By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Nicholas Farr

Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Farr has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

<< First < Prev 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 Next > Last >>
Thread: Silver or Stainless?
15/10/2011 20:04:14
Hi Wolfie, yes your non magnetic piece is most likley to be stainlees steel.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: making a flycutter
15/10/2011 10:31:34
Hi Ducan, I have to agree with Clive. IMHO I wouldn't think that Aluminium would stand up to the constant inttermitant loading that they very often get, as it will start to distort and creep out of shape, and you may even find the cutter flying out while in use.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 15/10/2011 10:32:33

Thread: Silver or Stainless?
14/10/2011 08:06:22
Hi, it can be confusing, even with the ideas mentioned, because you can get martensitic stainless steels which are hardenable. One difference between stainless steels and silver steel is that nearly all stainless steels will not rust, silver steel however will rust. The thing is there are so many stainless steel grades, it is best to know what you have when you purchase it, and mark it accordingly. Only austenitic stainless steels are non magnetic 
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 14/10/2011 08:33:45

Thread: Posting pics
14/10/2011 01:37:51
Hi, one way is to log on, then go to the My Account box at the top left of the page and click on my photos and create a photo album. You can then upload photos into the album that you have created, but they have to be JPEG images, but some of the characters like the @ and # ect. must not be used in the name, otherwise you get a blank with a red X in it and you won't see your photos. you can create several albums for different subjects if you wish.
 
When you have pictures in your album, you can add them to your posts by clicking on the insert image icon, that's the one immediately to the left of the you tube icon at the top of the "Post a reply:" box, and then select the album and then photo that you want to insert.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Regards Nick.

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 14/10/2011 01:44:19

Thread: How much ???
14/10/2011 00:58:41
Hi, I have been fortunate for many years to be able to pick up odd cut off bits of metal and lumps of useful scraps from my job. I have to agree with Niel somewhat about lumps of metal, scrap of otherwise, and a bit of inspiration.
 
Below is a couple of pictures of scrap parts, that I have made use of. The first one I used to make a new bit for my Hobbymat lathe, the result can be seen in my Hobbymat Lathe Refurb album. The second one I used to make a replacement gearbox end plate, the result of which can be seen in my Nicks album.
 

 
 
I know not everyone is lucky enough to be able to pick up bits like this, but with a little inspiration, I'm sure a lot of people will come across useful items with usable sized bits and pieces on/inside them. just have a look and think what you might be able to salvage off things before you take them to the recycling centre.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 14/10/2011 00:59:58

Thread: Old lathe, chuck accuracy
09/10/2011 20:24:29
Hi John, the most important thing about you cylinder is that the outside is as parallel as possible and that the faces are truly square at each end, the hole will need to have no more than 50% absolute max run out from one end to the other of the clearance size of the bolt you will be using, therefore the bigger your clearance hole for you bolt, the more run out is permissible. It will not need to be exactly central to the outside of the cylinder though.
 
Regards Nick.
09/10/2011 19:46:04
Hi John, I wouldn't call getting an item to run true in a four jaw a black art, it's just a matter of finding a technique that you can repeat. I find that when you get extremely close to running true and need just that little bit more, the best thing is to very slightly loosen off the opposite jaw, but then nip it up again gently before tightening the jaw up that you are trying to reduce the run out on. Then you just keep repeating until you are satisfied with the amount of run out you feel is acceptable.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Ultrasonic Cleaners - Experiences? Any Good?
08/10/2011 11:54:48
Hi all, last Sunday I was in my local Maplins store just browsing, when I spotted a James Ultra 7000 ultrasonic cleaner on offer. Needless to say I bought it on a bit of a whim, just to see what it might do. I realise that many think these are small and not capable of much, but there you go.
 

This morning I have had the chance to try my new cleaner out. I choose to clean a pair of Olympiade loco wheels that my late farther turned up back in the 1940's, which have become a bit rusty. The first trial was with a 90 second burst in plain water with a couple of drops of washing up liquid followed by a second 90 second burst and a 280 second burst. After these three bursts it was much cleaner and a lot of the rust was removed.
 
 

The other wheel was then cleaned, but this time I used James Sea Clean solution and three bursts of 90 seconds, and the result was very much improved, with most of the rust removed and the greyness of the wheel casting visible.
 

If nothing else is good about small ultrasonic cleaners, at least this one will clean up all the wheels that my late farther turned up all those years ago, without using harsh abrasive methods, time and lot of elbow grease, and especially having to get into all the spokes.
 
Regards Nick.

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 08/10/2011 12:02:38

Thread: Starting out and choosing tools
01/10/2011 08:09:34
Hi, I agree with Ady and look at Tony's place, as there is a wealth of info on there. Ebay is a good source of second hand tools and machines, but without much experience you could easy buy a piece of worn out rubbish or something that is not suitable for your own needs.
 
A good place to start, is to go to one of the model engineering exhibitions and talk to some of the traders there and get a sense of the size and feel of the various lathes and mills/drills ect., the Midlands one is on in a couple of weeks, but do shop around before committing to buy.
 
The Workshop Practice series of books can be very helpfull also, these are usually sold at the exhibitions as well, and you may find it easyer to select any you might need at a show, and of course you can view what you are aiming to achieve amoung the various models on desplay while you are there.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: oil
30/09/2011 21:15:56
Hi Martin, I wasn't aware there was a 2200, probably not many in my area perhaps!
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/09/2011 21:16:26

30/09/2011 21:10:55
Hi, it is wise to use the grade of oil in your machine or any other gearbox for that matter, that is recommended by the manufacturer of the machine, they may have a preference for a particular supplier, but as long as the spec is the same any supplier should suffice.
 
Regards Nick.
30/09/2011 20:52:18
Hi Martin, I'd forgot about the Maxi and the Allegro.
 
They may not have been fandabadozy, but they were affordable for many in thier day. My MG 1100, actually failed on a big end, and pushed the con rod through the block. The gearbox didn't fail at all.
 
Regards Nick.

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/09/2011 21:00:59

30/09/2011 20:46:40
Hi, Mini's, 1100's, Metro's all shared the gearbox oil with the engine, the gearbox was directly below the engine block, and was the sump.
 
They also included the differential to the drive shafts.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/09/2011 20:49:19

Thread: Tig Welder
30/09/2011 19:15:32
Hi Windy, Machine Mart do a range of inverters that will TIG weld, from a little over £200.00 to around £400.00, these are suitable for light/medium steel/stainless steel.

I'm not sure if the TIG tourch ect. is included in the price, or if you have to purchase it seperatly. The higher price one will have more scope. If you wish to do Aluminium though, you will need an AC machine, and these are by thier very nature of construction, are considerably more expensive.
 
I've no experience with those sold by MM, but welding inverters in general are very versitile when used on a standard 240V plug, and can weld a decent thickness within thier limitations and joint types.
 
regards Nick.
Thread: A Challenge - How Would You Machine This Part?
27/09/2011 07:05:18
Hi Andrew, I have to agree that your kitchen is just shame-full, as Martin has said, all that precious metal relegated to the floor, not to mention the elf and safety issues of bending down to pick it up. Have you not considered putting more units with bigger worktops in.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: How to tram a mill
17/09/2011 09:16:13
Hi John, I have a Chester Champion, and I agree with Steve's statement about adjusting by eye with the fiducial, they are not likely to be accurate mine certainly isn't, and as has been said the column had to be shimmed, (a bit of a lobourious task) but before that, I skimmed the mounting point of the base using the table to mount a small milling cobble up I made from a motor from an old Black and Decker lawn mower, just to get a reasonably flat surface for the column to stand on.
 
I trammed mine with a single lever type DTI held in a collet and onto the table in its mid position.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Hacksaw blade tension
17/09/2011 07:49:22
Hi, well I've always tightend hacksaw blades up as tight as I can get them, and I've never slacked them off when not in use, I have never found a problem. IMO they should be at least tight enough, so there is minimal twist in the blade. In my experience I have found that the Eclipse all hard blades to be the best.
 
Eclipse blades can be obtained from Buck and Hickman and various other suppliers.
 
 
Regards Nick
 
P.S. no connection with Eclipse or Buck and Hickman
Thread: Need advice on motor wiring
17/09/2011 07:27:44
Hi Sid, don't know if the picture of the rating plate in this link is of any help

http://chicago.ebayclassifieds.com/electronics/chicago/small-medium-motor-good-for-projects/?ad=12148818
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: What exhibition?
12/09/2011 23:56:41
Hi, I have to admit that overall I like the Midlands one most of all, but the other three, i.e. Harrogate, Sandown and Ally Pally are also very good for their own merit.
 
I like to see whats available (even if I don't buy) from the various traders, as much as looking at the superb models etc.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: degreasing
12/09/2011 21:58:30
Hi, I have an industrial parts cleaner which uses a paraffin/solvent mix normally, but at the moment it has a Paraffin/Diesel mix as I have run out of the proper formulated solvent. Paraffin works well on it's own though, but I had some old Red Diesel salvaged from the bottom of a redundant industrial storage tank, which a colleague and myself had to take out and scrap.

Paraffin and Diesel, although flammable, are reasonably safe as they don't readily burst into a fireball in their own right, but you should use proper oil resistant gloves when using them, to prevent dermatitis and take the same fire risk and ventilation precautions that you would for White Spirit etc. You may need to use White Spirit or some other degreaser afterwards, if you need to do any painting as Paraffin mixes will leave a oily film on the surface for a while.
 
The likes of Machine Mart sell both concentrated and ready to use, parts cleaner fluid, but it is a bit pricey. (I've no connection with them)
 
Regards Nick.
<< First < Prev 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 Next > Last >>
Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate