Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Lost Article |
09/05/2020 10:50:25 |
Not sure if this is what you wanted. Issue 245 Marcus Bowman made a locking wheel nut using CNC
Adrian |
Thread: Machine handles |
09/05/2020 08:04:29 |
Oh just found this page 4 https://hyquip.co.uk/module/filecatalogue/download?file=4659 I cant find them listed on hyquip.co.uk but worth a call now you have a part number. |
09/05/2020 07:48:42 |
Not a complete answer, you can get revolving handles here **LINK** Another name for the handles is Tri ball crank handles Adrian |
Thread: taper roller headstock adjustment |
08/05/2020 17:53:45 |
In the manual it has a section on how to adjust the bearing preload **LINK** Adrian |
Thread: Which wire goes where. |
08/05/2020 08:52:07 |
If you look close at this **LINK** The capacitor is across the red/brown and the mains would be on the brow/blue From the name plate you need a 5uF capacitor like this **LINK** I cant quite see the wire ends, but they look like they have spade ends, if so you may be able to get a capacitor with the same size terminals. Adrian |
Thread: How to store boiled linseed oil so that you can re-open the bottle at a later date |
08/05/2020 07:08:27 |
Glass bottles with real corks are still available, you just have to drink the contents first. For some reason I find single malt bottles the most satisfying to use. Adrian |
07/05/2020 20:57:57 |
How about something like a Grolsch bottle or kilner jar?
Adrian |
Thread: College Engineering Supplies rotary table |
07/05/2020 18:56:09 |
You are lucky, I have wanted to build one for years, such a shame CES don't sell castings anymore. FYI Harold Hall describes how to make it in MEW 101/102 Adrian
Edited By AdrianR on 07/05/2020 18:56:33 |
Thread: Antique Steam Engine from Doorknob |
07/05/2020 08:36:24 |
The Repair Shop on BBC could be a good place to take it. |
Thread: Air supply to test run steam engine. |
07/05/2020 07:32:15 |
Yes Jason is right. I only ran a 1/2" bore engine so the compressor hardly ran. If I am using a lot of air then I do get a bit worried about the duty cycle on the motor, it gets quite warm. OK for an air nailer or duster, not much use for spray guns etc. |
Thread: Help identify this timber |
07/05/2020 07:23:37 |
Im no expert, just looked into this when needing a post and rail fence built. The trouble is there are different grades of treatment, from suitable for dry indoors (UC1) to in ground contact (UC4). If that is a fence then it should be UC3.2. I am a bit surprised that is C24, it is a better type of construction wood, bit of overkill for a fence. I would hazard a guess that it i only been treated for indoors (UC1 or UC2) Adrian |
Thread: Air supply to test run steam engine. |
06/05/2020 19:50:10 |
I have a Bostich 6L A bit pricey to just run a model engine, but I got it for air nailers and now mostly use it for air dusting. I think compressed air in the workshop is very useful. Stanley does a similar one and I expect there are plenty of other oil less compressors out there. I did use it on my engine, the regulator goes right from 7bar down to 0, and I ran my engine at 5psi easily.
Adrian |
Thread: Buying a small mill |
06/05/2020 17:58:24 |
Re: tapping, in issue 292 there was Grahams Meek's tapping tool. This inspired me, I had a spare long reach tap wrench. Hacksaw the toggle off, and made a knurled knob. I loosely guide it with the chuck and turn the tap by hand. As Graham mentioned in the article, there is the risk of dropping the tool out of the chuck and breaking the tap, but using a tap holder with a point to guide it, or the lack of feeling when using the mill chuck is equally prone to problems. So far I have used it from 8BA into blind holes to 8mm in steel, and it has been a great boon. Re Mill, I have a round column mill with a guide strip, the alignment is not great, but it is not an Emco. I last Thursday I ordered a SIEG SX3 from ARC, it is being delivered tomorrow. It was hard to choose between the SX2.7L and the SX3, in the end the adage buy the biggest you can afford won. An extra 60KG of iron has to be a good thing. I chose ARC due to the good reviews and personal experience of both the support and quality of the items. SIEG as a brand seem to be popular at the moment. Also I have seen it being sold by other quality suppliers here in the UK and in the US. Adrian
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Thread: New Yorkshireman member |
06/05/2020 08:21:54 |
Hi Oli, You can download the manual from Chester This is the product page **LINK** This is the download link from that page **LINK** For some reason the Crusader manual comes up as the Deluxe. It could be worth doing some googling to see if Grizzly sold the same lathe. I have a Warco version of the Chester Craftsman and the Grizzly manual is much better. Adrian |
Thread: Bayonetes |
05/05/2020 16:22:02 |
There are enough sharp pointy things about already for idiots, I would see if military shop is interested. |
Thread: New hobby lathe for retired engineer? |
05/05/2020 09:14:17 |
A bit over your budget, but there is an ex-demo Chester DB10 that may be big enough for you **LINK** |
Thread: Lathe 3-jaw chuck |
04/05/2020 16:32:43 |
If you fancy a challenge Howard Hall has a page about making Soft Jaws It nicely explains how to cut the teeth. Knowing how to measure the scroll and teeth could be useful for identifying ready made jaws too.
Adrian |
Thread: Which Mill |
04/05/2020 14:53:08 |
Hi Roger, At the top of the page, in the green bar, there is Inbox, click on that then compose new message. Then enter Ketan Swali. I bought a machine-dro universal kit, quick delivery, it arrived next day. I have seen others using them and they seem to be OK, but I am no expert.
Adrian |
04/05/2020 13:01:43 |
Roger, My advise would be to drop Ketan a PM, explain what you make and ask his advise. He knows the machines and I would say is honest enough to not up sell you. Hobby use vs Light industrial is really just how many hours it will used and how hard it will used. If you are like me, you look after your tools and try not to break them. I will probably use my mill 100 - 200 hrs/yr. Whereas in an industrial setting there are deadlines and people of varying attitude towards tools. So machines get worked hard and possibly abused. An industrial mill would probably run 1000 - 2000 hrs/yr. So a mill that would last 1 - 2 years in industrial use could last me 10 - 20 years. Adrian |
04/05/2020 08:21:29 |
Not really answering your question. I have just gone through the process of trying to decide which mill to get. I decided against Warco WM16/18 and Chester Champion 20v due to lack of stock and not being able to find any information about how well they perform. The reports of after sales support for Warco and Chester seem to be mixed where as ARC has very positive comments. Plus Ketan posts here and comes across as honest and straight talking. My short list came down to the SX2.7L and SX3. What really sold me on the SX2.7 was JasonB's videos on youtube (search in youtube for mrjasonsb) He has put up some videos to support the MEW article Milling for beginners, also has done a couple where he has pushed the mill. Being able to see and hear it working really removed my fears about buying a lemon. I was all ready to place the SX2.7L order when my wife convinced me to spend the extra £300 to get the SX3.
Adrian |
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