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Member postings for russell

Here is a list of all the postings russell has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: HSS tool inserts
21/12/2010 01:21:05
when i bought my OA welding torch a few years ago (dillon/henrob) the salesman demonstrated 'hard facing' using old drill bits. the bit was used as a filler rod, and used to build an edge on a MS bar, eg as a cold chisel. perhaps the heat (a lot more than red! ) affected it somewhat but it was still a very hard edge.
 
(i have a bundle of old cobalarc rods as well, maybe they could make good scribers /tools?
 
regards
 
russell 
Thread: drilling paper
07/12/2010 01:45:16
having 'adopted' the paper drill at work a few years ago, because it was always blunt when i wanted to use it, here are some observations...
 
1. The drill was a hollow punch style, spun at some speed (i dont have access now, but i'd think at least 1000rpm)
2. The sharpening process consisted of pressing the running drill onto a special sharpener, which was like an inverted V shaped piece of (i guess) carbide, with a little rake.
this had a tendency to raise a lip or burr on the outside, which was removed with a small stone (still running).
3. To drill, a piece of sacrificial fiber board was placed under the paper, the paper stack clamped, the drill lubricated with a bit of soap, and away you go.
 
blunt drill = smoke....
 
 
Thread: Restoring a steam engine
11/11/2010 01:50:55
three suggestions:
a mix of kerosene and diesel is supposed to be a very good penetrating agent (like Penetrene, not sure if that is an Aus product only or more widely known)
 
Secondly, often used by vintage type restorers, is molasses in water - very slow (think weeks) but gentle - removes rust back to clean metal. Need a big bucket (bin?), and soak. I used a few cups to 5 galls water.
 
thirdly, look up electrolytic derusting. Basically electroplating in reverse, with a steel or stainless steel anode, and your item as the cathode, in a water with a few spoons of a salt - i use caustic soda, cos that helps with paint and grease as well, but washing soda is also used.
 
regards
 
russell
 
 
 
Thread: Cutting Aluminum Sheet/Plate
19/07/2010 03:29:12
i've not done it myself, but i have seen a demo of cutting about 3" x 12" al bar (not sure what else to call it!)  using a circular saw. The only concession i can recall to it not being wood was use of a spray lubricant, applied by hand.
 
I've also seen Al extrusions cut dry  with an apparently normal mitre saw. 
 
hope this helps....
 
russell
Thread: Filing Machine Construction
02/06/2010 02:29:07
 but NO plan ... did I miss something or are the free plans not included in the digital archive?
 
Dave

 
 
I asked the same question a couple of months ago, with no response.  Of course, at the new improved resolution the plans probably couldn't be read anyway...
 
russell
Thread: Boring for a Beginner
22/03/2010 11:35:30
jason, thanks for the tip about 'sally', i printed it out but havent read it yet. 
 
i am using this hot air engine as practice before i start on a casting set for 'pevensey' a local (Oz) horizontal engine. 
 
regards
 
russell 
22/03/2010 11:33:18
thanks meyrick, i have the book, and have ground bits before, not as well as the tangential jig does them though ( my elderly drummond B type lathe needs all the help it can get!)
 . 
The tip about 'knife' tool is what i need to get started. still getting my head into thinking about all the angles rotated 45deg. (and of course the boring bar itself can be rotated).
 
then i just need to map it onto the broken stub of the  drill ( the next bit up has some flutes on it, so should be hard). 
 
my thought (hope?) is that i can take the 'tangential' idea and find a single grind angle (or maybe 2?) and end up with a repeatable jig.
 
 
 i'm working my way through the back issues of MEW. , and i have the last 30 odd years of ME plus some odd older ones. just need a good index!
 
 regards, and thanks.
 
russell 

Edited By russell on 22/03/2010 11:45:23

Thread: cylinder for hot air engine
22/03/2010 11:26:43
thanks Ian SC, guess i'll give it a go welding. i am sort of afraid i'll weld up that section, and another gap will open up when i go a bit further. live and learn!
 
the plan dimensions are 3 1/2 inch by 1" (external) - the inhaler is 22mm x 62mm so i figured it was fairly close. (there are some other inhalers which are a bit shorter).
 
thanks circlip, i picked up an old gas strut (i think) may be a great power cylinder!
(i also have a timing belt tensioner from a honda odysey, looks like a cast iron cylinder with piston, not sure how to get into it though)
 
 its all more fun than cutting the grass...
 
regards
 
russell 
21/03/2010 23:45:08
hi all,
 
i am (attempting) a simple stirling engine, from plans in popular science (april 61). It calls for a displacer cylinder of 1"  conduit turned down to 0.010 wall. I am using a piece of old bicycle frame. However, as i turned it down, i found a crack along the seam.  (about 1/2" long).
 
Is it reasonable to attempt a repair? I could silver solder, braze, or weld (oxy), probably using a scrap of tube as filler.  as its not the power cylinder, absolute concentricity doesnt seem important.
 
(I dont have any more tube from this source, and i would suspect that another piece would be just as likely to suffer the same defect, my first attempt i crushed in the chuck, the second i turned too thin and found a crack in that as well)
 
 alternative sources of suitable tubing  (in australia) welcome.
 
( i am planning on using an old asthma 'ventolin' inhaler as the displacer piston, its a little narrower than specified, is that a big problem? )
 
Thread: Boring for a Beginner
21/03/2010 23:19:17
can anyone point to an illustration of 'how' to grind a bit for a boring bar?
 
I made a simple bar, drilled 1/4 about 45 degrees (so the bit projects beyond the end of the bar) - i started with the end of a 1/4 drill, ground (using the 'diamond tool  holder grinding jig). It sort of works, but clearly the end of this particular drill bit is soft (i know because i cut it with a hacksaw...).
 
Can HSS be hardened?
 
thanks
Thread: Line Borer
19/03/2010 01:30:06
I'm sure i can recall reading about someone doing this, almost certainly in an old model engineer. Just had a quick look at a on online index, but i cant find the article.
 
need to guess the right search terms. It may have been a 'duplex' or 'geometer' article - maybe 'artificer'
 
regards
 
russell
Thread: MEW Digital Archive Scanning Problems
24/02/2010 03:08:14
issue 12 - page 12 missing, all subsequent 'double page' spreads are a page out. page 73 is duplicated after 74. (so the page count is still correct)
 
secondly, this issue advertises 'full size plans' - but i cant see them. I expected all material published to be available. Can they be scanned and made available please? (at a higher resolution if possible!)
 
 
Thread: MEW back issues
24/02/2010 01:56:19
hallo, müssen Sie Ihre Unter-Nummer in Ihrem Benutzerprofil (die letzten 8 Ziffern eingeben only). Ich fand die MEW wieder Fragen wurden nach dem Vorbild Ingenieur Fragen. Es doesnt offenbar keinen Weg, um direkt zu einem bestimmten Thema. Ich hoffe, Sie können diese (Schuld google verstehen!)
 
hello, you need to enter your sub number into your user profile (last 8 digits only). I found the MEW back issues were after the model engineer issues. There doesnt seem to be any way to go directly to a particular issue. I hope you can understand this (blame google!)
Thread: Diamond tool holder.
17/02/2010 23:06:06
there's another long thread on this tool in the forums - i think the general consensus is that it works well. that's my experience, i suspect a lot of the reason is the sharpening jig which means its easy to get a good grind. i have an elderly (actually ancient!) drummond B type which needs all the help it can get.
 
-russell
 
Thread: Drill Chuck, Dismantle
14/02/2010 23:22:54
and as far as i can work out, = australian Mineral Turpentine, aka 'turps'...
 
 
Thread: Old lathe, chuck accuracy
03/02/2010 00:26:56
i'm also thinking of purchasing ER25 collets and a 1MT holder for my drummond B type.
 
However, using the MT holder means loss of the hollow spindle. Is it feasible to make/buy an ER holder which would screw onto the drummond spindle (like a chuck backplate? would that lose the accuracy of the collet system?
 
thanks
 
russell
Thread: Knurling
03/02/2010 00:23:14
thanks everyone for contributing to this discussion.
 
there is something i am confused about. when i want to knurl over a length longer than the width of the rollers, should the rollers be square to the work (in which case, it seems i am trying to force the 'leading edge' of the roller into the work, resulting in a mess) or at a slight angle, so the knurl is developed in depth as the (longitudinal) feed progresses, in which case, the leading edge will not be as deep as the rest (assuming i cant feed right off the knurled section, which is likely as the head or tailstock will be in the way)
 
or is there something fundamental i am not understanding?
 
thanks...
 
russell
Thread: Tapered Blow Down Valve
07/01/2010 02:15:15
Are you sure everything is still circular? I am wondering if the body distorted?
 
if you were to put engineers blue on one part and rotate slightly, you could (should!) be able to tell if it is making contact all the way round.
 
regards
 
russell
Thread: HELP Wanted! Cutting Metal - But By What Means?
02/12/2009 04:20:43
has anyone used the recip. tpye saw (eg, sawzall) - mine doesnt seem to have any provision for mounting in any way, but i was thinking it could turn into a poor mans power hacksaw. (AUD70 ex aldi)
 
regards
russell
Thread: Cleaning up corroded dials
18/11/2009 02:53:02
i have a similar problem with my elderly drummond. i've wirebrushed the dial, but need some way to properly clean out and fill the markings (some of which are very shallow).
 
I've tried using a carbide tip scriber to clean the lines, but very little effect as the dial appears quite hard.
 
Frank, i think you are suggesting rescribing the lines using some sort of gadget? Is it possible to get them lined up well enough, or is it just easier to make a new dial?
Is there any benefit to steel over aluminium? What is the best way to make the lines high contrast?
 
so many questions....
 
russell
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