Member postings for Ian S C

There is probably enough in this thread to make a short article for the mag, photos etc.

Ian S C

My gripe is trying to find split button dies, what you get these days are not much more than die nuts without the hexagon. I do have some with an adjusting screw to set the size, very handy when making a number of threaded parts all the same fit.

Ian S C

There is one currently being built, and a write up on Model Engine Maker/ MSM.

Ian S C

With a button die, use the Jacobs chuck with the jaws retracted as backup, rest the die, not the holder against the chuck. For a flat in the tail stock I use a valve lifter from a Continental O-300, this has a body 5/8" dia x 1 1/2" long, with a 1" head on it with a nice polished hard flat surface, this is good for starting dies square.

Ian S C

When I first got my lathe, I made a number ( probably a dozen) of running centres of a similar design (I didn't know of Sparey's book), I used what bearings I had, and made the centre from a bit of old car axle. I sold them as suitable for a wood lathe, and made them with #1, and #2 MT. $NZ 25 each twenty five years ago, not too bad for a practice exercise.

Ian S C

Had a go with a rattle gun today, it didn't work. Well the first gun just hissed air, and did nothing, so we got another one, that one worked, but was ineffective. Next Tuesday I'll put a bit of heat on the back plate, and have another go with the rattle gun. If it comes to a worst case situation I can turn the back plate off and make a new one, a slice off a bit of 4"/100 mm bar would do nicely.

Ian S C

How about old bike frames.

Ian S C

It is a good idea to get a diamond lap these in one form are a plastic strip about 20 mm wide x 100 mm long, and 4 mm thick with a pad about 20 mm x 40 mm containing the diamond lapping area, they can be got in 3 grades, fine, med, coarse. You can even get them in garden shops.

Ian S C

When I was at school we were shown how to cut Whitworth threads, when the thread will almost fit a nut, the thread tool was replace by a hand held thread chaser to cut the top and bottom radius. I,

I'v just come across a box full of inside and outside chasers, they need handles.150 yrs ago and threads were cut free hand with a chaser on a foot powered lathe.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 20/06/2018 10:24:26

Get a book, to get the idea of the shape of tools, " The Amateur's Lathe", by Lawrence Sparey is a good one although getting a bit long in the tooth, or "Introducing the Lathe", by Stan Bray.

1/4" square HSS is ample big enough, and before you attack the HSS, get a bit of scrap steel (anything will do), and have a practice on that, you can even make the shape with a file so that you can picture the shape. The angles are not too important, I'v seen some very odd looking tools that actually work. When you get grinding, take your time, rough out on the front of the wheel, touch up the edge on the side of the wheel, then either use an oilstone, or a diamond lap to polish the cutting edge, and radius the tip.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 19/06/2018 16:04:11

In my wood turning days (30yrs ago), I used to make candle sticks, sometimes with two twist, but usually three, these were just marked out ,then drilled free hand half way through to make a hollow stem. Now my nephew has one of these things, and it would probably do your job to. Nephew's grandfather got the lathe to make ornemental walking sticks.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 19/06/2018 15:32:57

Henry, there is also Steam Scene at McLeans Island, there seems to be quite a bit of interest in steam in Christchurch.

Ian S C

On the old flat belts some used Molasses, but then you had problems with mice eating the Molasses flavoured leather or canvas belt. The aerosol can would be handy, although I'v never found the need (yet).

Ian S C

Unless you want the strength of fibre glass, it's the old Paxolin board you want.

Ian S C

I got a cheap T link belt for my lathe from R.R. Fisher Ltd in Christchurch (NZ), less than half the price of Fenner belt. It took a bit to bed in, and it slipped, and as I used it I ended up removing three or four links, it now gives a good solid drive. Belt dressing may help, I'v never tried it.

Ian S C

Yesterday I went to a farm clearing sale, and had a look at an elderly Holbrook lathe (pre WW2), all the bits were there, change wheels chucks, a fixed steady, gap piece, and a lot of rust, I was tempted but didn't bid, it sold for NZ$200, abit under 100 UK pounds.

Ian S C

If you have a bit of old circuit board with a section with no holes, strip off any copper, and there you go, old boards tend to be larger, with larger areas without components.

Ian S C

Jason, I was just thinking the same as I read through the thread. Have you heard from Brian lately?

Ian S C

One person here has suggested that I make up a plate with a hex nut on it, and bolt that to the back plate in place of the chuck (good so far), but then use the small rattle gun that we have at the Menzshed, is that sceme OK, or will it stuff the bearings? Nut plate made, just needs the bolt holes drilled.

Ian S C

Old I laminations from a transformer.

Ian S C