Member postings for john fletcher 1

Well you have identify the positive and negative leads, which is which. If you hold one LED up to the light you will see a smaller leg that is Pos, the other looks a bit like a chicken head the Neg, unfortunately all are quite not the same shape. To work them on 12 volt DC not all are quite he same diameter either. Try putting a 470 ohm resistor in series with one leg and go from their. I've found different diameter LED need different current, so might need less resistance or more., not scientific here, as you say, a bit of trial and error. By connecting a diode in inverse parallel with the LED and a series resistor, you can use LED on low voltage AC. I have a lot of used ones and the above is how I identify the resistance and working voltages. John

One thing for sure, you need to tidy up the 3 core cable and according to the diagram in the terminal box lid the motor is not reversible. Not to worry as it is rarely needed if ever at all, I've had my lathe about 30 years and never had the chuck wind off or attempt to wind off. But do get yourself a No volt release device as pictured by Dave for your personal safety. The Dewhurst switch contacts are just not man enough to be used as the ON / OFF, they work well as a direction switch in conjunction with proper motor starter, selecting direction of rotation when the motor is stationary. Regarding the motor size many small cuts often, you learn to live with it, just enjoy the hobby get making swarf. Later you might pick a bigger motor if its actually needed, and when time / money comes, fit an inverter and 3ph motor. John

Talking of magnets, a friend recently had his stationary engine magneto re magnetised, he said it wasn't cheap. After reading the above, I wonder if by simply attaching several large powerful magnets to these original engine horse shoe magnet, the spark would be restored. I am aware of AVO enthusiasts attaching extremely small magnets to the original magnet within an AVO meter, in doing so, restoring the meter accuracy. It is of course essential to get the polarity correct in both cases. John

I would recommend you joining a local Model Engineering club and wandering round few car boot sale and Auto jumble sales where you might pick up a bargain. Clubs often have bits for sale and some times clearing a deceased members workshop. Follow the sound advice given by Howard above also Neil Wyat book on using a small lathe is full of explanatory pictures, is worth having. John

Last year I bought a battery powered hedge clipper from Aldi, brilliant and very sharp, we have had B&D mains ones but Aldi is the best. As we have two long hedges I bought two batteries and charge, the batteries also fit my cordless drill, all were on offer with 3 year warrantee. Regarding the long hedges, I cut one every very other week, ensuring the batteries don't get hot when in use or charging. John

As Anthony above suggests a computer power supply together with some coloured terminals make a good bench power supply. Also a more versatile one can be made out of an old type battery charger, fit a double pole change over switch, one way battery charger the other PSU. Fit a capacitor across the PSU output as a bit of smoothing, then a 5 amp three terminal adjustable regulator, break the positive output lead and insert an ammeter and you have a very useful workshop gadget. If you can get hold of disable buggy battery charge they are even bigger and better, 10 amp transformer, good case and ammeter. John.

Those two gears in the picture as posted by bernard tower was sold by John Stevenson years ago, perhaps some one else does so now. If you have a dividing head they can be easily made at home. There has been quite a discussion on "here" in the past about gears and Brian Wood's book on screw cutting. John

Can you send a clear picture of the interior of the terminal box ? Before doing any thing take a picture or with a pencil and paper make a sketch of the terminal box layout and wire colours.

Your motor has two separate windings connected in parallel one to the other and the four are connected then connected to the mains supply. You have to identify each winding, have you a multimeter with a low ohms range ? You are attempting to locate the run winding, which will have a low resistance, lift a pair of wires, ( disconnect) probe around until you obtain a low reading. The run winding is the easiest as the start have the capacitor, the centrifugal switch and the winding itself all in series. Left us know how you get on. Home later John

I was REME in 1953, and we had a jerry can factory at 2 base workshops Tel el Kebir, a lot of the operatives were from East Africa. The impressed part of the jerry can was coloured for identification, to show drinking water, petrol and diesel. We were told just how bad the British square petrol can were, leaked like a colander and with the handle on top it was difficult to stack them, not so the jerry can. Jerry can, easy to construct, to pour and fill, well thought out as were most of their gear. John

Morning all, I notice DAVE above, suggest using a oscilloscope to locate electrical noise. I recently advertised a Farnell oscilloscope for sale in MEW magazine. John

Thank you both Bernard and John, worth knowing, its to help a friend. John

Is the thread the same on power cross feed lead screw on a Myford Super 7 lathes, on both a Metric and and Imperial lathes. Alternatively will the same lead screw fit either Metric or Imp ? John

I have a RDM 350 bench top mill, also I'm getting on in years. Raising the head is now awkward for me, as I have to stretch across a bench. I propose to fit a windscreen wiper motor and controller to the mill and I would like to communicate with other persons who have already done so, or point me to an article in MEW or ME or on here relating to fitting a motor. John

Clive is correct starter motor are series wound motors. I altered a Lucas starter motor several years ago when making a 12 volt battery powered loco. The carcass was connected to earth, so I went inside and brought out an extra terminal, which permitted forward and reverse running. Also some more modern starter motors have brushes which are off set, with a trailing edge so if you reverse you may find you finish up with lots of broken brushes My motor wasn't a pre engaged type as I sure Landrover will be. John

Roy, I did say send me a PM reading the motor. John

Recently there has been pictures and discussion on "here", regarding fitting a stair case lift motor to a milling machine table, in place of the winding handle, up / down. Should any one be in need of a motor I have one FOC. As it is very heavy, you pay postage or collect. Send me a PM if you are interested. John

Recently, "Scarborough Mates" have been given a box of used but in working order Henly Solon soldering irons, I think they are 65 Watt. If a reader would like one, please contact me via a PM and then I can link you to the correct member. John

Many years ago we had a genuine Czec made Skoda car, not the rear engine one. One evening I did an oil change and was waiting for the draining to be complete, then the wife shouted time we should be going out, I forgot to put the oil in, we went about 5 miles and could smell hot oil, a quick about turn, I filled up the engine with oil. The car went for another two or three years before it failed its MOT amazing. John

I was given some blades 3 or maybe 4 years ago and made some end pieces, a real tricky job getting the blade and two end pieces all lined up, just tightening up and one fall out. Never the less, a useful accessory to have in the workshop.

At the Doncaster show there was a layout upstairs, electrically powered steam train, it picked up the electricity from the track as it went along, very nice it was too. John