Here is a list of all the postings John Haine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Myford VM-B Milling Machine |
23/09/2011 13:14:33 |
Or will try a file-sharing site that you can doanload from...let's see what works... |
23/09/2011 13:05:03 |
Aha! I sent it to that email address on Sunday...the file is about 2 Mbyte, could that be a problem? Anyway I'll re-send it. |
21/09/2011 17:17:45 |
Could you confirm that you received the email I sent with the scanned file please? |
Thread: Milling - what do i need |
20/09/2011 18:28:06 |
Don't bother with separate chuck, buy R8 collets that fit directly in the arbor. Much more rigid, hold better, and more working height. |
Thread: Myford VM-B Milling Machine |
18/09/2011 00:01:50 |
I will try to scan it if you can let me have an email address... |
17/09/2011 23:49:04 |
I have VMB and manual, will let you have a copy. |
Thread: How to tram a mill |
17/09/2011 17:36:30 |
...and by the way, it's much easier to use a "finger type" DTI rather than a "plunger Type" since you can mount it on a mandrel so the dial is horizontal facing up, and you don't have to peer round the back of the mill to see it. |
17/09/2011 17:34:49 |
I use a piece of 6 mm plate glass on the mill table and sweep the DTI over that so the plunger doesn't drop in the tee slots. Float glass is extremely flat by virtue of the way it is made, but you can check your piece by setting up the DTI in the mill spindle as if to tram, lowering it to get a convenient reading on the dial, then rotating the glass rather than the spindle. My bet is that you won't see any change in the dial reading as you do so. If not then go ahead and tram the head. I have to say (now it can be said) that I found I had to tram the column on my (bought new) Myford VMB because I was getting a similar effect. When I loosened the bolts on the column foot I found that one was held in only by paint - the hole had obviously been drilled oversize before tapping and the thread stripped when they tried to tighten it. Of course the VMB was made in Taiwan and "fettled" in Beeston, but they obviously missed this one. Myford offered to fix it f.o.c. if I transported it back..... So in the end I just fitted a longer bolt with a nut underneath (actually a spare Tee nut so it would engage the inside of the base casting so could be tightened without a spanner). But I had a strange feelinthat you shouldn't have to do that sort of thing with a Myford. |
Thread: Drill Sharpening Jigs - Advice please. |
22/08/2011 15:04:00 |
There was an article in an early MEW on a simple jig for sharpening small drills to 4 facets using a diamond plate - can't remember the author I'm afraid. It struck me as a very nice design and is on the mental "to make" list (probably at about number 3277!). |
Thread: Tee-slotted cross-slide query |
27/07/2011 14:27:58 |
Drill some holes, tap them, plug with a grub screw or rolled up kitchen roll to keep swarf out. |
Thread: Milling drawbar |
11/07/2011 17:58:52 |
Last thing you need (especially with a Morse taper) is a very strong drawbar. Studding is fine, you can even buy stainless if you want something a bit fancier than the builder's merchant stuff. Biggest danger with MT is overtightening the drawbar and jamming the taper. |
Thread: Something to ponder 02 |
11/07/2011 17:55:20 |
My father used to work for a company making electron microscopes. Their stage positioning systems use a "differential screw". This might have a thimble arrangement like a micrometer with say a 1 mm pitch thread; whilst the shaft itself has a thread of say 0.99 mm pitch turned on it. This in turn fits in a threaded collar that is on the end of the pushrod. When you turn the thimble 1 turn it advances by 1 mm, but the collar is pulled back 0.99 mm - result is an effective pitch of 0.01 mm, 10 microns. Everything spring loaded to remove backlash. |
Thread: Machining a block to have sides square to each other |
24/06/2011 18:01:33 |
Angle plate. More versatile than a vice IMHO. Even better if it has ground vertical edges and you bolt a fence to one of them. More accurate than a vice and larger capacity. |
Thread: Something to ponder 01 |
24/06/2011 17:59:57 |
Assuming that heat input to the boiler continued at the same rate (so fireman kept shovelling, blast switched on) the steam coming out of the safety valve would have to carry all the surplus energy no longer going into the engine. It will very quickly condense and give up its latent heat of vapourisation to the air and the water droplets that will form. In practice of course shovelling and blast stop, rate of firing reduces drastically and therefore also rate of steam generation and energy loss. It all comes down to conservation of energy. |
Thread: Speed Increaser |
17/06/2011 15:00:45 |
I think it reverses direction so your mill needs a reversible motor. |
Thread: Arc Euro Trade High Speed Spindle Motors |
14/06/2011 20:14:44 |
Also available (different models) direct from China via Ebay... |
Thread: New technology in Model Engineers Workshop |
07/06/2011 11:24:33 |
Try a boat building materials supplier for West Systems epoxy - used to seal & reinforce wooden boats. |
Thread: Motor wont start |
01/06/2011 09:25:59 |
Motor will run either direction if it's given a kick, this is entirely expected. Technically the single phase winding produces two equal-magnitude rotating fields, which couple equally to the rotor when stationary, but once the rotor is turning it couples more to the field rotating the same way so it starts to produce torque to make it accelerate.
If it isn't a capacitor-start motor, the start winding will have higher resistance than the run winding. This is so the starting current in it will be more dominated by the resistance than inductance so it will have a phase lead relative to the current in the run winding. The field produced by the start winding will therefore also have a phase lead relative to that produced by the run winding, creating a rotating field component which will drag the rotor with it so the motor starts. Once the rotor is turning the normal mechanism takes over so you can switch the start winding out of circuit (which is just as well because its higher resistance makes it hot).
My undergrad course 40 years ago in electrical machines comes in useful just occasionally!
|
Thread: Ultrasonic Cleaners - Experiences? Any Good? |
31/05/2011 16:55:50 |
One caution (from letters in Horological Journel. DON'T CLEAN BALL BEARINGS in an u/s bath...apparently (at least for the small ones used in clocks) it b*****s thm. |
Thread: Marking out punched numbers |
28/05/2011 23:00:15 |
Candle + saucer |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.