Member postings for Brian Wood

Hello John,

Try HPC gears at Chesterfield, they are a British company, the work is top class and they do mail order. They are not cheap, but you will be buying quality gear that will do all that you want.

If that isn't to your liking, I motored the capstan on my D-W mill with suitable reduction gearing and wrote the work up in MEW 274 and 275. Since then I have moved the head onto my Tom Senior mill and those modifications have become redundant. They include an improved key that engages with the helix in the column, it is now frontal access as a big improvement and part of the lifting modification includes a shop built thrust gearing between the capstan and main support column. A complete ready made system, tried and tested

If that interests you as an alternative send me a PM

Regards Brian

Colin,

Something odd about the serial number you quote. My Dad bought a new ML4 in 1945; the serial number on that lathe was D 2382. The spindle and 25 T gear fitted to it at the tumbler end were both stamped with the number and other castings etc were also so marked.

The motor drive unit is pure ML4.

Enjoy bringing it back to working order

Regards Brian

Field walls with random stone are one thing, ornamental walls are usually built with coursed stone

I have to take issue with you here Jason.

In Yorkshire. dry stone walls are built horizontally, in steps if need be on sloping ground, for the very reasons of stability you mention. The use of the wall doesn't alter whether or not that is the case

Regards Brian

Nick,

Refit three of the rear cap screws at 120 degree intervals around the chuck to get a decent number of thread turns engaged and with a dead blow hammer or regular hammer and a block of timber tap them each in a pattern around the chuck to knock the front part of the chuck away from the rear. Once you have a gap of say 2-3 mm between them you can use a pair of broad bladed screwdrivers on opposite sides to carefully prise the two halves of the chuck apart.

Try lathes.co.uk for a handbook on your lathe, Tony Griffiths has some but maybe not your model. They are not cheap being quality digitally enhanced reprints, but the material is clear, clean and nicely presented.

Regards Brian

Block of wood?

Brian

Hello Simon,

Not in my experience and I have been through dozens of tubes over many years, both clear and white.

Throw it away and use a fresh one, there is definitely something odd about it and it may not go off properly either.

Regards Brian

Have you tried switching off and just restarting?

Brian

Hello Andrew,

I think it an ML4. the bolting of the headstock and the mounting arrangement for the tailstock being the clues.

I also have a copy of the manual I can send to your email address if you will PM it to me

Kind regards Brian

Hello Dan,

These gearings have a special interest for me and the 120/127 combination gear can be approximated to a combination based on 17/18 instead which is very close in result to the pucca version. Thus 85/90 might be a more readily obtainable pair to build into the gear train

Regards Brian

Edited By Brian Wood on 17/02/2023 15:05:05

Old Mart,

Surely you have heard of screwing a softwood block into the chuck to take an impression of the thread, so much easier to measure later with decent light etc.

Regards Brian

The Dore Westbury is a heavy beast but I found it easiest to slacken the four mounting bolts of the base casting to be able to lean it back and insert a shim. The correction was always to correct forward nod and that avoided the need to lift things

Hello John,

I've done this twice, once on an American made motor of 1/2 HP, the second time was on a Chinese 3/4 HP motor, both single phase. I used Jim Cox's excellent WPS book for guidance and got it right both times.

Do be sure you are using high temperature varnish when soaking the windings and binding things up

Best of luck Brian

Hello Paul,

Welcome to the Forum, I'm sure you will find interesting material here and answers to questions you might have. I am another machine tool man, not modelling.

May I recommend early on you check our your Boxford thoroughly to remove all the wood dust, it does nothing for sliding surfaces and dries up all the lubrication

Regards Brian

I agree with Peter, there is no relevance whatsoever. How very clumsy of NASA to make that statement

Brian

ega,

A neat idea.

Brian

Michael,

I can't make out much from your photo I'm afraid but if you re talking about the fibre wheel, it is bolted to a flange of some kind with 4 bolts. Maybe if that was released you might get somewhere. I only know this as I made a new fibre gear wheel for another Forum member some months ago, his had ruptured and came to me in three pieces

I hope that helps in some way Brian

Try a reduced gear ratio, it will reduce the load on the motor on lifting and provide more torque. The downside is of course a slower lift and lowering

Brian

Carl,

As another Churchill Cub Mk 3 owner I've sent you a PM.

Regards Brian

Peak 4 has the identification right. There was one with the Cub Mk3 lathe I found in a junk yard 3 years ago. Mine came with two sizes of drive dogs that can be contained within the drum shape but it doesn't have the cut away, a user modification in my view

Regards Brian