Member postings for Michael Horner

Hi

DJ. 7201 is the code for a single row angular contact bearing. The contact angle is only 15 degrees which might explain why it doesn't have dissimilar sizes. I have had a spanner recently marked up as 8mm when it was a 7mm.

I believe the country of origin is U.A.E The invoice states they are angular contact.

V8. Rang them at 16:30. He said he would have to ring technical!

I was hoping Ketan had his ears on, he sells these but was out of stock. He supplied the middle bit which fits very well.

**LINK**

The above links to a pdf. The picture of the bearing has the id to the front and if I understand angular contact bearings, that is the thurst side.

So in my application Michael G the writing will be on the inside because the spindle will be appling the pre-load.

Thanks for your replies.

Ketan is probably looking for the £3 he owes JS

Cheers Michael.

Thank you for the prompt replies guys and the optimism!

The bearing on the left has the bearing id. (front, thrust side?) the right bearing is the rear view

To my eyes apart from the bearing id they look the same. I don't want to disturb the seals because they will be working in a dusty enviroment.

The od is 32mm.

Cheers Michael.

Hi

I have just bought 2 Angular contact bearings 7201-2RS

I can't seem to find any information on which face is the thrust face.

I intend to use them as a pair so it is important they go the right way round.

This variant has two rubber seals which I don't want to damage which makes a visual examination difficult.

From the scant information I have found I think the side with the bearing identification on is the thrust face. So when I mount them in the spindle housing the the identificatons should face each other.

Can anybody confirm theis?

TIA

Cheers Michael.

Hi Richard

Look up the G52 code and see if that is what you want.

I think you have done some programing so shouldn't hurt your head too much. Gave me a headache

Cheers Michael

From wikipedia

Hi Matt,

It's you still learning!

When threading you use the dial to syncronise the position. It is so you can release the half nuts when threading and move the carrage back to the begining of the thread so you start cutting at the same position.

Cheers Michael

Here is something I made from the junk box. I needed to touch up the cutting edge on a few tools. You can get 360 degrees on 3 axis. so should be able to get the angle you want, I think it can be improved upon time and brain power permitting.

Cheers Michael

Hi Bob

Have you got a licence file as part of your documentation?

Mine looks like this "Mach1Lic.dat" and has to be in the Mach directory. I got mine directly from the Mach3 web site. It was sent by email then copied into the Mach directory.

HTH

Cheers Michael.

Is the double dentent the same as a forked detent?

Cheers Michael

Hi Chris

If the tool is on centre height how does the tip bite into more metal? If the tip is deflected down with a pivot point somewhere near the toolpost bolt it will be swinging out of the metal, which is how I envisage the swanneck tool to work.

Cheers Michael.

Hi

Thanks for advice.

ARC do some 3mm HSS for a few quid no messing with hardening and tempering.

I am sure Chris Stephens said carbide will munch through HSS then just clean up with a diamond hone.

That's what I was hoping for.

Cheers Michael.

**LINK**

Hi

The above link shows Frank Ford making a lathe drive centre for driving work held between centres without a drive dog.

He uses 1/8" drill rod which he hardens and tempers.

Would 3mm round tool steel be a suitable alterative?

Cheers Michael

I have a circa 15 year old Chester mini lathe from new. It has lived in an unheated concrete garage, unheated brick garage and is now living the life of luxury in a unheated integral garage. The motor control has worked fine, even abused it by fitting a 5" 3 jaw chuck. It plays up now and again by the motor still running slowly when it is turned off for a short while.

I don't know if the controller is an american designed one but I think it has thyrister control as opposed to FET control. Not been in the electronicics box for a long time, went into tweek the pots for low speed torque etc.

Just put this in for balance.

In my job as service engineer have known smpsu costing more than a minilathe go bang. We were told it was paper dust, then brand new new machines were going pop, hmm.

Cheers Michael.

Hi MichaelG and Neil. Apologies to the OP.

Dan Gelbart was the name of the US guy I was thinking of, this links you to one of his youtube videos. **LINK**

About 3/4 of the way through he talks about using a self centering 4 jaw chuck. He has a bit of an accent so I may have miss heard him. Hearing gone south as well

I think I hear him say 4 jaw independant is a boon for R&D and precision work.

I shall cross him off my christmas card list and thanks for saving me £80

Mind you his lathe probably cost more than my house

Cheers Michael

Hi Michael

Why won't a 4 jaw chuck hold round material as well as a 3 jaw?

I seem to rememeber that clever chap in the US who made the laser centering device for the mill spindle has a website, someone posted a link and I had a look. One of the things he said was that he preferred a 4 jaw independant over the 3 jaw indepandent because it would grip round, hex and square bar.

Grey matter could be off, it's not doing very well at the moment

Cheers Michael.

Fitted my replacement PSU for my CNC PC and it all worked. Marvelous.

To prove it wasn't a fluke I machined some parts for work!

Cheers Michael.

I have removed the cap and when I put a meter across the holes it was low ohms and a diode looks like it's the same. To buy a cap it's about £5 so I have just bought a second hand psu for £7!

Neil.I know what you mean about electrolitics. I put a low voltage one in a higher voltage circuit. It nearly took my finger off. Lots of confetti though.

Cheers Michael

This is the cap that's gone. I have some old psu's but they seem to use 2 caps in series at 200v each. I have found one on ebay so will order one up. I will check the bridge rectifier to make sure that it hasn't gone short because that would have put AC across the cap which I don't think it would like. Thanks for your input guys.

Cheers Michael,

Hi

The magic smoke has escaped from my CNC PC. It looks like it's the 400 volt input capacitor that holds the circa 300 volts DC before it gets chopped up into the 5 and 12 volts.

What are the chances it is just the cap has gone? The PC will be around the 10 year old mark. The HDD is on a parallel bus and not SATA. I would like to keep it because it runs Mach3 and don't want issues trying to run it on later OS's.

TIA

Cheers Michael.

You lucky man

Hi Nick

Have a go at building the Michael Cox one.

I use mine for ruffing and finishing cuts.

HTH

Cheers Michael.