Member postings for ega

RGN

I am no great authority on this but it would seem that you need to move the spindle slightly towards the tailstock.

Good luck!

RGN

It sounds as though your spindle is out of adjustment; this has been covered extensively on the forum.

I used to visit the Luton Arches Branch quite often and found the staff helpful; I believe some, at least, moved to the much larger Strood store. I wasn't aware of the parking problem - on the one occasion I visited I went on my folding bike.

It's a case of use it or lose it. The bricks and mortar store has some potential advantages: yesterday I took a suspect HDMI cable to Currys where they cheerfully tested it for me.

Swarf, Mostly!

Thanks for pointing me to your interesting profile.

The Wiki for MEW is, understandably, even lighter! I wonder whether the Wiki author(s) are members of this forum.

An internet search on "wiki model engineer" throws up interesting articles on Tom Walshaw, Martin Evans and Stuart Turner.

Hear, hear!

New members mostly give an indication of their whereabouts when introducing themselves; existing members who respond could encourage the new member to create a profile with location information.

I can confirm that the bronze bearing can be scraped to the spindle as I had this done professionally some years ago. It would be prudent to renew the tail bearings at the same time.

Would it be necessary to scrape in a *new* bearing?

I suppose it must be easier to re-sharpen a spotting drill than a centre drill.

As well as minimising the size of the plastic and wrapping it in paper I occasionally put a sheet of lightly-oiled A4 through as recommended by the shredder manual.

I watched the "first cut" video and thought the process seemed very long-winded; its cost-effectiveness depends on the nature of the job, of course.

It later occurred to me that if the tool became popular someone might market ply, etc pre-printed with the "domino" patterns and thereby save some time in setting up.

I was agreeably surprised by the price.

Is the reamer wanted for making a musical instrument? I am fairly sure that process has been covered in The Woodworker magazine.

I think that under the skin most T handled Allen wrenches are L-shaped. I have a few vintage wrenches with a genuine all-steel T form which are good for heavier work.

Needless to say, if the wrench is too tight for its proper screw the screw won't mind you using a suitable wrong size wrench.

Equally obvious, a good grinding rest makes reducing an oversize wrench relatively straightforward; I must try filing one some time.

I have found oil-tempered hardboard to be an excellent topping for workbenches. The product is harder and smoother than standard hardboard and more resistant to staining from oil and paint spills.

My impression is that it is less readily available today than some decades ago but someone did point out that it can still be had from large stockists.

I didn't know that the oil concerned was linseed or, indeed, that it was baked - thanks, Neil.

Edited By ega on 30/01/2018 15:16:25

Heidi Crocker:

It would be helpful to know what equipment you have available by way of hand and machine tools and, if you are looking for practical assistance, to have some idea of where you are. As you have started with a handsaw, I assume that "lots" does not mean hundreds or more.

The problem with hand and bench shears is avoiding distortion of the workpiece; the chassis punch is also likely to distort the resulting blank.What is the state of the copper - hard or soft - and what sort of finish do you need on the cut edges?

My supposedly abortive ad has now appeared - my thanks to anyone who facilitated this. I am still curious about the process.

I am experiencing a problem of a different kind:

I sign in, go to the Classifieds page and fill out the form to place an ad; on seeking to proceed I am taken to a dialogue with the alternatives of editing or deleting the ad; on selecting the former I am just offered the option of deleting.

I think I have used the service before successfully and am at a loss to know what I am doing wrong.

steamdave:

A refinement of your idea would be to wrap the arm/stalk in "Spirap" - the spiral plastic wrapping used by electricians. This might also limit movement due to machine vibration.

I would have been glad of a GA drawing.

My source is the 1939 Stanley "catalog". If you are interested I can post an extract to my album. I admit I was puzzled by this but I am no great expert and understand that numbering anomalies occurred.

Thanks for the link.

Helmer drawer units and a bottle of Snaps to help with the assembly.