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Member postings for Tony Pratt 1

Here is a list of all the postings Tony Pratt 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Faceplate Runout
02/10/2011 09:36:09
If all is clean and burr free I would also skim the faceplate, a .003" cut will do the job and you will get the best possible zero run out condition.
Tony
Thread: MYFORD SUPER 7 HEADSTOCK
28/09/2011 17:43:27
Hi Neil, .0002" over 4" is I would think very very good and completely acceptable!
Tony
Thread: Acceptable runout on mill
07/09/2011 19:05:21
Hi Nic, what do you mean tapered hand reamer?
Tony
 
07/09/2011 17:32:25
Hi Nic, check the internal spindle taper first, then the chuck itself etc, to find the error.
Tony
Thread: Dividing Head help
06/09/2011 18:18:59
Hi, slightly muddy waters here. No, Hardinge is an American manufacturer and Hoffman is a German manufacturer. The Vertex does have a direct indexing facility, basically a pin slides into one of 24 holes, but as I said you have to remove the sector arm and division plate to disengage the worm and wormwheel on the BS0. Cincinnati heads are excellent also but very very heavy and I would suggest too big for a Bridgeport. I have just remembered that Hoffman spares are very expensive if you ever need them, Vertex I don't know about the spares situation.
Tony
06/09/2011 17:24:51
Hi gtrack, conflicting advice comng up! Hoffman dividing heads are excellent, I used one for 20 plus years in industry and they are a quality item, in fact my favourite dividing head when on the Bridgeport. You can easily disengage the worm and worm wheel so the work can be indicated quickly, also it has a 24 notch disc for the direct indexing of common divisions, my work one also had the attachment for the differential indexing of a large number of divisions.
 
The spindle lock is hydraulic and I had no problem with it in again 20 plus years, I have one purchased off Ebay stripped down in my garage as another project when I get round to it.
 
I currently use a new Vertex BS-0 which is ok but not in the Hoffman class, the worm and wormwheel can be disengaged but only after you take off the sector arms and division plate. The Hoffman has a bolt on and the BS-0 has a screw on chuck which again is ok just remember to plan you machining so the cutter/drill tends to tighten the chuck!!
 
I believe the BS1 is bigger all over and can accomodate a lot more divisions.
Tony
 
Thread: Health
30/08/2011 21:24:06
Well they don't work on most people, I didn't even know what the OP was talking about, but I do now that I have searched for them! Also perhaps someone here does want some help in that direction? Sorry to hear David is unwell, lets hope he soon recovers.
Tony
Thread: M4 carbide tap
30/08/2011 18:19:46
Hi, are your taps sharp and of good quality? I second what Ian says above, also I don't think carbide tap and reasonable cost go together!
Tony
Thread: Myford S7 Spindle Nose / Chuck fitting.
30/08/2011 17:18:47
This is the weakness of this simple system, you have to have a slight clearance between nose and register to allow it to work. A taper to taper register will take up any wear.
Tony
Thread: 3/8" BSF stainless steel grub screw supplier?
28/08/2011 13:00:13
Hi Jason, yes I may have to do that if I can't get any ready made ones. I'm off to try a new search now.
Tony
28/08/2011 12:16:11
My apologies for asking but this is my last hope. I am after a few 3/8" BSF x 1"long stainless steel grub screws. This is for a custom built carp fishing rod rest project I am building for a co-worker. I have trawled the internet for hours and searched all the usual suppliers, I can buy any thread apart from the one I want. Does any one know if such a thing is still avaliable?
Thanks for any help,
Tony
Thread: Tang type Morse Taper cutter
13/08/2011 19:54:44
I have seen them in museums and god knows how they were used safely, seems a recipe for disaster. I wouldn't rely on a morse taper to hold a milling cutter securely and really a draw bolt is the only way to go!
Tony
Thread: MEW180 CAD Article
10/08/2011 17:07:59
No, but somebody might be.
Tony
Thread: Tool Centre Height
04/08/2011 21:44:14
Damm, I've been waiting 40 years for just such a gadget, seriously though I wouldn't waste your money.
Tony
Thread: Slot drills
19/07/2011 22:26:07
With respect not many people could make a decent cutter in an hour and if it takes twice as long to do the job it can't be that good can it? I am all for home made if it is better than commercial [ I have made some lovely beers!] but I really don't want to be struggling with dodgy/soft/blunt cutters, you will get bad work from them and a lot of frustration and will cost you more in the long term. I use what I consider to be the right tool for each job I tackle be it wood work, metal work or DIY, that I believe is the way to go.
Tony
Thread: What happened to the Myford sale thread?
19/07/2011 21:45:21
Eric,
Don't be discouraged, what you are seeing is an example of what can be done to encourage people to buy the machines, I have used these type of machines in industry but still get great pleasure turning handles on my manual lathe and milling machine..Basic engineering skills are as relevant today as they have always been!
Tony
Thread: Slot drills
19/07/2011 21:38:58
I 2nd that motion. I can't think of any reason why a home made cutter would be better than a commercial item produced by companies with huge investments in research,technology and experience.
Tony
Thread: Mounting lathe tools at center height / operator error?
13/07/2011 21:15:53
This subject has been debated ad nauseum on various forums with a myriad of opinions. I would say set your tool on centre height and if it doesn't cut the tool geometry is not right in some way, where the problem is would be difficult to say without seeing the tool. Moving the tool above or below centre height is altering the top rake angle so I would look at that first. You are not alone in experiencing poor finish on work, we all get it from time to time and again there are many reasons for it, a search on this forum should point you to the relevant threads.
Tony
Thread: Myford chucks
11/06/2011 21:24:58
The chuck should screw on until the chuck register face meets the spindle register face, the threads shouldn't bind at all.
Tony
Thread: How to make an accurate internal hole
09/06/2011 17:40:33
I have used new drills with the corners rounded [stoned] off many times as a form of reamer, leaving a few thou in the hole and finishing with said doctored drill will produce a tight hole as long as the drill is running true and care is taken in the drilling, cutting oil is also a good idea.
In my humble opinion drills won't produce a precision hole on their own and hand sharpened ones can be a nightmare, as has been said you really need some form of mechanical sharpening device to achieve decent results.
Tony
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