Member postings for AJAX

I've not used a dividing head, but I'm guessing the plates don't need to be particularly robust. Would a laser cut and engraved plate in 4 or 5mm cast acrylic be acceptable? I could do a run of them if they proved ok.

VAT and other charges are all now included. There shouldn't be any surprises.

This link will help answer your question

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/18212/whats-the-third-wire-on-a-piezo-buzzer

Photo is not clear but I think it may state IEC71 frame size. Google the full code and you'll find tables showing the standard dimensions.

A capacitor may fail for reasons other than voltage rating. I had a 240V induction motor that was fitted with a starting capacitor that had a much lower working voltage rating, about 120VAC if I recall correctly. This seemed low, but on investigation I found voltage across the capacitor was always considerably lower than the supply voltage, presumably due to inductive reactance of the winding.

Looking at the Lathes website, it like quite similar to my backgeared QDM750. Are you confident you have engaged the gears correctly? It is possible that you have not engaged a pin that locks a gear to a pulley. The drill chuck will likely spin until you exert any downwards pressure.

Brian

Edited By AJAX on 27/03/2022 19:44:25

Good advice.

If the motor hums but does not turn at normal speed then you should disconnect the power before you burn the motor windings out.

If it is a single-phase capacitor-start motor then it should be possible to run the motor by turning the spindle (ideally close to full/synchronous speed) and then applying power. Depending on access, it may be possible to do this with the motor still connected to the machine. It would be advisable to disengage the motor from the drive train before attempting this procedure. If you use a "pull-cord" to start the motor (as demonstrated in the linked video) it is ESSENTIAL the pull cord is fully released from the motor spindle BEFORE power is applied. Also, do not wrap any cord around your hand! If the motor then runs under power you can then look at the capacitor (likely culprit) or the centrifugal switch. The linked video also shows how function of the centrifugal switch can be checked using nothing more complex than a battery and light bulb.

Try keeping them on permanently, in a temperature controlled room. Report back in 25 years. I may not be around for the update.

Martin,

This web page states the knurled component is the chuck extractor, as I previously suggested.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/pillar-drill-identification.65649/

I hope that helps,

Brian

I never realised those sleeves could be removed (but it makes sense). I'm going to have to look at my drains now as it always bugged me I couldn't clean them properly.

Edited By JasonB on 21/02/2022 18:35:11

Martin, you may find this drill has a fixed male arbor onto which a female chuck is mounted. If so, the arbor would not be removable so you should go easy on persuading it out. I can only recall one Meddings drill with a fixed arbour (possibly fitted with a B16 nose) but when I phoned Meddings they said it was a cheap import they had badged as Meddings -- a short-lived trial if I understood correctly. I don't think your drill falls into that category.

If you need wedges, I've found it easy to make disposable ones using an angle grinder and scraps of mild steel flat.

Martin, you may find this link useful to identify your machine.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/meddings-pacera/

I had a look at your album photos but was unable to find a match. Are you sure it is a meddings? I used to have a startrite drill with something similar looking on the arbour. Wife has a 10 speed startrite with an epicyclic gearbox on the spindle but it accepts a standard mt2 chuck. Also have other Meddings drills but they are Morse taper too.

If you unscrew that knurled ring upwards, does it act as an extractor?

Oops, just noticed the red arrow pointing to the off board connector. I was looking at the PCB. If you want an incredibly simple in line connector, how about a straight through WAGO style connector?

Do a search for JST connectors.

If I'm looking at the same ones as you, they look like junk and not suitable for production use. Not wishing to seen rude, but are you serious?

I agree with the suggestion of hold downs, jigs and stops.

You could even get an old multi head drilling table which comes t slotted and ideal for these jobs. They can be picked up cheaply.

I wondered that at first, but it seems to lack any useful adjustment. And those two points are not ground for cutting.

I'm trying to figure out what this thing is. It's on a Morse taper (obviously) and the two outermost points have a spacing that lacks adjustment. I'm not sure what it could be used for other than maybe a drive dog of some sort. Perhaps it was made for a specific task? If anyone knows, I'd be interested to learn something new.

Meddings M4/3 and M5/3. Pulley and backgear driven, up to 25 mm in steel I believe. They are certainly substantial in build.