Member postings for Steviegtr

I have not taken any pictures yet as have been busy with setting up the lathe. The picture above the Morgan dollar's is a1948 half crown annealed & after the 1st push. I stopped at that because I was using a balling dome & ball. It started to mark the print. I now have some tapered stainless cones of various sizes & just got some Acetal to make tapered & parallel pushers. I also had trouble keeping the coin central whilst pressing the hole out. Had an idea after watching the American's do it. So looking to get a 2" pipe threaded coupling & a 2" cast blank plug. To make my own. Plus some cast reducers from 2" down to what I think will work. Coins you can wear on you tube is pretty much how I do it.

Steve.

How do you guys do it, the idea's you come up with, a lighter sparker. Just looked & it does look pretty much the pitch I would need. Thanks you David.

Steve.

The £5 coin I am going to try & stretch it so that most of the detail is kept. Obviously some of the centre will be lost. The art is in the annealing keeping the metal very soft so it can be stretched & shrunk. My friends who have seen some of my rings cannot get there head round how they are made.

Thanks for that info. Some more I will be doing. I have a Krugerand coming which is pure.

Well done. Darn good idea. Remember the Bus strikes way, way back. I used to go to town on a morning with the car full of people from the bus stop near me. Most smoked so car was worse than driving in fog.

Steve.

Ah did not realise it was a gearbox. Oops

Steve.

Forgot to say I am looking for a parallel Knurl for the lathe to recreate the edge of the coin. It will have to be very fine though & only a single wheel one. If anyone knows of a supplier. All the ones I have seen are much too coarse. Also need to make some stepped arbours so I can install in the chuck of the lathe to work on the outside of the rings without damaging them.

Steve.

Something I had a go at recently. The old 2 shillings & half crowns are a popular ring to use. But are 50%Nickel 50% Zinc. Pre 1920 british silver coins had .925 sterling silver content. So much better to use but expensive to buy. Just bought some Morgan 1881 Silver Dollars to do. They are 90% Silver. I wore the half crown ring for a few days & it did make my fingers go a bit black. Ones made of none precious metal need either a coat of clear laquer of which I have gallons of 2 pack from doing my write off cars & bikes rebuilds. Or maybe some way of anodising. Got stacks of coins to go at. There was an issue of, sort of destroying coins but seems like no one gets bothered by it. Obviously the coins I am practicing on are no longer tender. There was some bylaw in the states saying that you cannot alter currency that will make it worth more than the ring value. The half crown shape is what is termed the fat tyre. Popular in the states where they use a large ring. Smaller coins not so easy as you have to stretch the metal & lot & the writing is much harder to read. That half crown was annealed 6 times during the process. They work harden very quick once you start to reform them.

Edited By Steviegtr on 20/01/2020 22:47:01

My 1st job an apprentice sheet metal worker involved a full college lecture on gases. The Oxygen was usually at 2000psi full & liquid. The Acetylene was a spongy mass & much heavier to move & was 225psi. Then they brought in anti backfire arresters. Big signs saying no oil near oxygen. Learnt to braze gas weld at 15 years old it was a great 6 mths till I changed careers & became a Sparky. I never did any Silver soldering. Watched my mate do the boilers of his steam engines though.

I wouldn't mind one in my workshop.

Brilliant. Love it. Well done.

Well I know a lot of Classic british bike owning guys. They all use the old Mineral straight oil. I have many times said why on earth don,t you put some semi synthetic oil in. The answer is always that you cannot because the engine tolerances & the way it is lubed will not work.

Well Brazing usually is done with an oxy acelylene torch, or that's how I always did it. You need a lot more heat for brazing.??? Both are only gluing the metal together hence years back I had a MOT failure on a car because I had brazed sill on. With silver solder when it reaches is melting point the solder flows instantly & sinks in to the joint. Brazing does in a way but so much so.

Sorry to add a pic. It looks in one picture that one is not flat. It is where I filed the burrs off, which is showing missing paint. Better pic.

Managed to get the 4 jaw chuck fitted. Need a proper back plate when i can locate one. It runs fine up to around 900rpm & after that is a bit out of balance. Great addition though. Got the toolholders cut down to the size I require. Had a txt to say my QC toolpost has cleared customs & out for delivery. Fingers crossed I will have it in a few days. Then i can see if it was a mistake buying the larger one. These take up the 13mm Not sure what size you can get in the 000 version. In one picture cutting oil can be seen up the back wall. I need to make a decent splash back.

Edited By Steviegtr on 20/01/2020 21:37:13

Yes & if you listen to Steve Jordan on you tube he raves about the ebay ones & bangood. But maybe he would. Wouldn't you if they were free.

Steve.

Have you got the brake plate in the correct position, i tried to zoom in on your picture.

A friends wife has had it for a few years now. It has got quite bad.

Monday's job is to drill & tap the backplate to take the 4 jaw chuck. Then to machine the 250-101 toll holders down by 4mm. Not recommended by most forum members.

Takes me back to my 1st car, a Morris miner 1000. Then 1100, then twin carbs & 3 branch, then 1800 MGB engine & gearbox,, then the car broke in half. Traveller model with alloy roof & bolted side beams was never very strong. Lightened flywheels were a good way of getting the engine to rev more freely but often became lumpy at the bottom end. Bought a MGB GT after that. Jesus that was 50 years ago. Need to sort out a funeral plan & my will.