Member postings for Peter G. Shaw

Hi Folks,

First, thanks for the suggestions. Although that wasn’t what I asked, it has given me food for thought. What is personally annoying, is that only yesterday (Thursday), I threw away a broken BS2 centre drill! A bit stupid really.

Second. About the MAX-T tooling which was my original query.

Bernard Towers.

I don’t know where you got German from – I couldn’t find anything, but maybe I was asking the wrong question via “the fount of all knowledge”! I found the Lowestoft firm with one director, and thought “A-Ha. A one man and a dog firm. Could his products actually be any good?” Hence the questions.

Andrew Tinsley.

My view of the Ebay listings all suggested Edge near Stroud in Gloucestershire whereas Chelmsford is in Essex. Don’t understand. Furthermore, the Ebay listings show a 2 year membership of Ebay, so perhaps not a fly-by-night firm, but not far off when compared with Chronos, RDG, ARC etc.

The thing is, MAX-T appears to be only supplied from Stroud, from someone, or something if a firm, which uses two names on Ebay.

So, the question remains: “Does anyone know anything about MAX-T tooling? And, as a matter of interest, I have done various searches using Google etc in an attempt to find a suitable engineering company at Edge, and of course, nothing doing, but maybe that’s me not asking the right questions again!

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

Howard,

Just the usual sort of thing, if one can say that. Actually, that might be an idea (boring bar with a small, say 1/8" toolbit clamped in it) to try, but after many years of using what could be called standard turning/boring tools, I suppose one gets stuck on one type of design.

Rather silily, I had a very good tool I obtained back in the dim dark ages, or so it seemed. I seem to think I bought it from one of our northern m.e. shops. It was capable of withstanding quite a lot of abuse. Unfortunately, I allowed my grandson to regrind it into a groove boring tool for an O ring: this was because I had another tool which seemed ok - until I broke it. I do have a 3mm HSS boring tool - circular bent design and the straight bit of the shaft is inserted into a piece of perhaps 7mm square bar with an appropriate hole drilled into the end. That's ok for small stuff.

I also have two tools which use carbide inserts but as a general rule, I'm not really a fan of carbide. Much prefer HSS which I can "adjust", grind, etc to give a smoother surface than the "liney" ones made by carbide. Having said that, I have used carbide in situations where HSS wouldn't cope. Horses for courses and all that.

I've also bought recently a 6mm boring tool, only to find that it needs a square sleeve to hold it, and the actual cutting part of it was rather long, perhaps a bit too long.

Maybe I'm just being picky.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

I'm in the market for one or more HSS lathe boring/turning tools having managed to break the one I was using. Ok, ok, perhaps I was a bit too heavy handed - mea culpa and all that. Anyway, there are a lot of MAX-T tools being advertised on you know where. MAX-T Engineering appears to be a 6 year old company registered in Lowestoft with one named person.

So, does anyone know of them? Has anyone used their products? Etc. Etc.

Please don't bother recommending the likes of Soba or Glanze, I know of these and may go down that trail.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

p.s. Just for the record, or maybe for fun, I'm also attempting to convert an old file into one such tool, but it's slow going.

Neil,

Your post, two entries above poses a somewhat different question to your original post which referred specifically to Issue 318.

As it happens, I don't really care what the front cover looks like, just as long as I can easily see the Issue No. Similarly, I don't usually bother with the Contents pages, except on the very rare occasion when I'm looking for something and my home database has let me down.

Perhaps I should explain. I have a database into which I make entries of any article which might, just might, interest me. This database contains both Issue No. and Date so either would do when searching. In addition, I scan into the computer any article which has more relevance for me, eg currently I'm attempting to make an endmill sharpening jig, and this system of complete entries had three entries all on this subject. I was thus able to read all three entries without having to search through all my back issues. These complete articles are referenced by Issue No, not date, hence my emphasis on Issue No.

What would attract new readers? I haven't a clue.

I wish you well in your quest.

Peter G. Shaw

Vic,

Reasonable idea, but please retain the Issue Number in its usual position and size. Placing it 1/4 of the way down and in tiny letters is just not on.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

DMB,

Wonder for how long before we're forced to accept digital only?

Don't give them ideas!

Peter G. Shaw

Not sure I like the idea - seems too much like rows & rows of identikit housing for the plebs, although I can see the attraction for undeveloped places.

Hmmm.

Peter G. Shaw

Now that someone's taken the trouble to reproduce Issue 13 cover, I agree, it is much nicer to look at. Although, I think the date could have been a bit darker as it doesn't really stand out. Anyway, I'm not going to look through 317 issues looking for the best looking...

As regards "young ladies", Neil, I sincerely hope I haven't upset your partner. It's just a phrase to use when you don't actually know their age.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

I think that on the whole it is too messy especially with the white lines separating the sections.

The Issue Number looks too small compared with previous issues, possibly making it more difficult to read when quickly glancing through looking for a particular issue. I’m not sure that moving the Issue Date adjacent to the Issue Number is particularly helpful, but then if I’m searching for an article I always go by the Issue Number as this is how my home database is organised.

I’m not sure that changing the relative sizes of “Model Engineer’s” and “Workshop” is really necessary. When all said and done, the magazine is not an alternative to “Model Engineer” and I think that having “Workshop” writ large helps to emphasize that point. Sorry Jason.

On the same lines, I think the top line, (Strap Line?) was fine as it was as it helps to differentiate MEW from ME. Plus the actual text used emphasizes who it’s aimed at.

To be honest, I’m a bit like Kiwi Bloke – I generally don’t look at the cover, other than the Issue Number, so it could theoretically be blank for me. As regards the young lady on Issue 317, well, is she young? How can you tell? But anyway, what’s wrong with it? I know historically the hobby has been the province of mainly elderly gentlemen, and we all know the reasons why, but why not have a few photos of the fairer sex? (Am I now in hot water for that phrase? Don’t care anyway.) Let’s show that workshop engineering is NOT the province of elderly men in dirty greasy overalls smelling of suds, or smoke, or whatever.

On the other hand, maybe I’m just an old fuddy-duddy.

Peter G. Shaw

Similar to Peter White above, I too use Linux (Mint in my case), have done since the demise of Windows XP, and thus have no problems with licensing etc.

One can, if necessary, use something like Oracle Virtual Box to run a Windows OS, but then there is still the problem of licensing. On the other hand, Wine, a program which runs under Linux, allows a large number of Windows, or more strictly Win32/64 bit, programs to run. It is fact that the early versions of Wine were not very good, but the later versions are much improved. But of course, there are Linux based programs which do the same or similar things as the Win32/64 bit programs.

I admit that there is a learning curve involved in using Linux, but once over it, you will be surprised just how good Linux actually is.

Highly recommended, free, and avoids the Microsoft hegemony.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

+1 for Mason's book "Using the Small Lathe".

I have found that some of the other books mentioned here are available through the public library. Unfortunately, I did find that some of the ideas within these books were either outdated or simply didn't apply in my case, eg, one of the "ancients" is all about the Myford - which I don't have. Mason's book also assumes the Myford lathe, but a lot of the information therein is generic and therefore applicable to any other lathe.

My suggestion is therefore to try the library before buying.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

p.s To Ketan. I well remember in my very early forays into this subject having to ask a work colleague what milling was! Such was my ignorance.

Well, there's a thing, my 19mm open ended spanner measures 19.2 to 19.5mm. Mind you, it is 60 years old, noticeably worn and was made by T.H.Williams.

Peter G. Shaw

This "handed" thing is, I think quite funny, or perhaps I should say peculiar.

I had a colleague who was so left handed that he had to swop knife and fork over. Other colleagues & friends simply seemed to use right hand for everything. I also have a grandson who appears to be a mixture - knife and fork for example swopped over, yet other stuff being right handed. As I mentioned earlier, I swopped over my mouse with no discernible effects - actually there was one in that when my youngest son swopped his mouse buttons round, that caused me no end of confusion.

I think the earliest I became aware of this was when I was asked by the class teacher to clean the blackboard so I got hold of the board rubber(?) and set about reaching up using my left hand only to be asked a) Was I left handed?, (No miss!) followed by b) Well why are you using your left hand? (Dunno Miss, I just am!). Since then I have found myself doing certain things automatically with the left hand, perhaps not as strongly as the right hand, but still lefthanded. But the oddest thing was when I came back from hospital having just had two stents inserted via my right wrist. I was instructed to avoid using my right arm for two weeks so when "boss lady" asked me to light the coal fire, I set about it using my left hand - until I tried to use the tongs when my left hand adamantly refused to work. Eventually, I noticed that every time I tried to operate the tongs, my right hand was making all the movements - so much for don't use it! After that, my left hand worked fine. A mental thing perhaps?

So Dave, yes, you may well find it difficult initially, but should improve with time.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 16/06/2022 11:04:09

, while my left hand is mostly idle

Nothing to do with the subject matter, but nominally I am right handed, so like SOD, my left hand would be idle...

Except that I started to suffer pains in my right hand, so I swopped to my left hand. I didn't bother changing the buttons over, simply used my left hand. No problems whatsoever.

Visitors, however, without exception end up moving the mouse so that they can use their right hand. Almost none of them seem capable of using their left hand! I find it quite comical watching them untangle the mess of cables so that they can use their right hand.

As I said, nothing to do with the OP's subject matter, just an anecdote.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

Tug,

Disagree with the "it's time to shut up and hand over to the next generation" comment. Yes, I know that I am slowing up, but not yet to the extent that I cannot learn something new. What does bug me is that life today is so much more complicated that it was 50 years ago. Fortunately, my style of model engineering hasn't changed!

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

Hi Tug,

I watched the video, and the one thing that stood out to me, was that it appeared to be designed to show JB Weld in a positive light. In other words it came across as a poorly designed advertising gimmick. Mind you, it's not helped by the fact that more and more I am becoming suspicious of US of A motives. But then, that's me.

Another thing that I disliked was the way the tests were done. I have always understood that the strength of any joint lay in how the joint was mechanically designed with the glue being there to prevent movement and stop the joint coming apart. So, for example, in the wood spar test, two pieces of wood butted together and glued simply would not be done in practice. Either a dovetail joint or a series of V shaped cuts (which allows for a much increased area for gluing) would be better. And even then I would use PVA rather than epoxy. Similarly, the idea of gluing bolt heads on to a metal bar is not one which I would ever do. Instead, I would drill & tap and insert from the other side, possibly using a countersunk or a recessed screw head. And follow up if necessary with something like Studlock.

In respect of high temperature and/or high pressure, I must bow to your superior knowledge - high temperature to me is anything too hot to hold, whilst high pressure is anything higher than my car/caravan tyres, 34/52 psi respectively!

As I said, I was struck by the similar colouring of JB Weld to Araldite Super Steel. Apparently JB Weld includes powdered metal, as, I believe, does Araldite Super Steel. Which makes me wonder just how far apart these two glues are in performance. I believe a better test, and certainly of more interest to me, would be to see a series of tests comparing JB Weld, the three versions of Araldite (Rapid, Standard & Super Steel), Evostik Epoxy & the epoxies sold by RS Components under their own brand name. Plus any other epoxies which are readily available on the retail market.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

I've always sworn by Araldite ever since I successfully used it to refix the block used to open & close the side windows on my A35 van. From memory, this block was about 50mm x 12mm. The windows slid up and down in a guide channel. I would describe both window & block as glass, but what type of glass? Well, that's anyone's guess, but it was transparent. This was probably about 1965.

Generally I have found Araldite reasonably reliable and has been my go to glue ever since, but that doesn't mean that JBWeld, or indeed any other epoxy glue isn't better. However, I was mildly surprised to see the colour of the two constituents and the resulting mixed colour. From what I remember, these are the same, or similar colours of Araldite Steel which claims to be the strongest of the three Araldite glues readily available (Rapid, Normal, Steel). This makes me wonder about the relative strengths between JBWeld & Araldite Steel.

One point about Araldite - apparently its strength is improved by gentle heating. I seem to remember Tubal Cain (T D. Walshw) commenting on this and saying that he left glued items on top of a storage heater overnight.

Interesting subject though.

Peter G. Shaw

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 05/06/2022 11:02:07

Might I suggest a search of the forum as there have been a number of threads concerning this topic. In particular, try a search for "Spiralux" and also a search for "Graham Meek - Mods to (copies of ) Picador drill grinding jigs."

I own one of the Spiralux jigs which incorporates a slight angle on the spindle around which the actual jig rotates. My reading is that this "lean" is beneficial. Sorry, I can't tell you what the angle is, or which way, although I think it's toward the grinding wheel. Obviously mine works which means that I haven't paid any real attention to these threads.

I have found that for drills below 3.0mm, well, forget it! For drills between 3.0 & 4.0mm, it is possible but requires a lot of care. Drills between 4.0mm and, oh, dunno, 10mm say, the jig is satisfactory - as long as you can get the drill into the jig. The end result is that for drills below 4.0mm, I buy in packs of 5, others I sharpen.

Grinding on the side of the wheel. Well, enough has been said already. It is acceptable as long as the loads are kept light.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

p.s Incidently, my biggest problem is that my grinder, bought some 30+ years ago, gets hot, very hot, sometimes too much to touch, if used continuously, hence I limit my grinding until the grinder becomes noticeably warm.

Mick B1

Wife can't remember, but as we were on holiday at the time, anything might have happened. Maybe a "pocket call" indeed, although I doubt it because a) knowing her she might well have been wanting to tell me she'd bought sarnies; and b) she doesn't keep it in a pocket. So I'm inclined to think perhaps a bit of confusion by perhaps mistaking it for our landline which does indeed have an answering machine on it.

old mart,

Well I never. You are quite correct, I do indeed have the symbol on Key 1! And yes, I did have to use option 3 to delete the mesage.

Hey, how about that, it's a learning experience!

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw

Corrected for spelling mistake.

Edited By Peter G. Shaw on 25/05/2022 19:00:38

John,

Orange rebranded as EE which was then acquired by BT

The rebranding I knew about from having to sort out my wife's 'phone. I was only dimly aware about the BT connection.

But once your phone was unlocked and you inserted an O2 SIM it had no connection whatever with Orange.

Which is what I thought, but couldn't see any other reason due to not knowing about the voicemail facility.

Bob D,

I suggest you try and rediscover the "123" number you mentioned.
My voicemail is recovered by dialing 222. Different numbers are used by the various service providers.

There is always the possibility that I got it mixed up with something else. Or even imagined it! TBH, I couldn't care less about voicemail - if people want to talk to me, then they should be using the landline - I purposely do not give out the mobile number. Quite what "herself" thought she was doing I don't know - I haven't yet discussed it with her.

Rather cynically, I learned to ignore telephones about 60 or so years ago for the simple reason that although I worked for what was then the Post Office Telephones division of the GPO, answering someone elses 'phone usually resulted in ending up being involved in something I knew nothing about. And from what I remember, I wasn't the only telephone technician doing that, so much so that many years later we were instructed that we must answer other peoples 'phones if they were away from their desk. And to make matters worse, if it was a customer, we were ordered to take responsibility for sorting out their problem. The end result is that I can quite happily ignore things like voicemail, 'phone calls where the number is withheld, calls from unknown numbers etc. This does lead to problems of course, eg this morning, we received a call from, as it turned out, one of my chemotherapy nurses. It came up as "Number withheld" so I ignored it. My wife answered it just in case because she does have a friend who hides her number, and consequently had to hand it to me. Anyway, for me, unless I'm expecting a call, I ignore the 'phone.

Doesn't say much for me that, does it?

Anyway, thanks to one and all.

Cheers,

Peter G. Shaw