Member postings for mechman48

Thoroughly concur with SOD. I take off my wedding ring, never wear ties in the man cave, watch off, have my warehouse coat sleeves rolled up as far as possible with cuffs out of the way but with the warm weather lately not even wearing that only shorts or T shirt & jeans at the moment. I use barrier cream ( Mach. Mart own brand, usual disclaimer ) & only use nitrile/latex gloves when machining cast iron or cleaning down & last but not least trainers with steel toe caps.

George.

Went around the bungalow hosing down & washing all the windows, doors, guttering, down comers, garage door, car. I think that put SWMBO in a lighter mood

George.

As mentioned above in the process of making a wedge type machinist jack for future use from drawings linked to by 'Double boost' ( thanks John )... with slight variation on design

the original wedge sits 3mm above base block in fully down position...

2nd wedge sits 6 mm higher

Still have the retaining slot to do .. maybe?

George.

Last couple of days really; my 'X' axis drive went 'pop' & stopped, wondering what happened had me thinking ( doh my brain 'urts   as all was working ok last time in use, I did a bit of deducing, I was cutting a deep slot in a wedge jack body starting with 12 mm hogging cutter followed up by a 1/2" 4 tooth end mill 0.5 mm doc which shouldn't have been a problem,when the drive unit 'popped' & magic smoke appeared,obviously the PWM unit.

Having a spare PWM ( had bought 2 initially ) I changed it out switched on & all ok I had disconnected the mill lead screw initially as was thinking maybe it had gone tight as it obviously overloaded the PWM amps but it was free enough.Checking again I found that the 'X' axis lock handles had somehow been 'just' nipped up ... voila.. cause& effect!. looking at the defunct PWM i noticed what I assume to be a capacitor; ( not being elektrikery aux faix I googled it & came up with it being a 'capacitor' ) had 'popped its barrel', the in line fuse was fine so why the capacitor & not the fuse..??. So all is well .

George.

I've used both school chalk & French chalk, both seem to work well.

George.

Star wheel ( Huntingdon ) dresser for bench grinder, some are mounted in long handles for use on floor mounted grinders.. see..

**LINK**

George.

Nigel beat me to it..

+ 1 ... I would agree that stop as made is a bit too slender. The principle is very good and I am only surprised such stops are not more common. It does though, need to be very rigid and positive.

The bracket could be made far more rigid by welding or brazing a triangular gusset across both ends to make a Vee-box form, rather as many angle-plates are cast ...

George.

+1 for all comments above. I have 4 parting off blades set up, 3mm HSS 'T' shape, - 2mm carbide insert, & a 1.3mm HSS small blade hand ground for small tiny stuff or grooves & finally a rear tool post set up with 2mm HSS blade which I prefer to use for large diameter material ( Hemingway kit ), all work well under hand / power feed. Have a look in my album ' Rear parting tool post' if you're interested in the post & set up.

George.

Try:-

ANF ( 60* ) #10 = 32TPI

2 BA = 4.0 mm / 0.1575

George.

Have a look on 'Doubleboost' channel; he has a couple of videos where he is testing the R-Tech tig welder system.

George.

I too have various sets of needle / diamond files from one source or another, all do the job I want them to do, some I've had for years ( blue / black wallet ) & still cut nicely. In your case I would suggest you go for the Vallorbe as they are considered the best of files.

George.

... 'the backlash in the lead screws is terrible even after adjustment.'..

I think you've answered your own question...

George.

A bit more on my beam engine, cylinder components assembled & tried for fit...

The blue colour is just the plastic covering on the aluminium plate which will peel off once I get to cleaning & painting stage.

George.

Super intricate work Rod. Like Howard's comment; I have hands that compare well with shovels & fingers that resemble stub drills..

George.

... Pete, thanks for the pulley offer but it won't work as the ratio of pulleys needs to be the same as my old one to use all 5 speeds..

Does it need to be exactly the same size. I would've surmised that a pulley set up that gives you +/- 50 rpm would suffice for most drilling ops in most materials?

George.

Very tidy piece of work.

George.

Hi Gaunless

In simple terms it's what you want to pay for it. what needs to be checked on any drill vice is for jaw lift, lead screw slop, flat base i.e. jaw lift is where the loose jaw tending to lift up as you tighten it, by doing so it will put your item out of vertical & drill holes off square ( damhik ) I got a 4" vice from M/Mart & I had to replace the keep plate from under the moving jaw, it was, loosely what I would describe as a piece of 3mm sh** plate.

I replaced it with a piece of 6mm BDMS.I also checked the flatness of the base to the jaw horizontal plane, it wasn't level, I ended up having to machine the base parallel to the jaws after ensuring the jaws were sitting parallel in their seating, as it was only touching on 3 corners.I finished up machining off approx 1 mm to get it to sit reasonably flat. I also made up a set of aluminium jaws machined to run parallel with the base & put a small 3 x 3 mm recess in the top for holding small items. as for the lead screw; I still need to rotate it near enough 2 turns to pick up the casting thread, you gets what you pays for.

I have a decent vice on my mill backed up with a small 34 mm machine vice from Arc Euro which is very nice...

**LINK**

I aim to get a larger 70 mm type 2 for my mill.. eventually.. . No doubt other members will offer their comments, good hunting.

George.

p.s. usual disclaimer applies.

Edited By mechman48 on 09/05/2020 17:16:50

I have a couple of shelves behind & at the side of my lathe..

George.

More of my beam engine, components completed being assembled for fit..

It's getting there..

George.

A little more progress on my beam engine, machined up crankcase bearing housing & bearing..

slowlee, slowlee catchee monkee.

George.