Member postings for old mart

Welcome to the forum, Wayne, it certainly is an interesting machine. I would personally choose a 1 hp motor, 0.75Kw and a VFD since its quite old and needs a gentle touch. And keep the maximum rpm below 1400.

Thanks, Jason, that thread is very interesting. As for the taper of the arbor, With the chuck dismantled, I could get a reasonable measurement of the end of the arbor and compare it with the outer end. Having some very heavy metal blocks and a suitable thick walled tube, it was easy to break the taper with a large punch and a club hammer. I have measured the taper and it is close to J33,

J33 0.624" x 0.5604" x 1" length.

Arbor 0.624" x 0.581" x 0.903 length.

Edited By old mart on 17/10/2021 18:48:53

If you run the mag at 3000 rpm it will outlast the motor.

I have a 100mm 4 jaw independent chuck in a cupboard at the museum, marked Crown, and foreign. You reminded me that this 1/2" chuck has foreign marked next to the MT arbor. The screws are 8-32, replacing the original slotted ones which had seen better days, I had expected 4mm, or 3BA, but the 32 tpi gauge was the best fit and they screw in nicely. The design would work with hexagonal bar stock, but 1/2AF would be too big on the corners.

Edited By old mart on 16/10/2021 21:37:30

VFD's can be programmed to give a very slow gentle start and also slow stop, wouldnt this be adequate to run your old motor?

One of the unusual items left to the museum with other tools is this little 1/2" two jaw chuck. It was on a MT1 arbor which I removed to find out which Jacobs taper it had. It looks like it is intended to hold round stock up to 1/2". I took it to bits and cleaned it up a bit to find out whether it is worth getting a J33 x MT2 arbor for it. I fitted it onto a 12mm ground steel bar running 0.0005" tir and it runs about 0.004" tir on the body (the original MT1 arbor may be bent). I initially thought it was for holding taps, but the jaws make more of a hexagon shape.

I have some pictures, but have forgotton to add them to my album before posting this thread.

Edited By old mart on 16/10/2021 20:42:06

Motorcycle wheels commonly rely on just the seals built into the bearings, even trials and scrambles machines, so you may be worrying too much.

The type of indexable cutter I mentioned is not designed to plunge cut more than about 0.01", 0.25mm because it cannot cut in its centre. With that limitation, you could run sideways after the start and cut a groove in several depth steps, or you could use a smaller centre cutting mill to produce a narrower groove before using the bigger one. These indexable mills are available from 10mm diameter with one insert right up to 100mm diameter with about 8 inserts. The shell mills which fit on an arbor to suit your spindle start from about 40mm 4 insert, below that they are usually solid shank. I have a 25mm one with the shank turned down to 20mm to fit an R8 collet.

The indexable type are cheaper and the Chinese inserts for steel or aluminium are very cheap, and they are double ended so a box of 10 has 20 cutting edges.

Edited By old mart on 15/10/2021 18:16:08

That is a lot to pay for one cutter. I wonder if you could get by with a 1" diameter indexable cutter. The type I had in mind uses APHT 11 or 16 inserts.

This is what I mean. In the USA or Canada, similar products would be more likely to be in inches rather than metric.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills/90-Indexable-Carbide-End-Mills

Edited By old mart on 14/10/2021 20:14:04

Welcome, bjk, I personally think that you would be better off avoiding a plastic chuck, there will be plenty of common old cast iron ones available foro the suppliers advertising on this forum, not to mention ebay.

My estate was built in the early 70's and a lot of the BT cabling was in cheaper aluminium. This corrodes quicker at the joints and is one reason why Openreach vans are everywhere 7 days a week. When SKY try to get me to come back to them, I remind them of this and they have no definite answer.

It has just been confirmed that SKY will be ditching satellite for fibre optic. This is not exactly unforseen, but it will affect many people who live in the country and who are never likely to have a fast internet connection.

I changed to Virgin some time back as soon as their fibre was installed. This was not because I was not happy with the satellite tv that SKY provided, but because the old BT phone lines were slow and unreliable. In my area, Weston Super Mare, there is a second company, City fibre about to install another lot of fibre optic cabling, that seems like overkill to me, especially as there are many areas which do not have any at all.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-58828822

Edited By old mart on 10/10/2021 14:58:16

It depends mostly on how skilled you are, little tricks such as moving the start point of the hole before finally committing yourself, and many people cannot drill square to the surface to save their lives.

There are two possibilities for the stiffness, there might be some muck in a difficult to detect place, or maybe the chuck is in an unworn condition and the parts are close fitting. You did oil all the moving parts, I trust.

G'day, Tom, welcome to the forum, you have everything that the members of this forum love, machinery and old British motorcycles.

The two studs may have the dual purpose of holding whatever was intended to sit on it and locking the rotation. Take it apart and all will be revealed.

Now you have a stock of them, keep the blunt ones as they look like they could be resharpened easily with a diamond lap.

8.8 is only one step up from a gutter bolt in strength and hardness, so should be easy with anything you try.

Steve, you may be a beginner, but you certainly are not an idiot. There is always a learning curve for anything and by making mistakes and solving the problems you will soon become proficient and be able to help others.

I have two 12",300mm chrome face stainless steel Rabone/ Rabone Chesterman rules that have millimeters and half millimeters on one side, and 1/16, 1/32 and 1/64 of an inch plus 1/10, 1/20, 1/50 and 1/100 of an inch. I find the 1/100" rather difficult to see and use, and the half millimeters difficult also. With the metric side, I prefer to use the millimeters and judge the parts of by eye.