Member postings for Spurry

Very good explanations there Chris. I'm sure that any who search for the info in future should find it useful too.

Pete

Go on then Chris, please tell us what you found to work for you.

Pete

When I made my welding trolley, opposite sides were clamped to the substantial steel plate, that would end up on top when finished. Sash clamps were then used to hold the two sides whilst the inter-connecting pieces were installed. This seemed to minimise the amount of distortion. At least all the wheels touch the floor, (if I find a level bit )

Pete

My version of storage is covered by commercial trays of many sizes. I find it much easier to pull out the 'drawer' entirely and place it on the floor or bench-top to access the contents. The individual carcases are made from mdf and just knocked together with a rubber mallet, and are free-standing.

Pete

Having kept every copy of MEW since issue 1, the magazine contents have been exceptionally good since Neil took over.

Pete

Must admit it was 2011 when I got medium from them. Wheels are 5/8" x 1/4". Might be worth a call though.

The ones supplied by Hemingway fit their kits, but they are not cheap, although they are the right size.

Yes please, Andrew. I'm sure we would all enjoy. Delighted that you are taking the new job seriously.

Pete

Bob Mc

That's an interesting solution to the task you had. If you look for an Elephants Foot, they just screw in place of the standard dti tip. The ones I bought were 10mm diameter x 3mm with m2.5 thread. The tip on your dti looks as if it should unscrew.

Pete

**LINK**

To break the taper just get yourself some Chuck Removal Wedges, sized for the taper.

One example from Arc

**LINK**

Pete

Richard

Was there any explanation for the apparent loss of communication?

Pete

Have a look on Harold's site. You should the info there.

**LINK**

Pete

Thanks Neil.

Pete

What sort of boring tool would you be using for this type of procedure?

Not sure from your description if the 3" piece was internal to the chuck jaws or outside. If outside the jaws, your error would suggest that you did not clock both ends of the visible piece.

You could make a mandrel on which to mount your 3" piece, then turn the outside to be parallel to your reamed hole.

A new one on me today. Amazon selling LED torches for a couple of quid, postage included.

Ok, I'll have four then. Get to check-out, Postage is now £5. Reduce quantity to three, still a fiver postage, further reduction to two and Nil postage returns.

So I ordered two. Then I ordered two more. What a way to work!

Pete

John

As your machine is small, you might make better progress just using the 8mm cutter and move it side-to-side to make a wider groove, instead of wasting time changing tools with all the problems associated with re-setting to correct depth etc.

Just a suggestion

Pete

John

Not sure if you have tried the step method of cutting a curved groove. The principle is that you use a smallish cutter say 6mm and groove the required hollow in steps, which either be large or small, depending on how much patience you have.

Your large radius cutter would then just have to shave off the tops of the steps to give you the shape you desire.

HTH

Pete

If you leave WD40 long enough, it stains the metal it is supposed to protect. I've got some of this ACF-50 stuff which seems to work well....(so far)

**LINK**

Pete

Ian

That's a good idea. I'm looking to drill a pair of accurate holes, so I'm hoping not to have to make the eccentric versions. The main problem with those is that as the mirror/picture is levelled the centre/centre distance alters,(inside the brackets).

Pete