Member postings for bernard towers

tippex every time, make sure you use the red logo bottle not the green. when finished wash off with cellulose thinners or gun wash

The bed on mine is steel and the saddle aluminium

Is it possible to two 15mm slots from either end then silver or weld a cap on?

Best I can do is 5/16 they are left overs from fitting 40 DCOE’s

That looks pretty simple to me, just a bit of brass strip with an angle filled on to it!

I caseharden small parts made with en1a leaded with no problems. They are box hardened in the barbque.

looking at mine and measuring in situ its brass and 1/4' x 3/16 with the dovetail angle machined on one of the 3/16 edges. when you say you have spoken to the uk supplier, which one?. As far as I know there is the original man who came to the shows but I believe rotagrip are now involved and there is an educational company that sells them to schools in the cnc versions.

crosswise screws are 10 tpi for imp and 2mm pitch for metric and I think you will find that the lead screws are all imp.

Michael, As far I am able to test they are 0.45 mm at the tip.

Michael, A lot of the superglues that you can purchase from the pound shops have microbore nozzles in with them.

Michael ,I’m glad it’s not just me who thinks that but if they are that clever why do they ring an apple equipped house?

Best of luck with using a die that size for accurate sizing where you could crewcut it accurately with a lot less effort.

Surely the solar panels are not the lightest of things?

I have a mate who is making the 75ton version from scratch and he has drawings from somewhere and has had them printed about 9 feet long!. It's a massive beast but quite impressive. I will try to find out about drawings and any other info and pm you. At LOWMEX last year there were 3 in different gauges as well as the 75tonner. Look on YouTube for Lowmex 2023 you should be able to see them. The guy who owns 17D is also working on a 75 tonner

I don't understand how you can have a hunting tooth on a knurling tool when the object is to have the wheels follow the same path every revolution or am I missing something?

That sounds like a bin job!

Out of interest I have made boxes from all sorts of wood including oak but because of the story of corrosion I always seal all of my boxes with cellulose sanding sealer and let it go off for week or two or till the smell disappears which proves it is properly dry and then sometimes glue in felt liners or inserts using UHU general adhesive which can attack steels unless left to dry properly again till the smell has gone. I have got some really old beech at the moment (ex school) which is about 60 years old so that should keep me box making for a while. Just another point PVA based glues are corrosive for quite a while after they have hardened.

There’s a couple of pics in my albums

in the 30s and 40s velocette used to do black chrome handlebars which mine were lucky enough to have.

Rod, I think you will find that blacking and blueing are two different processes. Blueing in the home workshop is a temperature sensitive process and blacking is a chemical one. On choices of material for blacking stay away from alloys that contain any chromium, don’t ask me how I know!