hall's design in the Milling Book. ...but I need a lathe to do it.

I managed to find an imperial slot drill in my Dad's stash of tooling so can continue today.

Thank you to whoever changed the title spelling, JasonB ?

Thank you Jason and Nobby, the lathe is out of action, this is part of it I'm rebuilding. I have two 125 x 100 x 20mm plates to make the faces, it'll be a bit like the Sieg headstock casting with pressed in taper-roller bearings but only the ends where the bearings are. The plates will be bolted to a base plate on the lathe.

Nobby, you have described what I'm trying to achieve very well. I was a bit coy on the first plate and left about 1.5mm in from the edge as I didn't want to get too close. I keep forgetting that 1.5mm is actually a very large distance in engineering terms I am doing something similar to CNC where they spiral the cut down about 0.2mm for each rotation, but manually in the first 15mm or so of each pass.

I will get a 2 flute slot drill to finish this job off. I am using the Warco WM-16 milling machine.

Here's the idea. The left plate is as clamped in the mill and the finished item on the right.

Thanks again,
Ed.

Thanks Thor, yeah I'm thinking about getting another cutter hence the question about which might be best for slot work. If it was a straight slot I'd probably go for a 2 flute slot drill, but I was unsure if a circular slot required a different approach.

Hi guys,

Title should have read Circular

I'm now making two off MS plates to house the bearings for my lathe headstock. The only method I have to achieve this is to clamp a plate to my rotary table and use and end mill to progress down to 16mm and almost out to full diameter. I then creep outward on the final interference diameter for the bearing outer. This creates a circular slot because the centre section is the only way I can bolt the plate to the RT.

The plates are 20mm thick and I'm cutting down to a shoulder 16mm deep for the bearing to pull in against.

I've done one plate already and my 8mm, 4 flute end mill is getting rather blunt. At the moment I don't have a cutter-grinder.

Being a relative beginner in machining I was wondering would this be better done using a 2 flute slot drill or roughing mill and finish with a 4 flute end mill?

Cheers,
Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 20/05/2014 18:35:05

My humble opinion; As long as the lamp is connected via wires and not through the body or stem of the lamp (as some low-voltage light fittings are) ...and as long as the lamp holder assembly can handle 240v, i.e. properly insulated, then I think it would be ok to convert to 240 if you can source a lamp.

I suppose I should add a disclaimer that if you do convert then it would be at your own risk etc.

Regards,
Ed (qualified electrician for 10 years, 15th edition reg's).

Looks like that plate is levitating. Are you building a model mono rail Graham?

After faffing around with a slitting saw and discovering the arbour wouldn't reach the cut, I hacksawed through 150mm x 20mm plate in preparation for my headstock bearing supports.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 11/05/2014 20:59:20

I took apart my old lawn mower the other day as it was getting old and not too good at doing what it was designed for. The main reason was to salvage the motor and anything else useable. After opening the body plastic, a lump of steel fell out with a very thin black oxide finish, ~ 180mm x 50mm x 20mm. This is now shaping up as a new top slide for my lathe.

Hi John,

When a spring and ball is in position does it completely push into a hole? I'm thinking you could maybe put all three springs and steel balls in position first and hold with fingers, then bring the collar over the top of them and squeeze in a vice if necessary. (You may have tried that already ) 

Cheers,
Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 08/05/2014 09:32:36

Hi Martin,

I had similar marks on MS and aluminium when I had movement in the spindle on a home made lathe. I was wondering though if you would get the same pattern if you take a cut with your compound slide?

...or whether the gearing on your saddle might be meshed too tightly with the rack causing a slight flexing as the teeth mesh along the rack?

Cheers,
Ed.