Member postings for Phil P

If I had to hazard a guess, I would say the first number is the outside diameter in millimetres and the second is the number of teeth.

In which case you have cutters for very approximately the following sizes

1 mod (24DP), 0.7 mod (36DP) & 0.62 mod (40DP)

I agree Cycloidal gears will not be any good for an engine.

Phil

Dont forget that you will have to keep the leadscrew nut engaged until the thread is finished.

You will not be able to pick up the thread with the leadscrew dial.

That is unless you have already made the Graham Meek screwcutting dog clutch, and this sort of job turns form being a real chore into a doddle.

(Another quick plug for Gray's design)

Phil

I wonder how many new laws that originated in the UK have been adopted in the rest of Europe.

Not many I suspect.

I have just been reading some disturbing stuff on another forum about vintage vehicles, that would render thousands of old motors worthless over night if it came into force.

**LINK**

Phil

I wonder if they are unleaded, will they go "green" !

Phil

I have one of these :-

**LINK**

And can say it is a superbly made bit of kit, my only gripe is its physical size.

The one you are looking at would be a better bet if space is limited under the machine spindle.

Phil

I have a comercially made French three train wall clock from the 1930's that has aluminium plates and gear wheels along with the spring barrel as well.

The pinions are steel as per a normal brass wheeled clock, it still runs OK so obviously the use of aluminium is not as new as you might think.

Here's another one for you to think about. Have you decided to use cycloidal or involute teeth ?

I know of one local company (Sinclair Harding) that currently produces some remarkable clocks using involute gears, but there are also many people who will also tell you that they will never work in a clock.

Phil

Yuur idea of loctiting an extension sounds OK, but I would leave it over size on its OD and machine it to size as a last operation.

Loctite 601 is what I have used for years, and its never failed me yet.

Phil

Blasting will only remove material if you use an abrasive blast media. If you use the correct type of media you can clean the surface without causing any damage to it.

How do I know this ?........I have been designing automatic blast machines for the last 23 years.

I do agree that you do need to make sure ALL traces of media and dust are removed afterwards, and Ultrasonic cleaning is the way to go, (I design those too).

I am very lucky in that I have access to all our test machines at work, and have just blasted and utrasonically cleaned almost every component on a motorbike I am restoring.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 07/01/2012 14:57:46

Edited By Phil P on 24/12/2011 19:02:29

Edited By Phil P on 21/12/2011 22:58:24

Edited By David Clark 1 on 12/12/2011 11:04:14