Member postings for Speedy Builder5

For the last year or so, my threading has not been up to scratch, single point screw cutting most often cleaned up with a chaser. I needed to change some gears the other day to get 19tpi yesterday and noticed that the 56 t gear (standard) was actually 58 t !!

Boxford with screw cutting G/box

And all that publicity about older drivers not being competent - 60 year old driver calmly brings car to rest !!!

Do you reckon the owner of the bike will own up to this ?

Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 05/09/2021 13:05:26

Nice one (3 phase) sitting on eby at £530 3 days to go... Higher spec etc etc

Gives you an idea of what you could get

Odd things, looks like there is a collet drawbar, the gear setup is strange and it looks like a 100 / 127 gear set (but not in the right combination) with allows an imperial leadscrew to cut metric threads, but you need some more gears (probably 5 more at £40 each), no reverse on the motor, the half nut lever is 180degrees out of position ?? are the external 3 jaw chuck jaws available otherwise the value of the chuck is reduced. Are the Dixon tool holders there ??

For a beginner I think this would be too risky. Agree with Andrew on this one

Boxford UD owner

Lee, if you don't know about this link, you should have a look. All dimensions for Austin 7 engines, crankshafts etc etc.

Austin 7 archive drawings

Electric spark etch ?? or todays technology, laser etch. Would electric etch be preferable to chemical etch ??

Live Dangerously

Professional etch

Or the non switched version

C7 to C8 cable

Jigsaw, goggles and ear muffs. Use a bit of cutting oil prolongs blade life. I have even cut 1/4" steel plate this way just with a good old DIY Bosch jig saw and a metal blade.

That was a pretty small drill for that application. The cost of drills has fallen dramatically since the 1950's and a serious DIYer would have a smaller variable speed battery drill, a small mains hammer drill for medium work and an SDS hammer / chisel drill for heavy work. Of course you will need some SDS drill bits but many SDS drills come with a "Jacobs" chuck which have an SDS male fitting.

Bob

Well Geoff, there is your first project ! Make you feel good when you have made one.

Bob

Seems strange, but you can score metal several times to cut a line. Look up metal scoring tool on the net. Mine has a small carbide point and have used it to cut zinc sheet mainly, but also some 0.5mm steel sheet for the old 2CV car.

Bob

Jehovah's Witnesses ??

Hi there Lee - That will be some project ! Which engine is it, the magneto one, the 2 bearing crank or 3 bearing.

Removing the crank can be difficult, made easier if you can tap the rear bearings off the crankshaft BEFORE removing the crank itself.

Most of the original dimensioned drawings for these engines are available on the 'net.

Let us know more as there are several A7 owners on this site.

Bob

EGA - Print to PDF is part of Mac OS, also handy is Cmd+Shift+3 this takes a screen shot and puts into a new file on your desktop as a .PNG file. re-name it as a JPG file and upload it to your albums on Model-engineer etc etc.

Bob

I am sure you all have seen these "special" bolds

Ps, if Martyn would like to PM me, I have both cast cored bronze and some scrap marine bronze that would make the 1 1/2" diameter threaded portion here in France.

Bob

Jason, the originals had a thin top hat machined in brass which formed the thread and cap. The outside is knurled and a Bakelite cap bonded to the brass. I think Martyns best chance is to find a bit of brass and if lucky enough a big brass nut with enough meat to turn the internal thread, machine off the hexagon, crewcut the thread,silver solder a thick plate onto it, and machine the cap. Expensive exercise but it would be the joy of achievement. Chance of finding a 16tpi thread here in metric land would be like finding hens teeth - BUT good luck.

French Suppliers

Brass stop ends 2" BSP may be a possibility (2" BSP 2.347" OD) but the finished wall thickness may be very thin or non existent.

brass stop end

Or possibly something like this ??

Solder stop end

Bob

What vehicle radiator ?? British / American will use TPI and most others will be some form of metric generally.

37mm is about Austin 7 size. which I believe is 1 1/2" and the thread would be Whitworth form and any TPI the maker chose.

Bob (1932 Austin 7)

Monel rivets were used to rivet aluminium alloy to stainless steel in aircraft of the 60's - VC10s, 1-11s. I don't remember them being annealed though. Typical use was the interface between stainless and later titanium jet tube and aluminium structures.

Al Alloy Rivets were coloured - Black for Aluminium, Purple for Al Alloys, Green, Gold and self colour were predecessors to the purple rivets used pre VC10 era (Viscounts, Vanguards etc). The Green, Gold and self colour had to be annealed before use and could only be set during certain hours of the day - instant dismissal if wrong colour at wrong time of day. Reason -

Green would be annealed and would grow "harder" after 6 hours and could not be 'set'.

Gold would be annealed and ready 6 hours later than Green.

Self colour another 6 hours later.

I don't remember the exact timings and the above is just an example of timings. Any rivets that had 'gone off' were returned to stores and re heat treated. If I remember correctly, rivets for a job were called up the day before use, each job had its work sheet identifying material, size and shape and quantity.

I worked on VC10 wing build for a short time during my apprenticeship, the riveting noise of 20 fitters or so was loud by todays standards and no ear muffs were worn by anyone (1964). My collection of rivets came from the floor sweeping once the completed wing was taken out of the jig.

Follow this link if interested in Monel rivets on a/c

monel rivets

Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 27/08/2021 21:09:26

Just as important and needs documenting and testing is the restore / re-build procedure.