Member postings for Gordon W

My Machinery Handbook is 11th edition, 1942, I found it in a dustbin, having been thrown out by a vicar. I often use it. Designed some springs for HGV brakes, and a very big gear for a rotating oven from info' in it. These items were old and imperial, so info' still good.

When I've this problem it's always been swarf trapped. Clean out, look for bits of metal imbedded in screw, pick out with a scriber or similar.

Would it be better to fit the pins before silver soldering , then solder everthing up together? Can't help but think the joint would be stronger, but have nothing to prove it.

Agree the steel is thinner and makes the opener not grip. Our old ,all steel, one stopped working and wife bought a new one. Very bonney looking with plastic handles etc. This stopped working very quickly. Examined the old one , "adjusted" the frame using vice and hammer. It now works well, it just fits the new tins better.

If you have no clean pans then boil your tin of beans un-opened. Should be OK because the tins are sealed at boiling point ? A standard Scottish sweety is made by boiling a sealed tin of condensed milk for a long time. Note- do not blame me if it goes wrong.

Will I have to check the speed of light before I can use my extension lead? It's near 50 metres long with rubber outer.

My brain does not work with these things, bad at best of times. The jumping ones will send me over the top. I'll have to stay in my armchair. Please stop.

Surely the water-displacement properties of WD40 are the point ? If there is no water then no rust? I would not expect long-term rust protection without slathering with oil or grease. It's good enough for a year and relatively cheap.

I would like to understand why some people have had bad experiences with WD40. I've been using it for many years with good results. The only thing it is not good at is as a release agent, but better than nothing. When the roof blew off my w/shop a couple of winters ago just about the first thing I got was a gallon of WD40, sprayed everything in sight. After a c lean up sprayed inside the drawers and cupboards where measuring instruments etc. kept. Now very little trouble, some staining, some rust here and there but easily wiped off. Lanolin is good, I buy it for cracked skin and found by chance it is a good rust protector. Difficult to find as pure grease, because of the anthrax. Got mine as "heat treated" from the land of the sheep Australia. Any thin oil will work for stuff in use.

I've been thinking about this time thing a lot recently, strange to find it on the forum. My conclusion, for what it's worth, is that it takes much longer to do things as we get older. 20 years ago I could service the car, dig over the veg. plot, then go into the little w/shop and bore a cylinder, then go out for a quick pint., all in a day. Now it takes me half a day just thinking about it. PS @ 75 now.

The sack barrow that Bikepete linked is the same as my new one. It goes thru' the house, does not spoil carpet or wood floor,.I've moved car engine over my very rough road and grass, in dry weather.

I'm going to do a similar job, hoping to use a sort -of fly cutter and mount the job on the cross slide. Adjust the radius of the cutter using a caliper and a bit of maths. put the cut on using the cross-slide. Well that's my hope.

Get a sack barrow,, one with pneumatic tyres best, not dear. The best thing I've ever bought.

All this N sea nostalgia is making me feel very old, was a methods engineer at Seal Sands building the things, well 2 of them. Now all being scrapped. As an apprentice worked at a foundry setting up foundry equipment for building what was to become the Hillman Imp, now that is a classic car !. I also live in NE Scotland, Heard of the Ythan fiddlers but more familiar with the pubs with similar names.

The dial gauge sounds just like mine. I had the same sticky plunger. Cleaned it with a rag and meths, then a couple of drops of thin oil , hydraulic ? , Works fine now, for the last 2 years.

I always decant thinners ,of whatever type, into glass bottles. Get the litre bottles and larger from the pub. rake about the bin for the screwtop.

For those of you, like me, who don't have the proper buttons-- Use ball races of whatever size is best. Old and worn races will do., a suitable washer to clamp.

Are they edible?

Obvious I know but keep the engine running when using these pumps. I hate the no spare wheel trend. Last two cars had to buy a wheel from the breakers.

Of course you may need a counterbore for a hex head and a socket, not just for hex drive keys.