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Member postings for Nicholas Farr

Here is a list of all the postings Nicholas Farr has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Automatically 'closing threads' idea
13/02/2012 23:39:06
Hi, I don't think it is such a good idea for threads to be automatically closed, or for the originator to be able to close or freeze it either, otherwise any new information which may be of use, or to correct a comment at a later date, would not be able to be added.

In my opinion, any information one gives is voluntary either a thread that one starts or comments on, it would be like giving someone a gift and saying oh! by the way you can only use it for a couple of months and then after that your only allowed to look at it.
Maybe an originator should be able to request posts that they feel are not appropriate to the thread, to be removed by discretion from the moderator, especially if they have gone wildly off topic. But my understanding is, this is a forum for any member to add posts to any thread at any time, and be able to speak freely, with the exception of abuse or offensive language. We can all get things wrong, so why shouldn't someone else who spots an error at a later date, make an attempt to correct it, or even challenge an idea, for the benefit of everyone.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Mashstroy C210T / Warco 220 help please
12/02/2012 14:05:52
Hi Peter, I think the drawing itself is more or less the same, but the numbers are set out differently, which also has other numbers as well. I have scaned page E16 and put it in my Warco 220 album. seems as though there might be a difference in some of the manuals
 
Roger, that is the same page that I have in my pink manual.
 
My manual says it is factory number 213 and was made in 1993. I don't know if this coinsides with my lathe or not,because I haven't ever checked, it just came with the machine when I bought it about six years ago.
 
Regards Nick.
11/02/2012 23:40:53
Hi Peter, thanks for the appreciation of my photo's, but I think yours a equally as clear as mine, but with my compact Casio Exilim, I can get close shots. It could be that there is too much slack in your mechanism, in the pink manual it says the adjustment should be that the cut rings 511.16 should touch the faces of the nut 511.15 without any play. In the second photo of mine showing it in the locked position, that is as far as I could turn it whilst out of the lathe by holding the fork 511.11 in one hand and the lever in the other and it stayed there without any indication of it slipping back on its own. It was your photos that prompted me to take a more detailed look, so please don't do yourself down on them, every picture tells a story and helps others. I labeled my first photo for my own benifit as much as anything else to help me understand the text in the pink manual.
 
Roger, I guess your grub screw must be that which is in the detail on page E17, this seems to have no relevance to my lathe.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 11/02/2012 23:46:08

11/02/2012 18:36:48
Hi all, further to my previous post and inspired by Peter's photos and various comments by everyone, I've had another look at my lathe and studied the pink C210T manual. The operation and explanation of the feed mechanism is not detailed in the Warco manual in so much depth as it is in the pink one. Like Peter I have in the past had this mechanism out, and yes as Peter says keep the leadscrew key and keyway at the top, as it is a very fiddlely job to put the key back into place.
 
I have now found that it is possible to lock the feed lever down and there is no need to hold it, but it takes a little extra effort on the lever to do so. I think Peter's explanation more or less says it all as to how it all works, so today I studied the pink manual pages E14 and E19 sub tittled The feed mechanism and in conjunction with fig 6 on page E16 and at the same time taking mine out and studying it on the bench. Below is a photo of mine which I've labeled with the numbers in the text showing which bits they are talking about.
 

This next photo is with the lever turned into the locking position
 

There is another photo in my Warco 220 lathe album which shows inside the housing where this fits, and the end of the leadscrew and the key can be seen. There is also an alternative sectional diagram of the mechanism to that shown on page E16.
 
Like Peter I have not found the screw or pad that Rodger has mentioned.
 
When the lever is in the locked position, it takes more than a flick to release it, so some times it may be easyer just to hold it down when using on a short distance up to a shoulder for instance.
 
Hope this is of some more help to everyone.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 11/02/2012 18:38:14

Thread: Announcement from Arc Euro Trade Ltd.
11/02/2012 02:41:40
Hi Ketan, I understand all the points that you have made. When in the past at shows, your tool display stands are always well laid out, and it was easy to see the products that you sell and make an informed choice of what one is buying. Looking at pictures in a catalogue or on a web page is not the same as seeing them in real life. Will your display stands of your tooling be at the show so that people can actually see the products that they may order? I think many people are more likely to order products once they have seen them, I for one would.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Mashstroy C210T / Warco 220 help please
07/02/2012 00:14:14
Hi Ivy and Peter, I have a photostat copy of what appears to be a Warco version of their 220 lathe operator's hand book, I wouldn't say it is very much more informative than the pink version of the C210T. Not having read it all, but it dose appear to be reasonable good English, and it consists of 50 pages including the front cover. I could scan it and burn it to a CD if required, but it would take a couple of weeks, as I have a lot of other things that I have to get done at the moment. It would take too long for me to email.
 
You do have to hold the lever down, although it doesn't seem to say so in the manual, I find this easy to use myself as you can change feeds quickly if need be, and also you can disengage the feed in an instant. It should stay engaged while screwcutting though.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Lidl cast steel vice-16.99
03/02/2012 21:51:50
Hi, well I bought a set of ratchet spanners comprising of 8, 10, 13, 14 and 17 mm for £12.99, a while before Christmas from Aldi and have been using them frequently most days on an installation job, and they haven't failed on me yet. Paid for themselves I'd say, although the 13 mm one fell outa me overall pocket straight down into a wall cavity, but I found a replacement Silverline one at Ally Pally for £3.50, and that seems just as good.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Drilling brass - seizing
30/01/2012 01:04:59
Hi way back in the 70's I once had to make what was called a temperature graduation block out of brass, This consisted of a brass block about 50 mm wide by 25 mm thick and about 400 mm long. In the 25 mm side and starting at around 150 mm from one end, a series of holes had to be drill towards the other end at an angle of about 5 degrees and roughly 40 mm deep across the 50 mm width with a 6.5 mm drill. Drilling the holes with a 6.5 mm drill after a small pilot hole just big enough to clear the chisel point presented no problems, but the holes then had to be counter drilled to approx 15 mm deep and threaded to take a supporting bush which supported mercury thermometers. Drilling the 6.5 mm holes out bigger is where the problem started, with the drill bit jamming and sceaching in the chuck or as Andrew has discovered pulling the chuck out of the morse taper. Ball nose cutters as Michael suggests were just not available (we didn't have any, and the company was not going to get any, "get over it") The turner suggested to me to just touch the cutting edges on the stone to put the smallest of a flat on the them down the flutes, which I did, and hey presto no more problem, counter drilled every hole without any jamming or pulling the chuck out.
 
Ken, as has been said if it is brass that you are drilling and it seems to be sticking, then the lands on the drill bit are probably worn, it doesn't have to be by very much. Or as also been said it could be a bronze, I used to have to drill the odd bit of aluminium bronze at one time and even with a brand new drill bit it would have the tendency to bind, it felt as if is was kinda sticky.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Issue 4422
28/01/2012 09:59:11
Hi Neil, I used to maintain many large conveyors some of which were about a quarter of a mile long and had 30" wide flat rubber belts, the head and tail drums which the belt ran on, were always convexed along with various snub drums associated with the drive drum, this convex was known as the crown. The drive drum was flat on some but convexed on others depending on the manufacturer. When any of the drums became worn and the crown became more of a concave, it was difficult to keep the belt tracked, as it would always climb to one or side or other. To overcome this in the short term untill a new drum could be ordered and its shaft fitted, a 150 mm or more wide band was rolled from some 10 or12 mm flat bar and welded in the centre of the drum, which gave the effect of a new crown, and thus the ability to restore proper tracking of the belt.
 
The point of the convex shape is for the forces of the belt trying to move sideways is to be balanced either side of the drum or flywheel, and thus keeping it central, as flat belts try to climb to the highest point.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 28/01/2012 10:01:24

Thread: Vernier vs Micrometer
28/01/2012 05:01:56
Posted by Versaboss on 27/01/2012 10:02:12:

Hmm, I wonder what the subtle differences are between

- clalipers

- claipers

- clipers and

- calipers.

(N. Farr; 27. 1., 02:08 (too late or too early???) )

I only own the last type I believe, but I'm sure Wolfie would like to know also

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Hi Hansrudolf, opps! A bit of a late night after a long day I'm afraid, and at present I'm having to use my netbook with a mobile connection divice, which seemed to be dragging its heels a bit and losing conection at the time, but I was determined to finish my posting before retiring. They should all read calipers of course.
 
Regards Nick.
27/01/2012 02:08:02
Hi, when using clalipers you need to make sure they are at right angles to the job, because if they are even slightly off you will get a false reading. Most micrometers are broader across the measuring faces, and will sit squarely to the job automatically during measuring.
 
Not wanting to put anyone down, but isn't the term "digital vernier" incorrect? A vernier being an graduated scale which is read against a different graduated scale, so that sub devisions can be easyly read. Claipers sould be refered to as; claipers, vernier calipers or digital clipers. Micrometers should be refered to as; micrometers, vernier micrometers or digital micrometers, I know they can be prefixed with metric/imperial/fractional, and/or a specific type, or am I wrong, or being pedantic.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Storage of taps, dies, slot drills and end mills
27/01/2012 00:27:47
Hi, I have to agree with Roy, don't use Oak. it will rust steel. This is what I learnt from my farther when I was a lad when I asked him why he had to use brass screws in a coffee table he was making from some reclamed Oak.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Image size
26/01/2012 23:58:43
Posted by NJH on 25/01/2012 17:47:07:
Hi Len and All
 
I have just added an album to "My Photos"........................................................................
 
I think you will agree that there is no difference between any of these images. The original file is 4.5M TIFF ( converted from a 12M RAW file) and that too is identical on my pc to all the compressed files.
The moral seems to be keep your files small and save time on your uploads!
 
Regards
 
Norman

Hi Norman, I'm sorry but I have to disagree with you. While looking at them one by one without clicking on the show full size tab, there is not much apparant difference between them, however, when you click the show full size tap and then use the zoom facility there is a difference, all be it very subtle between the 624K and the 125K pics, but when you view the 76k in the show full size and zoom facility, the fine details like the grain of the wood and scratches on the the board, start to blend into the background and finally when you view the 62K picture in the same way, the grain on the wood and some of the scratches all dissapper and different colour toned pixels are evident on the board and some of the metal parts.
 
Try viewing the 624K picture in full size and with the zoom facility followed by the 62K picture in the same way, and the difference is easy to see.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: London Model Engineering Exhibition
22/01/2012 23:38:39
Hi Billy, yes, a nice chat with yourself and Chris , very informative too.
 
I spent about six hours there and had no problem filling every minute. Always get a better look at things and take photos when the crowds have gone. My day was allocated to going to the show, including travelling, so there was nothing else spoiling.
 
Bazyle, I don't know any reason why I should not to go to the shows that I normally go to.
 
Regards Nick
Thread: seaside miniature railways
22/01/2012 21:11:26
Hi Marcus, back in the 60's there used to be one along the South beach promonard at Lowestoft, Suffolk. Don't know when it was removed though, as my brothers and sisters and our parants last went there for our summer holiday in 1964, as our grandfarther died in 1965 and nana came back to live with us. Not sure whether it was a 7 1/2" or 10" gauge, but do remember it had an apple green steam engine pulling the open carridges, I think I can remember my older brother telling me it was a Pacific, and we often watched the driver backing it into its shed, off a turntable at the end the day.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 22/01/2012 21:19:04

Thread: London Model Engineering Exhibition
22/01/2012 20:42:31
Posted by Stephen Spice on 22/01/2012 20:19:45:
I too was at LMEE ......................................................
 
And what a nightmare it is even with the the show guide to find any particular stand. This doesn't even show the entrace so that you can get your bearings from a starting point.
 
Hi Stephen, you must have had a different show guide to me then. The one I have, I picked up from a desplay stand on my way in, and it clearly shows the main entrance, and the rest areas in bold print. All the trade stands and clubs are all listed, and even icons for the toilets and food areas are shown, and all in the centre fold, not bad for a feebie.Quite easy to follow in my opinion.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Loctite
15/01/2012 00:51:53
Hi Wolfie, 603 and the other 6XX's are fine for retaining plain cylindrical parts, if you wish to glue threads then the 2XX's are more suitable, e.g. 2701 is high strength for threads up to M20 whereas 243 is medium strength up to M36.
 
Regards Nick
Thread: Milling Course
15/01/2012 00:29:55
Hi Wolfie, your efforts are looking very good. So, you've made a few mistakes, but thats the way we learn, my mentors always told me, that he who never makes a mistake, never makes anything. I've been making things in engineering for more years than I have got left, and I still make a few mistakes, but with experience you can often work round many mistakes, and achieve the end result.
 
But sometimes you just have to bin 'em and start again.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 15/01/2012 00:33:38

Thread: The Sandown Park Model Engineer Exhibtion 2011
14/01/2012 20:47:52
Hi, one is not forced to buy tat, or cheap stuff, are they? and to my mine there is very often some handy stuff on the rusty junk and odds 'n' ends stands, are we not engineers with a bit of inspiration? I though the main reason for going to the exhibitions was to see the work that others have done and/or learn something from them or from the demonstrations or lectures.
 
Regards Nick.
Thread: Loctite
14/01/2012 20:23:58
Hi Wolfie, Loctite 603 should hold your tommy bar in place,if the gap is no bigger than 0.1 mm, or 638 if the gap is no bigger than 0.25mm. The joint must be absolutely clean though, Loctite do a surface cleaner for these, which is 7063. As has been said, you will find them expensive even for a little bottle, but unlike the superglues they will keep providing there is an air space in the bottle, so don't think you have been done if you buy a bottle and it is only half full of liquid.
 
It is really good stuff, and you may find it usefull to download thier Solutions Guide, they do data sheets on all thier products too.
 
Regards Nick.
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