Member postings for mechman48

... and where was the catwalk that should of been there.. more than 3 days off work... reportable injury.. elfin safety have to be informed...

' I was rescued by the boatman that was on constant standby for such an instance '

was there never any risk assessment done ? it seems that this set up is a known risk & an accident waiting to happen at any time ... oh dear me! HSE could have a field day here... see link..

**LINK**

Oooops.. sorry, slipped into Tech. I.O.S.H mode.. the main things are, have a few wee totties of an evening, rest up, enjoy your armchair ME role, & have a complete & rapid recovery.

George

p.s. do you get to keep the lead boot.. might come in handy in the workshop for somefink ?.. .

Just some general info to help...depends on methods you have available; what tool comes into play what the material is.. , Aluminium, MS, Brass', Cast iron... if your lathe has a coolant system use that with a steady flow if it's MS, or use a spray bottle / brush on... WD40 / kerosene light oil mix for Aluminium, dry for Brass / Cast iron.

If you're using insert type tip you could use it dry with the speed upped more than the normal cutting speed for material used, if using HSS for MS then it would be preferable to have some form of coolant. I'm sure that a lot of members will give other solutions / methods. Obviously let the material cool down before taking final sizing & allow a couple of spring cuts after a couple of passes before you get to finishing cut otherwise you'll get a false reading on your Mic' / Vernier / snap gauges. Hope this is of use ..

Happy boring..

George

As long as the end product doesn't exceed 40% BV.... & for personal use only LOL

Cheers

George

Super restoration Matt.. well done...

George

Thanks Nick,

Being on a pension & all that looks like I'll have to extend my time scale to it being a Xmas prezzie & drop a few hints to all the family for contributions gratefully received... unless Messres Camelot & Co smile upon me...

Cheers

George

Nice work Nick.. can you give me some details of your DRO set up ( pm me? ) ... i.e. purchased from... glass/magnetic scales.. costs etc. as I'm rather taken with it, don't know why, just has tickled my fancy... .. have just bought SWMBO / Finance director Valentines day card.. hopefully earning brownie points for birthday this year, so... maybe?

Cheers

'The ultimate insult was when it chewed through the corner of the box [from the outside] and took the bait without the trouble of using the see-saw.'

... Ah! these country bumpkins are not as daft as we make them out be

George.

FWIW.. go the easiest route, fill up with JB weld, Devcon, or similar metal epoxy filler spot face opposite web, drill & tap as shown in Bill's pics.

George

Uploaded mod to YouTube...

**LINK**

Nice mod am pleased with it.. the hum in the background I assume is from the motor laminations.. don't know how to fix that so not going to try.

George.

Rik, & others with WM 250 & WM 14 - 18 range, a good link for machine mods & some other interesting items

**LINK**

Cheers

George.

Rik... link..

**LINK**

Look under.. Projects.. gear silencer.

George.

Finished off my lathe mod; gear train disengagement lever, from an idea out of Journeyman's workshop from Maurice Duckworth, simply to quieten the gear train down if you're not needing leadscrew feed, works a treat.

Quadrant pinch bolt..

Stop bolt on top of quadrant...

The bolt fits into a slot in the angle iron carefully filed to give enough clearance when disengaged & proper backlash clearance when engaged.

Have got a small video to show the effect on noise it has when operated, but, as usual with Photobucket it's still loading up & then I might get lucky & be able to put link in.... have got it in my Dropbox but can't see any way to link from there as I don't see any URL copy facility as P/bucket has. Does anyone have the method of linking videos from Dropbox to here..?

George.

Hmmm, may have to rethink the mist system & just use hand spray / air blast methodology...

George

Ian

Thanks, it confirms that my eyes plus the angle of the pic are what confused me; I guessed that a man of your calibre would have it orientated correctly.

George

I use a 7.5 cfm compressor from Machine Mart (bought on VAT free day, usual disclaimer ) for general use, one of my intentions is to rig it up for mist coolant system that I've got in mind for the mill & lathe plus a take off for running little oscillators, Stuarts etc. .. when I get round to starting them.. had the kits for over a year now, just never got round to starting them... .. ho hum!

The one I have... **LINK**

A bit in the noisy side but does what I want it to.

George.

Ian

No disrespect intended & maybe my view of the pic; but it looks like the key is upside down in the keyway, with the gib facing the shaft..?

I have always fitted gib keys with the taper of the key matching the taper in the flywheel, with the flat bottom of the key fitted into the parallel keyway on shaft.. if it's my eyes then I stand suitably admonished.. may be a pic from an oblique angle to show the key better would clarify, as I see it now it immediately hits me as something wrong?

Respect..

George.

Have had a go myself; I call it 'Jewelling' I used some 'Garryflex abrasive blocks' ... fine grade from Chronos (usual disclaimer ) I cut to suit some holders I made. It works well but doesn't last long so only very light pressure is needed... 1 fingertip pressure is quite sufficient. I have use other methods described on older stuff & they all work to a certain degree...

My attempt...

George.

Agree with you Gordon.. they were gib keys, otherwise you wouldn't be able to use a banana drift, if the tapered key was fitted to a flywheel that was to be flush with the shaft end then it was drilled & tapped for sliding hammer fitting & removal as using a banana drift would bend the unsupported key, the gib would then quite often be sawn off ( Elfin safety.. entanglement ! ). Since those days taper lock bushes are the norm for fitting flywheels, couplings, pulleys etc.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 04/02/2015 11:19:31

Edited By mechman48 on 04/02/2015 11:20:30

"I had also posted a question on this forum asking if any members had any suggestions as to either a source or any other means of driving the x axis but to date there has been no response.''....

.... How about trying a either of... 12 / 24 volt window wiper / winder motor, via appropriate transformer + DPDT switch... I have fitted a 12v wiper motor to my WM 16 x axis drive, used surplus u/v joint & sockets from spare socket set ...

George

Ditto Max

Part of my apprenticeship was spent fitting taper keys to shafts for brake presses, o/head cranes etc & as stated fitted to all sides... removal was with a slide hammer.. or banana drift.. but once they were in they stayed in so you had to get positioning right before hammering home..

George