Qualters and Smith Qdm750 Restoration

Found it, that won't remain visible for long, but I can finally start this project now I have some space.

First job was cleaning the column up.

I'm pretty sure this machine came straight out of a school judging by the 'pillar drill' sticker on the base.

I hope when this forum is updated, they tablet ease of use is addressed, I've have to create a new message because it's almost impossible to insert the curser below a photo to continue writing.

Anyway, now I have the head on the bench, can start to disassemble it

When is this site getting revamped? this is incredibly annoying having to create a new msg every time a photo is inserted.

The quill around the hole used to remove tooling from the morse socket is immaculate, as is the quill, I don't think this has seen much use at all, they're often dented up quite badly around that area.

worth noting the quill travel on this drill is very useful 135mm, and fit inside the bore is what you'd expect on a milling machine, no noticeable movement when pushing it side to side.

The pinion handle is located on a shaft with a keyway, after 40 odd years needed a bit of assistance.

The pinion itself was in excellent condition, most probably the original grease still on there.

The back gear knob held on with a grub screw.

2 cap head screws holding the front pulley steady.

This needed a little pull to help it off.

The spindle assembly then slid out.

2 small hex head screws held the front pulley assembly on, not sure if there are supposed to be more? as more than 2 holes?

Then off came the front pulley assembly, that's as far as I got this evening, those who have stripped one of these down before feel free to explain how this assembly comes apart, from what I can see it looks like the pressed plate that sits in the head casting comes away from the pulley?

Edited By Pete. on 28/10/2021 20:42:31

Pete,

The tin plate bearing holder has 5 holes in it and the casting has 5 matching tapped holes (1/4" UNC). this is to allow both components to be used for either backgeared or non backgeared drills (QDM 750 for the former, QDM500 for the later and a option on the QDM625 of either BG or Non BG )

The plate is deftly levered off the bearing using a small pry bar - once it starts to move after levering the outer edge between the small back gear spindle gear, then move to levering between the centre race and the inner cup of the plate. It is surprisingly easy to get it off (even when heavily corroded like mine was ). Be warned that this may need the bearing replaced on rebuild especially the top bearing which will need a puller. The plate is easily tapped 'straight' on a flat surface with a light hammer after use of the pry bar.

When replacing the upper bearing support bracket, tap the two dowels back so the bolts can be inserted first and started and the upper bearing snugged into its housing with light taps. Then drive the dowels in afterwards. Also work the quill up and down whilst snugging the lower plate bearing holder so that is all lines up without bind.

I would appreciate details of your quill lock (pictures and dimensions of the parts) as mine is just a 3/8" grub screw, which presses onto a spigoted 'bullet' which fits the quill keyway. the bullet is brass whereas others I have seen are steel.

What is your machine serial number? Mine is 17J19U321 but the 3 maybe a 'B' or '5'

Your machine is in excellent condition compared to how mine was when I received it. BTW what motor do you have on yours - mine was made in USSR, CI body but surprisingly quiet, and it ran! after standing outside for 5 years, 3 phase now wired 220v delta from star 415 v original.

PS I added an extra screw in the tin plate bearing holder at the 5-O-Clock position, the bull wheel fouls the other tapped hole at the 1-O-Clock position.

Martin

Forgot to mention that I had a problem getting the elevating post for the top cover out of its housing. As I see yours is still attached. The 'pull' knob to release the post does not 'pull' far enough when fitted, so, release the body nut a few turns to get the post to disengage all the way from the detent.

Martin

Pete,

Another point I've just noticed - in the photo, last but one above showing the Bull wheel of the back gear on the pulley, I see you have removed the 'balance bolt' it doesn't do anything other than balance the pulley assembly and is not part of the strip routine. These drills with the high speed motor option would spin up to 3000 rpm so balance was important. Sorry if I'm telling you to suck eggs, but it had me baffled as to what it did!

The other point is all the bolts and Allen keys are imperial sizes. The picture showing you with the water pump pliers on the lower bearing retainer plate made me wince a little - naughty boy!! If you haven't got a 7/16th AF spanner a 11mm is spitting close to bull's eye.

Martin

Hi Martin, thanks for the info, I'll check the quill lock adjuster later and give you the details, I did notice some machines didn't have this, which seems like it would be a bit inconvenient.

The pull knob for the top cover was missing on mine, it was a piece of square metal flapping about on a hex head bolt.

Yes so far I'm quite pleased with general condition, I bought it from a dealer in Birmingham on ebay for £250, at the beginning of lock down so had to get delivered, the guy called me and said he'd have to add vat on the price as stated in the listing, I told him it didn't say this in the listing, he'd missed it out on this one but had written it in other listings, he got flustered and said he'll have to add vat to the pallet courier then, which was nonsense, but I had no option to collect it so never mind, at around £340 delivered it wasn't bargain basement money, but I think a fair price for a good machine, if you see any dealers on ebay trying to add vat on top of the price, report them for avoiding fees.

Don't worry Martin, those aren't waterpump pliers, they're Knipex pliers wrench, probably the best tool to avoid damage to fastener heads, I'd highly recommend them.

Hi Martin, the quill lock screw has 1/2" diameter and 16 tpi.

The screw sits inside a screw in plug? for lack of a better name, with a bronze or brass key like lock, it works very well, very little effort is needed to lock it.

For any future owners who stumble upon this, this nipple on the left hand side is an oil nipple that drips down on to the quill bore.