Here is a list of all the postings JasonB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: After 2 1/2 years..... |
17/11/2009 07:33:23 |
Good job there, hope to have mine at that stage in the next 3-4 months
Jason |
Thread: Soft Solders |
17/11/2009 07:28:47 |
Assuming its just soft solder paste then I get mine from CuP alloys who sell it in small tins the size of Humbrol paint as a full container works out quite expensive.
I would think twice about using it for a pressure vestle though.
Jason |
Thread: 3"Allchin |
16/11/2009 16:58:12 |
Ralph post this on Traction Talk Forum (Model Engines section) at least one of the regular posters has a 3" Alchin and another a 5". There are also a few members from your part of the world
Jason
Edited By JasonB on 16/11/2009 17:00:06 |
Thread: Trevithicks dredger engine |
16/11/2009 16:54:13 |
Ken, the builder of the dredger that Richmond posted pictures of and that is at the top of this page told me that the valve gear as drawn does not work, so watch out before you cut any metal.
He also suggests using Tufnol for the two rods not timber.
Jason |
Thread: Pourable Machinery Chocks |
15/11/2009 19:37:35 |
Once its chocked & wedged level make some form of retaining box around the base and pour in a pure cement/water mixture, used on steel framed building so should be OK on a lathe and not expensive.
A self leveling compound would also work.
Jason |
Thread: Machinery Paint |
15/11/2009 19:34:38 |
Have a look at this current thread
Jason |
Thread: facing a cast iron casting |
15/11/2009 17:17:41 |
You will need to use a green grit wheel to sharpen the tools that come with it as they are brazed carbide tipped, a normal bench grinder wheel won't get them sharp
Jason |
15/11/2009 16:20:36 |
It could be that the castings are chilled, heard several comments that this is an increasing problem with Stuart castings. Chilling is when the molten metal cools too quickly and becomes very hard.
Try taking a deep cut for your first cut to get under any hard skin, if that still does not work then put the casting into a fire or woodburner for the evening and allow it to cool with the ashes overnight, hopefully this will normalise the iron.
Also keep the speed down to say 300rpm assuming its a 10V or H you are working on
Jason |
Thread: Which screw thread system to use? |
14/11/2009 10:35:16 |
Some Steam fittings are available with metric FINE threads mostly used in Europe so it would be possible to go all metric.
Not seen ME nuts and bolts either
BA is probably more use in the smaller scales than the bigger locos and traction engines, though they can still need small stuff. I've just made a couple of Split Pins 0.52mm dia to fit 1/16" pins.
Jason
PS David, it was not me asking about the articles
Edited By JasonB on 14/11/2009 10:36:13 Edited By JasonB on 14/11/2009 10:37:48 |
14/11/2009 08:32:28 |
UN are mostly found on models where the design originates from America, you will find it difficult to obtain in the UK taps, dies & fixings in teh smaller sizes such as 8-32, 5-40, etc
The BA range has smaller increments than metric and you will not need to start substituting material sizes. eg a 5BA thread will often be used on 1/8" stock but if you change to the nearest metric M3 the stock will also have to be altered to 3mm as well as any other parts, holes etc.
I also find the turned BA nuts look a lot better on a perood engine than the flatter metric ones.
If you were more into IC engines then I would say go metric but as most loco, traction engine and stationary engine drawings use BA I would stick with that.
You can always mix and match for example I am building a V twin ic engine that is drawn with UNC size threads as the design is American, but I am using metric threads but some are being cut onto imperial stock as its easier to obtain 5/52nd steel from the ME suppliers than 4mm.
Jason |
Thread: Flux for HMP soft solder? |
11/11/2009 17:20:05 |
Not tried it but Reeves do a flux for Comsol (305deg) called "Thesco SC5" could be worth a try.
And Cup Alloys also do a flux for their 296deg solder
Jason Edited By JasonB on 11/11/2009 17:22:06 |
Thread: Taper cutting |
10/11/2009 07:24:12 |
e-bay or go to the Myhobbystore link on the right and see if they have back issues available.
Jason Edited By JasonB on 10/11/2009 07:26:52 |
Thread: Which boring bar to get. |
07/11/2009 17:21:36 |
Why not drill a hole in a bit of square bar to suit your boring bar diameters and then saw a slit along one side. You can then hold this in any tool holder.
Jason |
Thread: Turning Eccentics in Three Jaw Chick |
06/11/2009 20:03:04 |
You may also find it by looking back at a few recent back issues on line, it was covered not that long ago in "Post Bag"
Jason |
Thread: Opus Proximum |
01/11/2009 20:35:32 |
There is one being built here you may want to ask about any drawing errors
Or is that you???
Jason Edited By JasonB on 01/11/2009 20:38:47 |
Thread: Information sought |
31/10/2009 20:39:37 |
Just found a site with a very detailed 8 page build diary of this engine. Click this and at the bottom of the page "zum bauberricht" will take you to teh build. Awsome work
![]() You may want to use a translator such as Babblefish to read it
Jason |
Thread: Work positioning in the 4 jaw chuck |
31/10/2009 07:44:59 |
Thats the usual way, I would skim the two ends to get a flat face on the billet first then mark out your ctr 3/4" from the ctr of the billet.
To get the ctr punch mark running true assuming you don't have a sprung center the easiest way is to put in the tailstock ctr then use another dead center with the MT end supported by the tailstock and the point in your ctr punch mark. Then run a dial gauge against the edge of the centre at the widest point of the taper.
Jason Edited By JasonB on 31/10/2009 07:45:50 |
Thread: Thread Form |
30/10/2009 17:53:30 |
There is no AF thread, but it is sometimes wrongly used as an abreviation for "American Fine " which should be refered to as "National Fine" for which the abbreviation is NF or UNF
AF is as you say a referance to the accross flats size of the bolt or nut hex head.
Jason Edited By JasonB on 30/10/2009 17:54:14 |
Thread: Riveting |
28/10/2009 20:40:01 |
About one and a half times the diameter or a fraction over is a good place to start. the actual figure is 1.6 times the diameter
Jason Edited By JasonB on 28/10/2009 20:42:29 |
Thread: 4363 in Back Issues? |
27/10/2009 17:41:00 |
Should the forthcomming issue number 4364 have been made available in the back issues as its still not the current issue?
Or is this for those that may recieve it late due to postal strikes
![]() Jason
Edit title should be 4364 Edited By JasonB on 27/10/2009 17:41:56 |
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