Use of small rotary table limited by lack of end stops

Hi - I have had a small 5" diameter rotary table for a number of years but have always found it to be of limited use because of the lack of end-stops which would otherwise make the job of radiusing the ends of small rods a lot easier task. The table does not have the usual slot around the outside edge where you would normally fit a pair of lockable stops and I do not have the means of putiting one in.

Can anyone suggest what my options are in overcoming this problem with perhaps some ideas on alternative means of fitting end stops . The 2" angle bracket shown attached to the table enables it to be bolted down to the milling machine.

Series of tapped holes around the outer edge. Then make some crescent shaped stops with slot so that you can adjust then either side of whatever screw hole you fix them with.

You can do as Jason suggests.

Another that does not need modifying the table is to make a sort of extended T-nut held in a spare slot by a couple of nuts, to project beyond the base to engage a suitable stop-block (could be made from clamp-set parts) set to the right position on the milling-machine table. (Or on that angle-plate)

You could make two narrow strips (5mm) that go round the table. At the ends silver solder small blocks that are drilled and/or tapped to allow the bands to be clamped tight.

Add a post close to the table that the blocks will hit then adjust the bands to act as end stops.

You could add fine adjustment screws too.

As Jason advises,5 or 6mm / 1/4" threads, or even 2BA would be fine. Stand the RT in its vertical position and drill about 5 holes between each tee slot. The other part could be free standing opposite the vertical base.

Except for GHT's book I have never seen a rotary table set up for stops. I have owned several rotary tables and all had degree markings on the OD of the table. Greensand's RT does not appear to have graduations on the table or the worm. There are web sites that permit one to create custom dials or scales. I suggest printing a scale 0 to 360 and the length equal to the circumference of his TR. Glue the scale to the rim of the RT. When rounding the ends of work or rounding corners I think it would be sufficiently accurate to work from degree mark to degree mark.

Mount a low power laser light onto the table and then mark the limits onto your wall or piece of card or what have you.