Member postings for john kennedy 1

Bill, I did the same and broke a tap in one of the cross beams By the time you've finished messing about, it's easier to scrap it and start again. John

Hi Bill. Got my bearings from here **LINK** although I did mine in metric. The springs I got from the show at Harrogate.Bought a length to cut up...Sorry can't remember which stand it was from. John

I like that,must get round to making one. John

Michael, I got a piece of crobalt with the one I bought from Eccentric Engineering. It was ok but I had to keep sharpening it to keep the edge. Ive now got a piece of 4" HSS which I cut in two.It seems the same to me. I've seen,on ebay I think 5 pieces of 4" for £12 ish. thats 10 pieces. Doubt whether Crobalt is 10 timesbetter ? John

Edited By john kennedy 1 on 14/07/2013 18:28:05

Just an update, due to your help I managed to cut the thread on my wm250. The nut fits very well with no shake. Set the topslide over to the 60 deg mark and fed that in 1.2mm. Its for the retaining nut on a new leadscrew I'm fitting to my Harrison milling machine. You'll notice I'm using a Diamond tool holder that comes with a jig to grind the tool to 6o deg. Thought it was a bit of a gimmick at first but if you set the jig screw at the correct angle (trial and error) it comes out great. Thanks again for your help. John

Thanks again Jason,you make it look so easy. I got it set up last night 30-80 70-60 but didn't have time to do the test piece. Will update. John

Thanks Jason for taking the trouble to do a diagram.I can get my head round it now and try the gears shown in both tables. I'll do a test piece first and check with a gauge. By the way mine is a metric lathe with a 3mm leadscrew.

Steve, is there a formula to check I'll eventually have the correct gears? ... John

Hi everyone, I've had my WM250 lathe for about 3 1/2 years and up to now its served me well. I've come to stage where I need to cut a 12mm thread with a 1.75mm pitch. I've got to admit that I'm baffled by the thread table on the gear cover and also the manual. (which conflict on the gear sizes given) I can't work out what H & L mean (headstock & leadscrew perhaps?) Also it only shows 4 gears in the train, Z1 being represented by H, unlike 5 gears in the slow feed train. Also do the dotted lines in the manual or the small marks on the gear cover plate represent gears in mesh or gears on the same quadrant bolt??? Would someone please explain how I can arrive at the correct train. Thanks, John.

Oops **LINK**

Dave, this is what you need,a bit pricey though.Or braze a tip on yourself if you have the means.

I have used them in my previous life and wouldn't have gone back to anything else. John

Steve, can you please elaborate on this. I have 2 Autolocks and I am labouring under this misconception,I allways leave a small gap,believing that if the nut 'bottoms' the collet wont close.Everything runs true though..John

I hope there isn't an issue because I've made mine out of steel. People go to the trouble of putting steel tyres on iron wheels,so must be better wearing .

Quote " The cost of travel for the punters can be offset a bit by being able to save on postage, especially considering the weight of our kind of purchases."

Not so I'm afraid. The big trader there refused to knock the postage cost off a chuck and set of collets. The price was the same as off the net. I pointed this out but he wouldn't budge.I did'nt buy them. Might as well let someone else bring them to my door for me.

Other than that it was a good show but dont think I'll go again...John

I'm a Radio 4 man .... Will Matt catch Lillian out ?

You know what you could do - extend the roof out the front a bit

David , I used to have a Henry Milnes so I know how heavy they are. Now have a Harrison,which is a bit lighter. The leadscrews are very worn now and I'm going to have to replace them and new nuts.

The X axis traverse is driven by a separate motor which,through gearing,turns the nut while the screw is locked. ... I 'm not sure if that can be replaced so thought of ballscrew and nut with a stepper motor to drive it ??? Sort of CNC in stages.

Everyone seems quite shy when it comes to motor sizes. Can you tell me what size you used ?

some pics would be nice, Thanks, John

Windy, I remember reading about that process on here. **LINK**

Try doing a search. John

I think its well worth £900.If I didn't have a lathe I'd round there like a shot to have a look at it.

Hi Bill, As far as I know there are 3 of us building one, 2 of them in Canada. There must be more.?

I found a slight drawing error which might assist.

**LINK**

Hobbynut has got on really well and is waiting for latest edition to carry on.

Do a search on here you'll find some more info and photos.

The fabricated cylinder drawings do take a bit of 'getting' but keep looking,it'l come.

I'm doing solid cylinders carved out of cast iron,.. because I was given it.

Lovely engine,quite simple up to now, so have a go.

John

Iv'e used 6ba countersunk screws to attach the weights.Will probably put some filler over them.