Member postings for john fletcher 1

Hello Phil, were you successful in obtaining a manual as I would also like one as I have the model as you have.John

I would like a clear explode view/ diagram of the spindle head of this machine. The bearing top and bottom appear to be pressed in, any suggestion on how they might be removed would be appreciated. Also I would like to communicated with any one who has already dis mantle a similar head/spindle.

If in the motor terminal box there are SIX terminals, then yes it can be easily connected in 240 Delta a five minute job. If it has only three terminals and two wires to each of the three making a total of six then again it can be connected in Delta. But if it has only three terminals and three wires the motor has to taken apart and internally reconnected, So that you have six wires available.A member of this site published a series of photos and some text on how he did a conversion about 6 months ago. I'm sure Neil will point out the location for you. On most motors its not difficult at all, its worth taking the motor apart to locate the star point, which is where THREE wires are joined together. Your local rewind shop will do it for you, should take them an hour,for a fee of course, worth asking before buying another motor.John

The EU is used as a scape goat for every thing now days, true or false. I remember the untrue story about the straight cucumbers and bananas. The paper responsible just laughed it off, but unfortunately folk believed it.John

There is on 'Youtube' a short video on setting up a Huanyang inverter viewing that might be of help.John

I've never seen a bearing puller small enough to get behind the commutator end bearing. I have used a Dremel to cut up the bearing and that can also very tricky to get the inner portion cut away without catching the com, proceed with care!. The field coils are removable and can then be cleans as necessary. When you use compressed air you blast the rubbish further in, when actually it needs to come out. Be careful when fitting new brushes, if you can bed them in using very fine sand paper . Paper side to the com, using a see sawing motion. Maybe I'm telling you some thing you already know. Hope not John

I went to Doncaster yesterday, show was good, plenty of good models on display. A good venue, lots of chairs and tables upstairs via the escalator out on a large patio area, ideal to rest those weary feet and legs and a breath of cool fresh air. The large catering is much better than at the previous venue. Several people I spoke to didn't realise the aero plane models were upstairs via the escalator. A good clean venue, stick with it, leave the previous one to the farmers. John

That is how the fitting shops were in LNER and BR days. We are obsessed with being tidy and Health and Safety, often you haven't time to put every thing back in it right place, that will come later when the job is completed if ever. Many steam depots didn't have electric lighting in the shallow pit in which the fitters worked in, they used paraffin flares as they were known as for lighting.The pits were often covered with water after the boiler were washed out and almost every thing was dripping with oil and grit. Passenger riding on the cushion inside the coaches had know idea what the maintenance staff put up with, it was primitive.John

There was an excellent article in MEW years ago on making a clutch for an ML7 Neil will have the details. I and a few more close by, each made each ourselves a clutch following the instructions, very good. As mentioned earlier, the Dewhirst switch was just inadequate for the job as ON/OFF, no No - volt release either. Get a direct on line starter and then use the Dewhirst. People get anxious over reverse, but how often is it actually used ? John

I made a ball turning attachment like Vic above, turned down an Allen screw to fit in the insert, works a treat. John

Now when I was in the tea plantations in Tamil Nadu and Kerala you got the real stuff, even better still from the Cha Walla on Light House beach. He was brewing up using a bucket of water on a Primus stove, he had a large linen bag full of tea leaves (about the size of a football) he dunk the bag in and out of the water until the colour was right, then he pored in lots of milk and sugar. Along side was another stove with another bucket of boiling oil in which he was making banana balls, these were banana covered in batter, then deep fried. Both were delicious, over the other side of the wall wash his washing up bucket, the contents lasted all day, so you can imagine how it looked at the end of the day. We spent 17 day wonderful days wandering around Southern India, eating with the locals and never got Deli belly.John

I have a 6 " HV Vertex rotary table, the instruction as supplied were almost useless. Later some told me about the US company GRIZZLY who sell the same table under a different name, their instruction are clear and crisp as are their tables, so I suggest you have a look and see what they have free of charge. They also have many more clear instruction for other machinery from the Far East.John

I've made a couple of stands for Myford lathes. For the first,I measured up a friends stand and got a local sheet metal company to cut and supply six end pieces, two for the back, I two for the front ,one for the top and two for the shelves. I enrolled for a Mig welding course and after gaining some proficiency at welding mig, welded the lot up. A bit of dressing up with the angle grinder was required. For the tray, I cut the and folded as per Myford all in 3 mm sheet steel. I think the cost was about £25. A coat of Hammerite and all my friends said it looked good. Two or three years later,back on the welding course again, getting better now. I bought a sheet and half of 3mm sheet steel and had it delivered to the "tec" where I was able to use their guillotine and large folder. I cut and folded two angled ends, made two shelves and top. Clamped those pieces up and tack them together, now it was free standing. Next I made the tray to pattern and it was welded up, quite a tricky job to do in the corners, its easy to burn threw. Next a back panel was fitted in and more welding all round. Its a good idea just to tack up initially, in case you get a bit of miss alignment,professional welders do it all the time and the last thing you want is a wobbly stand. I made some securing brackets so that it could fastened to the floor as per pattern. Unfortunately the "tec" has priced itself out of the market for folks like me. I enjoyed the experience and got a good strong stand in the bargain.John

To Muzzer and other who are thinking extending or creating a workshop may I suggest they consider using Kingspan, which is basically two sheets of plastic coated steel separated by 50 or 75mm of insulation. My friend has a great workshop using Kingspan, its self supporting, white on the inner leaf and hardly needs any heating at all, he built his workshop in a week without any assistance, doors window etc. Farmer use it a lot and taking every thing into consideration its not expensive way to build a workshop. Can be cut with an angle grinder and using Self tapping screw easily assembled.

PS. I don't work for Kingspan. John

I don't know where you are going to work your blower, but if its a 12 volt motor give it a few more volt,if it needs more humph. Most of these small motor will easily run on 24 without to much stress as you are only going to run the thing for a few minutes. We had a 12 volt car dynamo running as a motor on 24 volts for years, lifting things out of a tank of paraffin, long before H&S. Not being a steam man I suggest you notice what JasonB above has to say and let every thing expand slowly. John

What type of plug has the drill got and can you send a picture. Its not difficult to make a DC power supply suitable for your power tool, that's if it is DC,the voltage regulation is not critical. If it is DC, then you will need a transformer, rectifier, a capacitor and a metal box to mount the bits in. I don't know any thing about Desoutter, but some of the body building power tool work on 400 Hz AC supply they are induction motors, not much bigger than air operated type power tools. John

One of the connection is common, if I remember correctly. I had one years ago and it had a broken connection, I lifted the lid and carried out a repair, it worked well. As some one else has already said, you will need a dedicated circuit if you need to get full amperage, 13 am socket outlet isn't enough. I think I wired in some 6mm cable and one of those RED industrial plug and socket. They are excellent welders, I seem to remember the open circuit voltage was 80 volts so it is easy to strike an arc. Pickhill ,where they were made is near Thirsk in North Yorkshire and some one else told me it was a copy of another welder. Either way they are a good piece of kit to have. Regarding PCB well we used it by the 40 gallon barrel in the 1960/70 and I'm still, not sure about the other lads who I worked with. Safety wasn't heard of until later. John

Years ago I bought a Super with a broken gear inside the gear box I didn't know when I bought it, byer beware ! When I contact Myford they said it was an early type and stopped stocking spare for that g/box. I looked in HPC gears book and they did stock the gear I needed, but, I think the bore was different size but that was no problem. John

John Gibbs mentioned HH's instructions, where might I find then. Also I like Michael idea, that if John can be persuaded to make his blocks with the thread already there that would be even better and possible improve his sale .John

Years ago there was an excellent electronics magazine called Electronics Today International ETI and there was an article called zapping Ni-cads, which is much like ARRL idea. In the text it described burning off the cell internal whiskers. I have been doing this on my 20 year power tool batteries on a sort of annual basis. Occasionally I taken the battery box apart and replaced a cell, from my spare collection.John