Here is a list of all the postings John Coates has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: You never know what's out there! |
01/12/2011 21:52:55 |
Stub: thanks mate. I went to the metal supplier today and got some brass rod but when I got home realised I'd estimated the size wrong. I thought they were 3/8th so got 10mm but they are closer to 12mm so back I'll have to go. Will ask for phosphor bronze this time!
Anyway here they are:
Sorry they are slightly blurry. I had to turn the flash off so the exposure is longer
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01/12/2011 20:07:56 |
Posted by Andy Belcher on 01/12/2011 20:01:39:
Is yours the bar bed like on Tony Griffith's site? It looks a marvellous machine with all sorts of trick ideas!
Stuff like that was made to last...it is why I love my old Drummonds...at least the parts are easier to get hold of
![]() Andy - it sure is. Must weigh half a ton! TBH I'm still finding out what it can do. The rotating headstock is proving useful for any angle turning. The 2' between centres is great for drawbars and the 1" capacity mandrel very useful. Interesting to read on Tony's site that they were able to restore one by making a new bar. Can't imagine being able to do that with any V bed lathe without finding a new bed! |
01/12/2011 12:54:25 |
One aspect of buying an old lathe without having ever tried your hand at home engineering is that later on, when you're a bit better informed by the good folks on here, you start to find the folly of that initial "great idea". In my case it's buying something so obscure that there are few of them around (that being said three of them have appeared on ebay in the last 6 months) and tooling for them is rarer than gold plated rocking horse poo!
Well a chance purchase from an advert on Homeworkshop.org has turned up a fixed and travelling steady for my ancient lathe! The seller didn't know what lathe they were from and a brief exchange of emails with some measurements indicated the fixed steady would be a close fit for my Barker which suggested it was worthwhile making a punt on a "make do and mend" basis.
It turns out the fixed steady is a 100% fit and the travelling one needed two holes tapping in the saddle and will need a slight bit of trimming to bring the horizontal arm level with the centreline. I am absolutely over the moon and cannot believe my luck. Just need to clean them up and make new brass arms for the travelling steady (hasn't got any)
Just wanted to share my joy!
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Thread: MEW, would less be more? |
01/12/2011 12:25:25 |
Having been collecting back issues of MEW for the past six months it strikes me that we got more content back in the 90's when it started. I think this is because a lot of the content was about making things which we now find it easier/more convenient to buy. Many an article started off with "I then looked into the price of one of these things and decided it was too high for me so I made one and here's how to do the same yourself"
They are a rich mine of material and ideas which I now thoroughly enjoy perusing at my leisure. Particularly so since I have an old lathe (1947) and mill/drill (90's) which do not possess DRO's or anything CNC.
It is surprising how well equipped the workshops of some contributors to MEW and on here are, way beyond what the writers of those early MEW's could ever hope for. In the absence of finance they made do and mended.
Looking over recent issues I feel that there is less and less for me so when the renewal comes round in Feb next year I might not take it up. I'm not interested in new technology (beyond DRO's which I have plenty of articles in the back issues about how to fit) and CNC leaves me cold.
Anyway just some lunchtime musings so don't flame me too hard!
PS. I am only missing MEW's 2,3 and 16 if anyone can help me out
![]() John |
Thread: Cutting a Morse Taper |
30/11/2011 09:17:44 |
Posted by Les Jones 1 on 30/11/2011 08:45:44:
Arc Euro (and probably other suppliers) sell blank end morse taper arbors. I have considered this option to make a tailstock die holder. I have also considered just making one to fit in a chuck.
I thought of this Les and bought one but the machinable stub is too short for the slide rod for my design of die holder (double ended for different diameter dies and about 3" long) |
Thread: Missing construction details for pillar tool article |
25/11/2011 13:04:36 |
D'oh! Cheers Mike |
25/11/2011 08:58:43 |
Having bought two of these drill stands from Lidl yesterday I set about reading the articles in MEW 183 and 184
Am I missing something or is the construction of the table not there?
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Thread: How do I read this gauge |
23/11/2011 20:29:22 |
20G 1/4
means 20 tpi for a standard Whitworth 55 degree 1/4" thread. Never worked out what the G was for though
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Thread: Salvage from defunct inkjet printer |
23/11/2011 20:10:08 |
You reckon? I hoped it was more noble than that |
23/11/2011 19:46:27 |
Posted by The Merry Miller on 23/11/2011 14:41:15:
I wonder if there is a name for elderly engineers who have seen a bit since the early 1950's.
Sorry - I'm a young 'un (arrival year 1964) but may I suggest Plunderers? ![]() |
Thread: New Blocks on the Block |
16/11/2011 12:07:03 |
Was thinking of getting some 1-2-3 blocks for Xmas
These will now go top of the list as they are cheaper than the ones I was considering and look more useful
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Thread: MEW, would less be more? |
06/11/2011 11:51:44 |
As someone who only gets MEW I wouldn't want any less issues. I can see what you mean when you include ME into the equation but I think you just need to lobby for fewer ME's or read quicker
![]() |
Thread: Help |
06/11/2011 09:17:50 |
Actually thinking about it now the fact the two M6 holes were blind and I didn't remove the workpiece from the mill/drill between drilling the core and tapping (to maintain register) probably had something to do with it
![]() |
06/11/2011 06:59:22 |
Hi Kerrin
There have been a few designs over the years in MEW but they look incredibly complicated and involve the black art of electronics, about which I know very little and usually manage to electrocute myself off the mains when changing light fittings!
In my case it's only a lump out of the scrap box that has been squared, chamfered, drilled and tapped. I was fixing the flat bottom base to this with two M6 bolts so I still have one bolt hole and will use Loctite to provide the rest of the fixing strength.
Mind you I did have to scrap a £70 three phase motor during my last tap snapping episode when I lost one putting an M5 thread in the motor spindle. That's still sitting on the shelf!
John |
05/11/2011 21:38:55 |
Posted by Wolfie on 04/11/2011 17:19:21:
Drill (3/32") got half way through and broke, not sure why although it had started to make cracking noises and now I have over half an inch of drill bit stuck in the job.
Can sympathise with you mate - tonight it happened to me at 9.20pm For me it was an M6 tap. Spent blummin' hours making this new base for a Picador grill grinding device (bought very cheap from ebay as the original base was missing)
Ah well the swearing is over and I'll start perusing ebay for a new tap. Will have to get by with one M6 mechanical fixing and then Loctite the rest of the bottom base to the upper base
Curses! Drat! and confumbles!! |
Thread: Need to find 16 DP gears |
22/10/2011 21:49:44 |
Thanks Keith
Will not bother looking for Drummonds then
John |
22/10/2011 09:59:18 |
And to add to the list is the Raglan 5"
Looks like I'll need to set some searches up on fleabay ![]() |
21/10/2011 21:42:07 |
Well it looks like we have three to try:
Smart and Brown Model M
Colchester Bantam
Drummond round bed
Thanks to everyone who replied
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21/10/2011 17:18:24 |
Thanks Graeme. You're the second person to point me in their direction. But the smaller ones will need boring out as standard Barker ones are 5/8ths and the HPC ones don't become that bore until 36 teeth
At least we have a solution if all else fails |
21/10/2011 13:20:48 |
Ah just realised I had better mention that Barker changewheels rise by fours
The full set is 20, 24, 32, 36, 38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54, 56, 60, 80
That could have an influence on the outcome! |
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