Member postings for old mart

You will have to make a suitable drawbar in M10, your original one is 3/8 BSW.

This firm advertises imperial er32 collets, they are better than the ebay lottery.

Pipped at the post by emgee.

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Edited By old mart on 04/05/2021 17:38:08

It looks like a shop made mic to me. I have a beautiful 0-1/2" in tenths Mitotoyo mic, satin chrome and carbide anvils, I bought it as a novelty, but it does come in handy in tight spaces.

At work, we had thousands of gauges in the stores, all sizes, and every one of them was returned to the inspection department for re certifying before being returned to the stores.

There are even more chinese restaurants and takaways there, so the old fat has to go somewhere.

I have never noticed any adverse affects, in fact using lots of magnets when machining cast iron helps to control the mess.

With the R8 collets, there is no leeway for size, the tool shank diameter must match the collet. Assuming you have that match, then degreasing the collet and cleaning the bore with a bottle brush might help. Then, as the shanks of carbide cutters are usually very smooth and slippery, you could rub the shank with a diamond lap, say 1000 grit to give a little grip. Only a tiny bit of roughness will help.

More people tend to use er collets , the er25 holds up to 16mm, or er 32 for bigger sizes.

As Jason advises,5 or 6mm / 1/4" threads, or even 2BA would be fine. Stand the RT in its vertical position and drill about 5 holes between each tee slot. The other part could be free standing opposite the vertical base.

If you only want to mill small workpieces, then go ahead. The milling experiance will be useful, and should you later decide to get a mill, then the milling attachment can be sold fairly easily.

There is no reason not to if the work requires it.

Arc don't seem to have one, but Cutwell do:

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A bit of heat, as advised should be a permanent remedy. Unfortunately drilling a keyless is not really worth it as the centre is threaded as part of the mechanism and the core diameter is not very big. Ordinary chucks are perfect for drilling.

If, the backgear shaft is above the spindle, there is a possible option of fitting a pair of eccentric bushes to allow a bit of adjustment, up to 1/16".

I had a look at the bottom with the endoscope through the gap where the rising main goes up alongside the 110 waste. There are too many frame members on the way, the knife wasn't visible from the top either. I am just too arthritic to spend time in awkward positions.

Unfortunately, there are some nails projecting on the inside which put paid to the magnet on a string approach, the knife is indeed magnetic.

I have just googled "gear shaft spacing", and the results may be of interest.

I don't think I would have any chance of fishing for it but the link to Heinnie Heynes has knives in all price ranges, and I have bookmarked them for further study. The lost knife was over 100 years old, my grandfather gave it to my mother before I was born.

When I was repairing my bathroom waste system, (another thread), I dropped my grandfathers little stainless steel double bladed penknife down the cavity which encloses the 110m vertical waste pipe. There is no way to recover it, so I thought I would buy a replacement. Easier said than done, does anyone know a source of these knives?

I have had similar trouble with 638, it can be very fast setting. The solution found by studying the Loctite specs was to get some 620. This is similar in strength, but much slower curing. As long as you can hold the components in their positions then it is recommended.

I would prefer the Stanley type over the scalpel, they are safer to use on cardboard. Less likely to suddenly fracture and fire off a sharp projectile.

I buy Irwin bimettalic blades if I can.