Here is a list of all the postings Michael Horner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Angular contact bearings 7201-2RS | |||||
17/06/2015 20:39:46 | |||||
Hi DJ. 7201 is the code for a single row angular contact bearing. The contact angle is only 15 degrees which might explain why it doesn't have dissimilar sizes. I have had a spanner recently marked up as 8mm when it was a 7mm. I believe the country of origin is U.A.E The invoice states they are angular contact. V8. Rang them at 16:30. He said he would have to ring technical! I was hoping Ketan had his ears on, he sells these but was out of stock. He supplied the middle bit which fits very well. The above links to a pdf. The picture of the bearing has the id to the front and if I understand angular contact bearings, that is the thurst side. So in my application Michael G the writing will be on the inside because the spindle will be appling the pre-load. Thanks for your replies. Ketan is probably looking for the £3 he owes JS
Cheers Michael.
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17/06/2015 19:20:27 | |||||
Thank you for the prompt replies guys and the optimism! The bearing on the left has the bearing id. (front, thrust side?) the right bearing is the rear view To my eyes apart from the bearing id they look the same. I don't want to disturb the seals because they will be working in a dusty enviroment. The od is 32mm. Cheers Michael.
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17/06/2015 18:32:01 | |||||
Hi I have just bought 2 Angular contact bearings 7201-2RS I can't seem to find any information on which face is the thrust face. I intend to use them as a pair so it is important they go the right way round. This variant has two rubber seals which I don't want to damage which makes a visual examination difficult. From the scant information I have found I think the side with the bearing identification on is the thrust face. So when I mount them in the spindle housing the the identificatons should face each other. Can anybody confirm theis? TIA Cheers Michael. | |||||
Thread: Mach 3 Question | |||||
15/06/2015 15:32:23 | |||||
Hi Richard Look up the G52 code and see if that is what you want. I think you have done some programing so shouldn't hurt your head too much. Gave me a headache Cheers Michael From wikipedia
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Thread: Warco WM 250V power feed stuck/crash | |||||
13/06/2015 21:41:10 | |||||
Posted by Matt Homer 1 on 13/06/2015 20:58:52:
Manager to gentley drill out some of the soft metal shear pin and tap the rest of it out. temporary measure ....cut off bit of allen key that fitted loosely and lead screw rotates now. All power feeds on carriage/crossslide seem to work ok now. As Mike suggested just need to turn down a piece of brass or plastic to slot back in and should be good to go. Bit of a weird thing going on with the thread dial indicator rotating when manually moving saddle but not when the half nut is engaged for power feed....would expect this or maybe its me still learning the ropes LOL Hi Matt, It's you still learning! When threading you use the dial to syncronise the position. It is so you can release the half nuts when threading and move the carrage back to the begining of the thread so you start cutting at the same position. Cheers Michael | |||||
Thread: New ideas for tool grinding in the workshop | |||||
08/06/2015 19:25:57 | |||||
Here is something I made from the junk box. I needed to touch up the cutting edge on a few tools. You can get 360 degrees on 3 axis. so should be able to get the angle you want, I think it can be improved upon time and brain power permitting. Cheers Michael | |||||
Thread: Problems with G-code etc. | |||||
10/05/2015 14:46:56 | |||||
Posted by Bob Rodgerson on 10/05/2015 14:21:36:
Hi Mick, you were right I am on a trial version, how can this be when I have downloaded the programme from a disc supplied by Tormach when I purchased the macine. More the point, the computer is not connected in any way to the internet so how do I go about getting a licence code? Hi Bob Have you got a licence file as part of your documentation? Mine looks like this "Mach1Lic.dat" and has to be in the Mach directory. I got mine directly from the Mach3 web site. It was sent by email then copied into the Mach directory. HTH Cheers Michael. | |||||
Thread: Lathe chuck indexing? | |||||
09/05/2015 07:59:55 | |||||
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 08/05/2015 22:49:23:
What was the problem with 45 and a double detent? Neil Is the double dentent the same as a forked detent? Cheers Michael | |||||
Thread: Parting Off MEW225 | |||||
28/02/2015 09:16:13 | |||||
Posted by Chris Trice on 27/02/2015 15:45:20:
I still think it's about the tool tipping forward into the work as the load on it suddenly takes it past the point it can shear the metal away which dramatically tilts it in even further into the work and it digs in. To return again to the toolholder in the article that started this thread off, if it works, we'll know, or at least be nearer a conclusion. Edited By Chris Trice on 27/02/2015 15:45:49 Hi Chris If the tool is on centre height how does the tip bite into more metal? If the tip is deflected down with a pivot point somewhere near the toolpost bolt it will be swinging out of the metal, which is how I envisage the swanneck tool to work. Cheers Michael. | |||||
Thread: Lathe Drive Centre. Drive Pins. | |||||
12/02/2015 18:10:13 | |||||
Hi Thanks for advice. ARC do some 3mm HSS for a few quid no messing with hardening and tempering. I am sure Chris Stephens said carbide will munch through HSS then just clean up with a diamond hone. That's what I was hoping for. Cheers Michael. | |||||
11/02/2015 13:59:37 | |||||
Hi The above link shows Frank Ford making a lathe drive centre for driving work held between centres without a drive dog. He uses 1/8" drill rod which he hardens and tempers. Would 3mm round tool steel be a suitable alterative? Cheers Michael | |||||
Thread: Weather Warning for Hobby Machines | |||||
20/01/2015 13:36:01 | |||||
I have a circa 15 year old Chester mini lathe from new. It has lived in an unheated concrete garage, unheated brick garage and is now living the life of luxury in a unheated integral garage. The motor control has worked fine, even abused it by fitting a 5" 3 jaw chuck. It plays up now and again by the motor still running slowly when it is turned off for a short while. I don't know if the controller is an american designed one but I think it has thyrister control as opposed to FET control. Not been in the electronicics box for a long time, went into tweek the pots for low speed torque etc. Just put this in for balance. In my job as service engineer have known smpsu costing more than a minilathe go bang. We were told it was paper dust, then brand new new machines were going pop, hmm. Cheers Michael. | |||||
Thread: Which chuck to buy for first lathe ? | |||||
07/12/2014 19:16:05 | |||||
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/12/2014 11:01:57:
Posted by Michael Horner on 07/12/2014 09:27:20:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/12/2014 04:14:43:
Posted by Brian John on 07/12/2014 02:54:29:
NOTE 1 : I have ruled out buying the 4 jaw independent chuck. . In that case, Brian ... The choice between 3-jaw and 4-jaw self centering chucks is fairly simple.
Yes, the 4-jaw will probably hold round material, but less reliably than the 3-jaw. ... holding most other sections will require some initiative. MichaelG. Hi Michael Why won't a 4 jaw chuck hold round material as well as a 3 jaw? I seem to rememeber that clever chap in the US who made the laser centering device for the mill spindle has a website, someone posted a link and I had a look. One of the things he said was that he preferred a 4 jaw independant over the 3 jaw indepandent because it would grip round, hex and square bar. Grey matter could be off, it's not doing very well at the moment Cheers Michael. . Michael, I think Neil has probably answered most of this on my behalf, but here goes ...
Now, translating all of this to the self-centering chuck question: The 4-jaw will grip round stock less reliably for the same reason that a four-legged chair might wobble on a floor [whereas the three-legged stool will never do so]. The independent 4-jaw is, of course, a different matter. And, by the way; the 3-jaw self-centering will grip any shape ... provided that it has constant cross section along the length ... it's just that the centre will be wherever it falls naturally. Hope that makes sense ... happy to discuss further, either here or by P.M. MichaelG. Hi MichaelG and Neil. Apologies to the OP. Dan Gelbart was the name of the US guy I was thinking of, this links you to one of his youtube videos. **LINK** About 3/4 of the way through he talks about using a self centering 4 jaw chuck. He has a bit of an accent so I may have miss heard him. Hearing gone south as well I think I hear him say 4 jaw independant is a boon for R&D and precision work. I shall cross him off my christmas card list and thanks for saving me £80 Mind you his lathe probably cost more than my house Cheers Michael
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07/12/2014 09:27:20 | |||||
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/12/2014 04:14:43:
Posted by Brian John on 07/12/2014 02:54:29:
NOTE 1 : I have ruled out buying the 4 jaw independent chuck. . In that case, Brian ... The choice between 3-jaw and 4-jaw self centering chucks is fairly simple.
Yes, the 4-jaw will probably hold round material, but less reliably than the 3-jaw. ... holding most other sections will require some initiative. MichaelG. Hi Michael Why won't a 4 jaw chuck hold round material as well as a 3 jaw? I seem to rememeber that clever chap in the US who made the laser centering device for the mill spindle has a website, someone posted a link and I had a look. One of the things he said was that he preferred a 4 jaw independant over the 3 jaw indepandent because it would grip round, hex and square bar. Grey matter could be off, it's not doing very well at the moment Cheers Michael. | |||||
Thread: What did you do today? (2014) | |||||
30/11/2014 00:00:17 | |||||
Fitted my replacement PSU for my CNC PC and it all worked. Marvelous. To prove it wasn't a fluke I machined some parts for work! Cheers Michael. | |||||
Thread: Magic Smoke | |||||
22/11/2014 18:05:12 | |||||
I have removed the cap and when I put a meter across the holes it was low ohms and a diode looks like it's the same. To buy a cap it's about £5 so I have just bought a second hand psu for £7! Neil.I know what you mean about electrolitics. I put a low voltage one in a higher voltage circuit. It nearly took my finger off. Lots of confetti though. Cheers Michael | |||||
22/11/2014 14:40:29 | |||||
This is the cap that's gone. I have some old psu's but they seem to use 2 caps in series at 200v each. I have found one on ebay so will order one up. I will check the bridge rectifier to make sure that it hasn't gone short because that would have put AC across the cap which I don't think it would like. Thanks for your input guys. Cheers Michael,
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22/11/2014 12:17:51 | |||||
Hi The magic smoke has escaped from my CNC PC. It looks like it's the 400 volt input capacitor that holds the circa 300 volts DC before it gets chopped up into the 5 and 12 volts. What are the chances it is just the cap has gone? The PC will be around the 10 year old mark. The HDD is on a parallel bus and not SATA. I would like to keep it because it runs Mach3 and don't want issues trying to run it on later OS's. TIA Cheers Michael. | |||||
Thread: Where to start? | |||||
16/11/2014 11:08:00 | |||||
This bit you have to read: I tried to bounce ideas and facts off my OH explaining all the above arguments etc. Her attitude was 'well how much is all this going to cost?'. I told her i was working on around a £6K budget overall and over time. Her answer? "Well make it £8K and don't mess about 'cos i want my bath".
You lucky man | |||||
Thread: Diamond tool holder.?? | |||||
08/11/2014 20:45:40 | |||||
Hi Nick Have a go at building the Michael Cox one. I use mine for ruffing and finishing cuts. HTH Cheers Michael. |
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