Member postings for john fletcher 1

Back again Mani. I see your motor is different to the one my friend has,it had just two capacitators and yours has three. All the marking I mentioned came from my friends motor and was attached to each wire.

Leaving all that to one side and looking at the latest picture from you, I think all you have do is move the copper links from the vertical positions to the horizontal positions. I notice both copper links have proper machined slots in them to facilitate easy repositioning. The electric supply still goes to 1u and 1v as before.John

Michael Birds picture is a good clear one, showing what is required to convert from star to delta. N is definitely not the earth connection, that was the star point when it was star connected. The program for the inverter can easily be altered/ adjusted down for lower currents rating of smaller motors. Better to get a larger than needed in the beginning than wish you had latter. Some of my friend have bought Huanyang inverters for under a £100 each and no one has had any problems with them. One is more than five years old and still going strong.John

Ok Clive, when I was in India and Turkey it was an easy job to get the lenses changed and you got a glass of tea whilst you were waiting. I've seen the round lenses, as the optician was sort of proud to show off the process and his little German made grinder. I like the frames as I can look under the car bonnet and not have the glasses slide off. Incidentally was you REME ? John

Not hearing but vision. My workshop spectacles have wrap around my ears side frames, the type grandad had years ago, the frames themselves are very old. The lenses are bi focal and according to my recement eye test need replacing. Does anyone know of a company who will carryout the change for me. I do know how simple it is to ground lenses on the small grinding machine. Not one local optician will even consider the job. John

Hello Mani, first of all take a photo of the motor terminal block as it is now( in motor working mode). Hopefully you have a multi meter or a plain Ohmmeter, better still can you see making on the wires such as U1 & U2 which are the run winding wires. Also Z2, CA4, CA2, SW and CA1 & CA3. Having now got the picture or sketch of the original terminal layout remove the both links and locate U1 & U2. I think the two blue wires are connected to terminal which is CA1 & CA3. A blue wire to each capacitor. John

U1 to Dewhurst terminal 5,

U2 to Dewhirst terminal 7

Z2 to DH terminal 2

CA1& CA3 to DH terminal 6

. 240 volt supply to 1 & 3. Locating U1 & U2 the run winding is important.

Usually there are two banks of capacitors, start and run. All in parallel when starting, then larger set disconnects connects manually or automatically when up to speed. I helped a couple friends in the past and one had a manual rotary selection switch which adjusted the run capacitors in or out. When the motor hummed along that was the correct number of caps. If it sounded right it was right.The other had a current operated relay, which disconnected all of the start capacitor when the motor was up to speed, no adjustment, all or non, type of thing. When a pilot motor was fitted things really improved. Coolant pump was wire to Delta and fitted with I think, a 4 micro farad capacitor and ran from a 13 amp socket. John

Back again, I forgot to mention my inverter is a Omron Sysdrive 3g3ev and the potentiometer is 2K linear. I've had the inverter on my drilling for more than 10 years and almost any very small single pole change over switch with centre OFF will be OK. John

I haven't noticed any one mentioning that the potentiometer should be a linear type.

Peter once you have got the drill working you may consider the following idea. If you wire in a reversing switch it is very handy. I drill 3mm hole, then adjust the speed to very slow, stop the machine. Next put 4 BA tap in the chuck, turn on the drilling machine again and very carefully pull down the quill so that the tap starts to make a thread. Just before the tap bottoms flick the reversing switch. Takes a bit of concentration, but works OK for me and I haven't broken a tap whilst doing it. Same with 6 BA. John

You will find a lot of information regarding AVO meters on Vintage Radio, it is free to join, and there are many pages of AVO info. I haven't heard of anyone carrying out movement coil rewinds before. Good for you and its now working. John

Hello there, welcome, I think it would be a good idea for you to join a model engineering club where you may find a member who is also interested in clocks. Members might have some tooling in which they wish to sell and which you might need. In PEEMS surplus tool prices are so low they might fall through the floor on auction evening. I suggest seek advice about which drilling machine to buy, not all drilled holes are circular, that is where club membership comes in. John

We bought a pre owned as the used car sale man says, Vauxhall Agila 1.1 automatic three years ago and we often say why did we wait so long. Very good on fuel, in fact we don't bother to check now,.after all what is the point on checking, you either leave the tank empty or fill it and use the car. I was always told avoid an automatic cars, they are problematic, not in my experience. John

Some years ago there was an article either in ME or MEW regarding making a simple angle iron jig to hold a broken band saw blade, ready for Silver soldering it together again. I made one, together with another simple home brew device/jig which ensures both bevel edges on the broken blades are ground to the same angle on both ends of the blade, prior to Silver soldering. This little gadget slides on the side of the plate of my belt sander, I push it and the blade forward and the belt forms the angle on the blade in which the Silver solder will be when heated. I find it easy to add extra bits as and when required. Don't discard those broken blades. John

If you join Vintage Radio (which is free). On there are experts who used to repair such things and maybe still do, who just might have that spare part as (NOS) new old stock. John

Back again. I notice identification markers attached to the motor four wires.If you have a multi meter locate both pairs of windings, one pair will have a much higher resistance than the other pair, that will be the start winding. Join together one end of each winding, that will connected to say the LIVE. (NOT YET) Using the meter again, if my assumption is correct the black box has a low resistance coil inside.One connection of the coil is connected in series with the low resistance winding (the run) and the other side of the coil is connected to the supply Neutral. That BLUE square box looks to be a capacitor with two RED wires attached. Connect one of the RED wires to the second wire of the start winding and the other RED wire to the unused terminal of the black box. So now if I'm correct, when you connect the two wires to the mains electricity and press the GREEN button you should hear a click or clonk as the motor starts indicating that the relay has pulled the contacts closed and which opened again almost immediately, as happens in a fridge. Please be extremely careful and have a second person standing by.

A picture is worth a thousand words

The third wire, is connected to the second wire of the capacitor. If you send me a PM with your email address I'll send you a diagram.

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Could it be a current operated relay as fitted to a fridge, connections look a bit iffy.

Strange, I got my resilient rubber mountings from one of our local motor factors, and I have couple of spares hanging up in my workshop.

I'll be surprised if any one sell them, not many fail or get lost, tricky things to make. If you need the rubber/ plastic replacement resilient mountings, I suggest you go to your local motor factors and have a look. at their selection of exhaust mounts.

Lynne, on my RDM 350 it was a four pole 1425 rpm and the motor was 3/4hp.

I made a completely new motor mounting plate and discarded the centre pulley arrangement, ( its in a cupboard) So, now have a longish link belt front to rear, it works well. The replacement motor is a 1 HP 4 pole which I already had, they are available second hand. If you are considering buying a second hand motor do check that the mounting are OK for your machine and get some one with an ohm meter and a Megger to test it for you. Some motors are very easy to change from Star to Delta, other take much Lynne,longer. There has been some excellent picture and explanations published on here in the past on the electrical change over. I made a control box which is mounted above the quill lock, with a speed control knob, stop/start and a jog button below. No reverse here.

Has any one fitted LED strip lighting in their workshop as an alternative to fluorescent lights and have they been a success. Also, how were they mounted as most seem to be self adhesive backing. I had though of buying some mini trunking, fixing it up and then the self adhesive strip to the trunking. Your thought and opinion will be much appricated. John

Peter, if you send me a PM with your phone number I'll give you a call regarding the motor. John