JohnM | 17/05/2019 13:32:43 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | I purchased a Lathe and it had a problem already whereby the switch was not latching, forward and reverse worked but you had to hold the switch in position, releasing sent it over to stop.. I took the switch apart and the sections of contacts fell out and although I tried to re-construct it I am left with a pot full of bits. I went on the faithful auction site and got a replacement in a week or three. I think I have ordered the wrong one though as the new replacement is a 3 phase and my Lathe is a single phase. Can I use the 3 phase switch or do I need to get another one that will work with single phase? After I get an answer I have a wiring question for you too. I took lots of photos but want to double check everything before connecting it all up. Thanks in advance John |
Mike Poole | 17/05/2019 13:42:51 |
![]() 3676 forum posts 82 photos | Some specific details on the item you have purchased would be helpful. A picture or details of the actual device, the info plate or data sheet would be useful. If it just a switch then it is likely it could be used on single phase but if it has a contactor it will need to be 240V. Mike
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JohnM | 17/05/2019 16:23:12 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | |
JohnM | 17/05/2019 16:30:07 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | 1st photo shows the wires to the old switch feed wires and pairs of the forward/reverse. I have marked the pairs of wires with two different coloured cable ties. Second and third show the replacement switch with LW26-20/3 which was sold as a three phase switch. fourth is the old switch with a capacitor. I have several shots to show all the wiring for this switch but not sure if they are compatible? Possibly the /3 refers to three switch positions rather than three phase? Thanks John
Edited By John Milton 2 on 17/05/2019 16:48:00 |
john swift 1 | 17/05/2019 20:16:31 |
![]() 318 forum posts 183 photos | looking at your last photo the original switch incorperates a no volt release ( I expect the black part is a 220/240V coil ) I would of thought the 3 blue cam switch elements may of been wired like this
John |
Robert Atkinson 2 | 17/05/2019 21:01:30 |
![]() 1891 forum posts 37 photos | Hi, The new switch is not suitable as it does not have a no volt release coil. This is a safety feature and it is likely that the emergency stop will not operate without it. Robert G8RPI. Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 17/05/2019 21:05:24 |
JohnM | 22/05/2019 12:20:19 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | Thank you both for your replies. It makes sense as there is an extra part on the top of the original switch. I guess I will be looking for a replacement as the old one does not latch. Is there a chance you could point me to a suitable replacement please? Lathe has been sitting for a month and I'm getting withdrawal symptoms now 😥 Sorry for late reply. |
JohnM | 24/05/2019 01:31:20 |
117 forum posts 147 photos |
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AdrianR | 25/05/2019 07:41:17 |
613 forum posts 39 photos | Hi John, Did you get it working? I have reassembled that type of switch several times, very fiddly. Have you checked each contact is working when it should with a multimeter? It looks like your switch is by Kraus & Naimer somewhere on the black lump should be a part number. On page 58, Power Failure Release is what you need. I also searched "kraus & naimer distributors uk" lots come up and they have a UK office too. Adrian |
JohnM | 27/05/2019 18:17:10 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | I'm unfortunately in ICU after a severe bout of Asthma. I am still thinking about my little switch (see above) and if anyone can point me to an article where I can find out how to connect the infernal thing I would be very grateful. I have time on my hands to read now anyway. Or should I just get an electrician to come along and hook it up properly? I don't have money to burn so doing it myself would be the best option. I put it back exactly as my original photos but maybe there is a part of the switch internals that has dropped out or possibly I have fried it? Sorry to be a pain again. Thanks in advance for your help. John |
JohnM | 27/05/2019 18:19:58 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | Posted by AdrianR on 25/05/2019 07:41:17:
Hi John, Did you get it working? I have reassembled that type of switch several times, very fiddly. Have you checked each contact is working when it should with a multimeter? It looks like your switch is by Kraus & Naimer somewhere on the black lump should be a part number. On page 58, Power Failure Release is what you need. I also searched "kraus & naimer distributors uk" lots come up and they have a UK office too. Adrian
YES Adrian. That's the switch. I really struggle with schematics but I am a trier. Will check out your links thank you. I will find the part number but it could be an older version.
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JohnM | 27/05/2019 18:27:52 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | Switch is a Kraus & Naimer CA 10X
Hospital wi-fi will not allow me on YouTube or upload photos on this forum, #spoilsports Edited By John Milton 2 on 27/05/2019 18:28:54 |
JohnM | 27/05/2019 18:32:59 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | And then I found this https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=139760 Then this https://tinyurl.com/y235zntp
Edited By John Milton 2 on 27/05/2019 18:36:48 Edited By John Milton 2 on 27/05/2019 18:37:01 Edited By John Milton 2 on 27/05/2019 18:46:08 |
AdrianR | 27/05/2019 19:32:59 |
613 forum posts 39 photos | Be careful if you order one, Kraus & Namer part numbers are complicated as all the switches are modular. The one above would be CA10X-A401 CA10 = 20 A switch, X = Power failure release, A401 = Motor reversing switch. On page 26 of the tech doc you can see the schematic of the switch and how it should switch in each position. Check over your switch with a multimeter to see if it works the same as that. Adrian |
JohnM | 27/05/2019 20:18:09 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | Posted by AdrianR on 27/05/2019 19:32:59:
Be careful if you order one, Kraus & Namer part numbers are complicated as all the switches are modular. The one above would be CA10X-A401 CA10 = 20 A switch, X = Power failure release, A401 = Motor reversing switch. On page 26 of the tech doc you can see the schematic of the switch and how it should switch in each position. Check over your switch with a multimeter to see if it works the same as that. Adrian I tripped the electrics at home just before I came into hospital with my multi-meter trying to test the switch in situ. Probably shorted out two wires. This link is to the exact same switch and the same problem on these forums and he had to replace the switch. I asked if he would tell me which switch worked for him as they even mention this switch could be Myford specific. I'm always looking for the easy option. Oh my days. I am not giving up but it will be a few days before I can escape from here to look. Edited By John Milton 2 on 27/05/2019 20:20:22 Edited By John Milton 2 on 27/05/2019 20:42:31 |
AdrianR | 27/05/2019 20:46:16 |
613 forum posts 39 photos | I am pretty sure it is not Myford specific as it is in the Kraus & Namer technical doc I linked. Nothing wrong with the easy option as long as it is the correct one not a bodge. Hope you get better soon |
Neil Wyatt | 27/05/2019 21:27:45 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Posted by John Milton 2 on 27/05/2019 18:17:10:
I'm unfortunately in ICU after a severe bout of Asthma. I am still thinking about my little switch (see above) and if anyone can point me to an article where I can find out how to connect the infernal thing I would be very grateful. I have time on my hands to read now anyway. Or should I just get an electrician to come along and hook it up properly? I don't have money to burn so doing it myself would be the best option. I put it back exactly as my original photos but maybe there is a part of the switch internals that has dropped out or possibly I have fried it? Sorry to be a pain again. Thanks in advance for your help. John Sorry to hear that! Hope you are up and about again soon. Neil |
Howard Lewis | 27/05/2019 21:30:27 |
7227 forum posts 21 photos | Silly question time! The problem is not a loose feed to the relay in the control box, is it? On the Warco BH600 the microswitches on the Chuck Guard, Gear Cover, and Headstock cover, control a relay in the control box behind the Headstock. I think that they are on the 24 volt circuit that feeds the worklight (Assuming that the BH600 is the same set up as my BL12 - 24 lookalike.) HTH Howard |
JohnM | 29/05/2019 02:11:11 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | I was released tonight from ICU so I'm going to be back home very soon. I will check the relay on my release from prison. Thank you all again for helping. |
JohnM | 29/05/2019 13:14:25 |
117 forum posts 147 photos | They are sending me home from Hospital tomorrow and I can't wait to be back home with my Lathe. Oh, and my family too of course. Lots to check and hopefully I can get the darned thing up and running. |
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