Member postings for Baz

Chuck the barbaric thing away and treat yourself to a diamond dresser.

Cheap and tacky, get rid of it !

CNC lathes not only part off under power but also manage to do it from a front toolpost, overhead toolposts set at 10 and 2 o clock positions and from a rear turret.

Buy the Sweet Pea book, details all in there.

Vic you are not alone, I signed up for the three magazines for a fiver and I got the same email as you saying that I have only one left to come, I have not had any of the three magazines yet.

Ideal car for a Model Engineer, got to be a Land Rover Discovery, will tow just about anything and with the rear seats folded flat there is about 6 foot by 4 foot load space, swallows a couple of Myfords in the back and most importantly the spare wheel, full size not stupid skinny thing is mounted underneath so you don’t have to empty the load space to get the spare out at side of the road.

Phil PM sent.

Phil in answer to adhesion that is down to weight of loco on the driving wheels, performance comes down to cylinders and grate area. For me it comes down to relaxed driving, not always having to keep an eye on the fire and the water and the pressure, and of course the signals. I tend to run the 3 1/2 gauge during the week when I have the track to myself without signals, for club running days I prefer a five inch loco, lastly some club members class the smaller gauges as rolling roadblocks, particularly when they are chasing you round on a five inch Black 5 and you are on a small three and a half. Comparing the Jubilee and a Simplex for a start the Simplex will have a grate wider by about inch and a quarter purely because of the difference in gauge. So having said all this what am I currently building.......a 2 1/2 inch gauge Toby 0-4-2. You must build what you like regardless of gauge.

No it is not normal, wheels should have the same number of teeth or serrations.

Dave Halford is correct about the hinges, there are many types, proper miniature hinges, moulded plastic ones and strips of Mylar film about 20mm wide. Mrs Google will find your nearest stockist,

Welcome to the world of Model Engineering! You will find things don’t line up, bits are drawn wrong, 26 tpi threads are supposed to fit in 40 tpi holes, the list goes on. Although all these drawings, steam loco, traction engine and workshop tooling have been around for years the drawings are never updated, the pathetic excuse from all the sellers of castings and drawings is copyright issues, this is just a lame excuse, all that is needed is a sheet of corrections sent out with each set of drawings, please watch out for missing holes here, wrong size hole there etc. Rant over, I wish you luck with the Bonelle, not many finished ones exhibited unfortunately. Please keep us all updated on your progress.

Me and the Mrs got our notifications today.

Phil a five inch gauge Rob Roy is basically a Simplex, with my many degrees in hindsight I would build five inch gauge, I have a 3 1/2 Doris black 5 and it goes well enough but I don’t find it as relaxing as a small 5” loco. I have a Rob Roy under the bench that only requires platework to finish, it has sat there for 25 years. In answer to your question, I think you would regret the time and effort.

Nearly but not quite there yet, showing a double cut, look at bottom illustration in Sonics post above.

The Acute tool grinder will touch up the end of a blunt cutter but will not be able to do the gash cut and will not be able to do the side flutes.

Plenty of Clarkson cutter grinders on the second hand market, they will sharpen ends and sides of cutters plus do a whole lot more things.

I use a couple of old cardboard boxes, one each end of the table, they catch most of it and Henry the Hoover gets to suck up the bits that escape the boxes.

Plus one for Martins comment, doesn’t matter where the tool is, front, back, above, below, it’s the confidence of the bloke turning the handle.

Looks to me as though the original knurls have been done in bands as they don’t match up exactly so just set tool square to work and stab it in, wind it out,move along setting square to work again and repeat process. For what it’s worth I far prefer the bottom, grooved version.

Must have taken a long time to turn that crutch to swarf if he used a Myford, we all know you can’t take big cuts on them, just think how much quicker he could have done it on these wonderful machines from China, assuming of course that he had stripped it all down and rebuilt it properly beforehand. Think I will get tin hat and hide for a while.