Member postings for Jeff Dayman

Top notch work Tug! Thanks for sharing it. Glad to see another member of the BFCIMC (black fingers CI machining club).

My instincts tell me it may be a linear handled turbo thromulator, but it may just be a common wrench to operate plug valves or stopcocks with various size straight tabs on top to open and close them. Just my guess.

I'm pretty sure darkons are what you get from Lucas light bulbs much of the time, just as anti-sparks are what come out of their ignition parts.

Could be darkons affect bread toasters too. I have heard people say " damn! darkon oneside" when using toasters in the canteen.

(i'll get me coat)

what about "I don't like the font and colour of the 'bulb' posts" or "the real problem with bulb changes is that the house is hard to rotate under the bulb"

The last ditch engine start technique for temps here in Canada for days below -25 deg C at the family garage was to take a pint pouring can (with thin spout), put a few ounces of gasoline in it, light it, and pour fire directly into the open intake while cranking the engine.

Extremely dangerous, not the done thing these days I am sure, but it worked, particularly on very large gasoline and diesel engines. Definitely worked better the older the engine was. We worked on cars trucks and tractors from the 1920's to the 1980's in the family shop.

Nowadays you would be challenged on most cars and trucks to find a vertical intake hole of any kind to pour the fire into.

We got many calls for "engine won't start" on such days, on locally used cars, mostly 1960's-1970's US made ones. Dad had rigged an extra long set of heater supply and return hoses into the 327 Chev V-8 in our service truck. He arranged end-of-hose valves and couplers so that on such calls he would disconnect the heater hoses from the car's engine block and connect in the long ones from the service truck's running engine. 5 minutes of hot circulating coolant and 9 out of 10 engines would start just fine. Another 5 minutes to disconnect hoses / fix car's coolant level , return to the garage where the phone was ringing off the wall, and then send a bill for $25 whole dollars. Without the hot coolant many cars just would not start at say -30 deg C regardless of what you tried or for how long.

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 16/02/2021 20:09:29

I'd give Guinness WR a call! That would not have happened that way in my shop these days - they'd be gone like the wind.

Maybe moderators blew Mr Stark's barge clean out of the water with a broadside of all the 16 in guns..........

If you did want to try an insulator sheet to reduce heat transfer from cyls to frames, you could try a sheet of printed circuit board FR4 material with the copper removed. Quite a good insulator and mechanically very sturdy, no very compressible either. Just a thought. As others have said it is likely not needed as seen my many existing O scale steam locomotives without it.

Another thought - if Martin Evans had milled away the material around the cyl screw holes and other openings by 1/64", leaving the holes as islands, it would leave an air gap in the majority of the cyl face which likely would reduce heat transfer significantly without reducing strength and with no effect on alignment.

Steel sheet galvanised, plated or painted would be cheaper, have much longer life, and be much more robust than laminates etc. as well as being the traditional proven under-lathe material. However if you really want laminate/plastic I would give a +1 to Noel's suggestion of formica, as used in kitchen counters. A kitchen or bath fitter shop may have an offcut or a counter that was cut too short for less than all new custom cut material.

Find the true end of the crack, drill a hole there so it is less likely to keep opening up and getting bigger. Then vee it out with an angle grinder and bronze weld it with oxyacetylene torch. Slow preheat to near red heat is important before bronze welding CI. If you don't have the OA equipment and bronze rods, a good car garage, machine shop, or agricultural equipment repair place may be able to do it for you. If you are anywhere near southern Ontario Canada I could do it for you.

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 14/02/2021 01:00:33

A spade drill (ancient design, nothing new) as shown in the link below can be easily made in the home shop by grinding a drill rod / tool steel blank to shape, or forging / grinding. They don't jam in brass or bronze as easily as twist drills. If they do break, pliers can be jammed beside the flat end to get them out, usually. Just food for thought.

https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p/WWG10L356?gclid=CjwKCAiAjp6BBhAIEiwAkO9WuvL1MQ1H9SyDSaZkfLCqJkS0DipMtKoWm-4W3LFpEF6TNfTJjcvm0xoCxWIQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAiAjp6BBhAIEiwAkO9WuvL1MQ1H9SyDSaZkfLCqJkS0DipMtKoWm-4W3LFpEF6TNfTJjcvm0xoCxWIQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3645!3!303439922840!!!g!597199332678!

sorry-a post was put in wrong thread - please disregard this post

Edited By Jeff Dayman on 13/02/2021 19:19:01

I'd suggest a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff disk of 80 or so grit. You may be a long long time and go through many expensive Dremel grindstones doing the vee out with a Dremel.

"don't bring a knife to a gun fight" as they say in the movies.

Great job by Trevor on the clutch, and many thanks to you Graham for the series of screwcutting clutch designs you have contributed over the years to the hobby. Well done!

Another thought - could it have been used for engraving numbers / lines on an arc shaped path / curved part, maybe a brass protractor type scale? If engraving, the work could be held by hand, and the table might be one off some sort of a Deckel or Rank style pantograph style engraving machine.

Hi Jack, the round table and screw certainly do look more like theodolite parts as you said, or telescope related parts, as Paul said, than factory fixturing components. What made me think 'factory fixture' was that very non-theodolite non telescope-looking heavy T slotted milling style base plate. Could it be the round table and screw started out life as theodolite or telescope parts and were later matched up with the milling base as a re-purposing exercise? Maybe in wartime, to minimize costs / use what was at hand? Very hard to say for sure how it originated, but fun to think about.

Maybe it was made as a factory fixture to hold a part or a sub-fixture with a part in it for drilling reaming or tapping a series of holes along an arc. Looks like there is an index mark on the left side bearing, so the no of turns could be counted, this would explain my guess about it being for a no. of holes on an arc. The pins and slot on the table might have located the part or fixture, and cutting pressure / operator hand pressure may have been enough to hold things down to the table. As there are no hold down tapped holes or clamping provisions I'd say it was probably not used for any heavy slot milling or radiusing the ends of rods or plates. Just my thoughts on it.

Lights, paint, details look great Ron!

Molotow eh? paint as well as cocktails, now. Hadn't heard they had expanded the product line!

I'd suggest the steel sub-plate bolt on as well, if you do not have oxy acetylene equipment or a friend skilled in welding.

If it were my bracket, I would grind out the crack to an open vee shape, clean off all adjacent paint, and pre-heat to dull red heat. Then bronze weld / braze with bronze rod the vee'd area with oxy acetylene. Good solid repair.

+1 for Duncan Webster's statement on reading Martin Johnson's article. My own dismal thoughts would encourage that, as well as reading the Alan J Haigh book "design, construction and working of locomotive boilers". This book has a deep description of heat transfer, structural design, and operation of full size boilers, and is fascinating reading from a professional boiler designer. Well worth a look. As to Mr Worsley's inflammatory and unproven statements, I'd just say "don't feed internet forum trolls."