Member postings for DiogenesII

Sarah was somewhat before my time but I'm given to understand her Lady Macbeth was unparalleled..

.. nothing raises the right answer quicker than a wrong one 🙂

..I misread 'Metropolitan' as 'Metropolitain'..

Surprised you never got a response - Looks to me like it's probably based on the early rolling stock of the Paris Metro;

Wikimedia Commons - Gare de la Bastille

Edited By DiogenesII on 22/08/2023 07:39:35

Looks like a good instrument - how much is it?

If I had a choice between buying a co-ax indicator or a DRO, I'd buy a DRO.

If you have a DRO you probably don't need a co-ax indicator.

I see that RDG have the 'two-piece' screw on ones back in stock..

I think they look worn - the bottom sliding gear dogs are rounding off - compare engagment in top photo with that in the lower..

..but is it a cause or a symptom?

I use Mitutoyo calipers - mainly because as you say, they are well-engineered - they perform (and perform consistently) for years, use hardly any batteries, rarely need adjustment, and will stand being dropped occasionally.

The one I have now has been my sole workshop caliper for maybe 5 years, can't remember if I've ever changed the battery (?maybe?), I've tweaked the gib screws once and reset the origin once (after dropping it). I'm in the workshop at least once a week, was more over 2020 / 21. It's a farm workshop.

Original purchase price was £75, I expect to get at least another 5 years out of it (dependent on local gravitational anomalies), so hopefully will cost ~7 per year for an excellent caliper offering reliable and trustworthy measurement.

I think pretty much every generic boring head of that common (? shall we call it 'Criterion-pattern' ) style that I've ever seen uses a 1 1/2 x 18tpi arbor..

I swap three arbors around on mine depending on what I'm using it on.. ..dial and tooling is metric

Edited By DiogenesII on 12/08/2023 19:48:22

Edited By DiogenesII on 12/08/2023 19:48:44

Edited By DiogenesII on 12/08/2023 19:49:25

I've had a couple of dies where the dimples were poorly formed / located and would pull the die off-square even when used in a decent holder.

Does anyone regularly use a T / chipbreaker type in stainless?

..in the context of not having to have a statutory flashing red 'High in Sodium' warning beacon fitted to every pack?

..yes, I ran out of 'reach' - there is nearly as much blade sticking out as there is left in the tool holder..

I can't remember what the cut depth was but well over 30mm using a 19mm 'high' blade. The stock is 100mm diameter.

Just wanted to show that these tools are capable of giving good service under less than ideal conditions.

Trees are better growing in clumps, they more quickly establish an active working community of other organisms and a local microclimate that contributes to their establishment and ameliorates the threat of windblow as well as providing a more useful habitat for other forms of life.

Boulevard planting always delivers higher rates of tree mortality and has much less cooling affect as clump planting.

Edited By DiogenesII on 04/08/2023 06:46:44

You don't think they could have been JIS then?

I've bought satisfactorily from this outfit more than once, including belts for the ML7;

Lathe Spares - Myford ML10 Spares

If you are after a cheap boring head, Warco currently have some in their sale, <£40..

Shed envy for sure

Different blades - because the tooth rake angles are different.. ..I'd guess the stainless one is aggressive to reduce the risk of work-hardening the stock during the cut...

..deeper gullets / bigger chip clearance..?

Makita say their 305mm blade in the LC1230 will cut ferrous & stainless steel

Edited By DiogenesII on 31/07/2023 20:09:51

Edited By DiogenesII on 31/07/2023 20:16:43

A useful historical discussion /instructions here;

1920-1930.com.. ..Things To Make.. ..Harmonographs..