Member postings for Clive Hartland

Jim, if its a barn then the heat rises to the roof ! You need one of these long tubes that hang down from the roof that have a sucking fan at the top. This will draw down the heat and expel it across the floor so it is continually recycled.

They are available commercially and take very little fitting.

Clive

Jason, I think if a person used one in a Bank raid then they would be a problem !

It is where there is intent and the fact that a 'Firearm' has been worked and modified for that purpose. There was a situation where someone made a plastic gun with 2 shot capability and it was taken on an airplane and was only found by baggage inspection.

Also these 'Phone' guns that come from eastern Europe, not easy to discover except by expert inspection.

Clive

I have seen Ergonomic stools that are the other way round and you straddle them as you would on a horse and you support yourself with your legs/feet under a bar. they were quite common where I worked with at least three people using them all day !

One chap I know had spinal impact from being on a boat for some time and having been bounced about which squashed the pads in his spine around L4 and L5 vertebra. He found these seats beneficial.

Clive

;A 'Click' and no 'Bang', just a twang!

Looked down the bore and could see the ball,

A poke and a push and there was a, 'Whoosh' and he was there no more!

Dont do it, even a ball bearing jammed to the far end will still appear as a viable weapon.

Step drill the bore in short steps of different dia. so that any attempt to load and fire will fail.

Even then, push an over size ball bearing into the muzzle, and it will not be able to be loaded.

Under the barrel at the breech end drill a hole so that it cannot be seen, the same size as the bore.

Then it is obvious to any person who needs to know that it cannot be fired.

Regards making a model of a modern artillery piece, there are some very good books with detailed drawings of 18 Pounders used in the 1st world war and also some drawings of a 25 Pounder. I think the Authors name is, 'Hogg' who is qiuite an authority on Artillery pieces.

Clive

LB4, leaded Bronze with a high tin content. I think that the 300mm length initially at the price plus carriage that Clive has mentioned should be a reasonable bargain.

Clive

You havent said which type of tool post you have on the ML10? If it is the standard cantilever bar with the levelling screw then any tool you can get center hieght will do.

The original tool set was with a 'Boattail' leveling block and the tools had a cutaway iether side to fit it and you just slid the tool forwards and backwards on the boattail to get it level.

10mm tools will work fine and I suggest a mixture of tools with HSS and tipped tools for the task you take on. You have a top speed of 2000rpm I think? so tipped tooling will work fine.

Cutting with tipped tools needs a speed increase of some 150% over HSS.

Enjoy your ML10 and Milling attachment, you did well there!

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 05/12/2012 10:51:27

Ah, wait till it gets delivered and all you get is the piece of paper saying, 'You can collect from the Royal mail Office after 24hrs ' so you end up collecting a paid parcel !

I even caught the postman walking up the path with the piece of card in his hand already made out, they are on a death wish!

Clive

Just google' 'Cannon plans' its all there from killing deer at 300 yards with 1" dia lead balls, like a big shotgun to full diagrams of DIY cannon.

Several articles about cannons of various era's and what they look like.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 03/12/2012 19:48:33

Without doubt the question of rigidity of the vertical slide on the ML10 versus the WM14 is paramount.

You cannot expect the vertical slide to be as rigid as the Mill ! Fact. Even small cuts with small endmills cause deviation and chatter and the matter of squareness is there as well. With this is the fact that the highest speed (Rpm) on the ML10 is about 820.

The 'Envelope' of the operating range of the Vertical slide is rather restricted and you can run out of room very quickly whereas the mill will have approx 150 x 500 with greater head depth.

Lots of people use the Vertical slide quite happily as they have no other recourse having only the one machine. But, it maybe OK for boreing a larger hole in a part or minor slotting but nothing big.

Clive

Siddley, does the name Len Bull ring any bells with you? A very good friend of mine who I last heard of in Denver in the US. A full time GunSmith and like you seems to be able to turn his hand to anything. In fact his latest is to make 2/3 scale WW1 airplanes. The last one was Fiesler Storch, a bit more modern. Unfortunately I have not had contact with him for a while.

He was good at re-barreling Winchester underlevers to more modern low pressure calibres. he also made replica Black Powder pistols and always put, 'Fecit. L G Bull' around the muzzle of his guns.

Clive

Silica Gel, unless used in a SEALED container is no more use than a wet bun ! Leaving the silica gel in the open air just means it is sucking up moisture until it is saturated and no longer any use.

It is normally used in a closed environment and this means sealed in with the object which it is being asked to preserve. Used in long term storage of delicate instruments and optical equipment.

Further to this is that a sealed containment filled with Nitrogen would be a better condition as it is inert and nothing can live in it.

Revival of silica gel means a long cook up in an oven and sometimes the silica gel has a marker colour added to tell when it is dry or saturated. Then storage of the silica gel in a sealed container makes it usefull for removal of moisture from items placed in with it.

Using it as a general moisture/water reducing agent in the open air totally defeats the purpose of the silica gel.

I have this problem of wood dust when I work my saw bench and mitigate the effects by covering each machine with one of the plastic sheets you can buy from B & Q for decorating purposes, they are light and large and fold small when not needed.

Make sure you take it outside to shake it out as the dust will just settle back if you dont.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 01/12/2012 12:11:15

IKEA have a 'Guest' purchase box for one offs, just log into that and a way you go!

Clive

A good light box can be made with crumpled up kitchen foil attached to all the inside surfaces of a large cardboard box.

If the object has a lot of shiny surfaces then place it in a cold fridge for a while and it will be less shiny when you take it out because of condensation ( Good for silver or plated objects) not precision machinery of course.

Outside, a muslin covered frame will filter the light and remove extreme dazzle points.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 27/11/2012 20:46:22

Starting a Traction Engine without a book could lead to a, 'Tomb' in the end. I doubt if any one could ever get everything about making steam engines into a comprehensive Tome, I think if they did it would be very expensive !

Clive

A couple of thicknesses of clean cloth between the oil gun and the nipple seem to stop the oil going everywhere with mine on the ML10 countershaft.

The headstock bearings I grease with Lithium grease (Castrol) and of late I have been using a PTFE spary on the slides with no ill effects.

Regards the leaking cap on the oil gun, a tight fitting leather washer has stopped mine from leaking. Very simple to cut and fit, you could even make a sharp edged punch to do it !

Clive

Try Googling 3 Phase connectors and you will see socket and plug for about £15. 00

single plugs about £9.00, perfectly adequate for what you want Frank.

Clive

I think you may be considering a high flow rate from the oiler but in fact as long as there is an oil flow going down into the bearing that will be fine.

Too much oil flow will only be flung out of the bearing and make a mess. The oil 'Wedge' in the bearing will mantain itself as long as there is a small replenishment while it is running.

As to the capillary action I can only think it is between the wall of the tube and the wire and the hook part establishes it. I remember it was a parallel bend and not angled out at all.

This may be a case of suck it and see ! I would hate to work on a machine that was throwing out globs of dirty oil all over my shirt and then explain to wifey how to get black oil stains out.

Clive

No Andy, it was just a bit of standard wire and as I said it had a hook end that dipped into the oilpot and the longer length down the hole, it all seemed to work Ok as far as I couild see as I used it for at least 3 years.

Clive

I have used lathes that had wick oilers but did not use wool as a wick, they had a wire with a hook on the end that hung over the lip of the hole and allowed the oil to capillary down to the bearing. The hook end dipped down into the oil.

They lasted all day and I only filled first thing in the morning.

Clive

It is typical of Legislation that the paper mountain has more clout than the actual object, it seems that all this is to make it as hard as possible for anyone to make and use a steam or air pressure vessels as possible to the point of extinction, just like the Dinosaurs !

When I started my Loco, the boiler offered was £320 but now its £1400 and a years wait, was that the whole point of this legislation?

I went through the Din 9000 Accreditation at the firm I worked for and it was costing £2000 + a day just to essay words in a folder detailing procedures that were procededures we had carried out for years.

As to listing the materials and points of origin for the making of a boiler, try backtrackig and see how far you get.

Clive