Member postings for Lambton

Andrew,

I have an old Arrand catalogue dated 2003 in which it states -

"Boring heads have interchangeable shanks. Threaded interchangeable shanks are available (see chart opposite) so boring head can be used on machines with different tapers , or if you change you machine, a nrew shank can easily fitted to suit."

The "chart opposite) list a wide variety of shanks not just Morse taper ones.

Very unfortunately, Arrand ceased trading some years ago probably because of Far Eastern completion

Eric

Peter,

It is not good engineering practice to fit a taper pin in a parallel hole. Proper taper pin reamers (not drills) are made..

There are both imperial and metric standards for taper pins. It is worth getting the correct pin and reamer as your application is obviously important to you.

Eric

Swarf,

I have a standard bore Super 7. I have never actually measure the bore as I already know the answer - Not big enough!

Eric

I used WD 40 for years - until I discovered GT85 which is much better in general.. Mainly used by motor bike and cycling enthusiast. Still has the traditional spray and push-in tube arrangements. Halfords sell it and so do quite a few on-line sellers.

Eric

Eric,

You have received lots of good advice about gripping the job and die adjustment .

May I recommend that you try Ambersil "Tufcut" lubricant .that is specifically formulated for turning, drilling, reaming thread cutting and tapping tough materials such as titanium, stainless steel, high tensile steel and high carbon steels. I have used it for years with every success. It is available from Cromwell Tools or most other good tool suppliers.

II have no connection with Ambersil other than as a very satisfied user of Tufcut.

Eric

Clive,

I have a 1965 M&W catalogue that refers to : part No 315TP as Black Glass test piece only 30/- each. (£1.50 )

I hope this is of help.

Eric

I went to this year's sale on Saturday and found it very good. Lots of stands with a wide variety of stuff on offer.

I took a small amount of surplus items and sold a reasonable quantity.

The only snag was the deplorable state of the public roads going to and from the sales ground. Endless pot holes and large areas of worn-out surfaces. I came back via Quainton - a most uncomfortable journey. The local highways agency should be ashamed of themselves.

I appreciate that this is beyond the control or influence of the sale organisers.

Eric

Philip,

0.156"= 4.0 mm

4.0 mm diameter X 0.5mm pitch is a standard metric Fine thread. Yes it will look very fine.

I find it is best to avoid any confusion by sticking to either imperial or metric dimensions.

Best regards

Eric

Neil,

You may not have a motor problem at all.

You may have some end float in the spindle allowing it to be pushed back into the front tapered bearing bush thus stalling the whole job. The design of the S7 headstock, when set up correctly, is to have absolutely no end float. but retaining free rotation.

Check by trying to push/ pull the chuck backwards and forwards preferably using a DTI to detect any movement.

Adjust the spindle very carefully according to pages 24 - 26 in the Myford handbook. It is essential to make the adjustments in the correct order. Study the instruction carefully before making any adjustments.

A correctly adjusted spindle should have zero end float with a very small clearance in the front bearing - just enough to allow free movement and for an oil film to form.

Eric

Brian,

I cannot help you with advice on the particular problem you have, however please rest assured that we have all made stupid mistakes at some time or other and lived to tell the tale.

My old Dad, long gone now, was a time served toolmaker used to say to me " the man that has never made a mistake has never made anything"

Good luck.

Eric.

Jeff,

I have sent you a PM.

Jeff,

I also have an elderly Tom Senior E type on which the column s sometimes is reluctant to lower. This is because the it sometimes "pitches" due to the mass of the head being at the front with very little weight at the back to balance it. When this happens I lower the column adjuster a shot way and then rock the head a bit which then fall down nicely onto the adjusting jack. Do this in shot stages as it comes down with a clonk!

Eric

Norfolk Boy,

This is an Eschenbach Optik 1171 Microscope that used to be supplied by RS components part number 541-040 now discontinued. I have the 40x only version which is difficult to use unless you have excellent vision.

Eric

Rik,

I think that you are referring to the strap that goes around the eccentric sheave that is mounted on the crankshaft.

What is the sheave made of ?

What will the engine be used for light running or driving a real load|?

Brass / steel combination should be OK but as I suspect you know Bronze/ steel would be better giving a longer life.

If the sheave is cast iron you would be better off making the strap from steel.

Obviously make provision for adequate lubrication what ever metals you use.

Eric

I agree with JWB that the self ejecting feature of the Super 7 tailstock can be a confounded nuisance. The S7 tailstock cannot be fitted with a draw bar so it is quite easy for a drill chuck or an MT drill to slip free within the Morse taper socket when drilling large holes to the detriment of the tailstock barrel.

Eric

Guy.

Mau I suggest that you obtain a genuine Myford handbook for your lathe. Obtainable from "new" Myford or even as a PDF from the net. The handbook tells you all you really need to know about using and maintaining the lathe.

Eric

When testing your machined 16degree total taper always mount you test collet on piece of close fitting ground steel bar. If you don't do this the collet will flex and take give "satisfactory" result even if the taper you have bored is inaccurate.

Eric

Phil,

May I suggest that you obtain a copy of the official Myford handbook for your particular lathe. Myford hand books are excellent and tell you all you really need to know about adjusting and maintaining your lathe and can therefore save you a lot of trouble.

Copies are available from "New" Myford or even free as pdf from the net.

Eric

Dave,

Being in pedant mode this morning, I have to insist Eric's opening sentence should be 'No lathe can cut a truly accurate thread'. Never mind if it's imperial or metric.

Of course Dave is correct but we are dealing here with the practicalities of what can be achieved with an existing and probably a bit worn lathe.

The point about a 127 tooth gear is that 127 is prime number and cannot be factorised into anything other than 1 and 127. Dave is again correct that many combinations of other gears can be combined in a train to produce slightly inaccurate metric threads that may be acceptable for a particular application.

I also agree with Dave about over preciousness about striving for total accuracy where it serves no purpose but accept that we should make components as accurately as possible with the equipment at our disposal.

I enjoyed reading Dave's post and accept his is being pedantic in order to get some fundamental truths across.

Thank you Dave and best regards

Eric

Mike,

No lathe with an imperial lead screw can cut a truly accurate metric thread unless a 127 tooth gear is used. Despite this fact both the official Myford conversion set and the 33, 34 toothed input gear method are capable of producing metric threads accurate enough for all practical purposes.

The Myford conversion kit is both very expensive, is inconvenient and time-consuming to set up and then take down. The 33, 34 method only takes a few moment to set up.

I cannot understand why anyone would find the need to screw cut BA threads as a good set of taps and dies together with a tailstock die holder will do a very good and accurate job. In almost 60 years of model (and full size ) engineering I have never known anyone screw cut a BA thread.

Eric