Member postings for old mart

Asking constant questions is fine, but you will still have to sort out the good answers form the daft ones, thats the fun of forums

You could use clamps to hold down the plain side of the plates to the mill bed, but having some holes at the right pitch to suit the tee slots would do no harm to the plate and be more secure. If you have 10 mm studs for your tee slots, then drill the holes a little larger, say 12mm. Deburr the edges on both sides of the holes. Depending on the width of your mill bed, the hole spacing could be made to fit the plates either way round.

Where I worked, there was a miller called Wally who ran a gigantic Wadkin mill with 25 hp and a BT50 spindle. His party piece was to throw teaspoon sized chips around the machine shop. People used to rig up sheets of hardboard to protect themselves from the fallout. He had a 300mm shellmill with about 50 inserts and ran it to its full capacity. The machine had a horizontal spindle and a bed of about 5 x 10 feet, and stood 18 feet high. Wadkin are better known for woodworking machinery.

Check your Z height before fitting it Mt2 should cope admirably. 

Edited By old mart on 03/10/2020 17:11:52

SOD has the best diagram of the two types, it shows clearly the difference and why, if your bed has lots of backlash, why climb milling can grab the work and pull the lot suddenly with unfortunate results. I normally take smaller cuts/feed rates climb milling than with conventional milling.

You can get closed cell foam rubber sheet in various thicknesses which could be bonded to the plate with double sided tape.

The answer has been posted by the people who actually worked at the factory.

I think you are lucky to be alive.

What size is your lathe and do you have a four jaw independent chuck?

I don't understand your diagram at all, but climb milling is when the cutter wants to roll along the work and conventional milling is when the cutter wants to roll back the way it came.

I worked with a bloke from Nottingham, and he was always going to the caastle for a baath, whereas I went to the carsle for a barth.

I would empty the box take the drawers out and put everything in an airing cupboard if you have one, or for a week or two in a dry place. Its a shame we are into October, or a couple of weeks in the attick would dry everything out.

PVA glues are water based which explains why sticking a nail in the top results in rust. There is no acetic acid associated with PVA glues, that is the common type of silicone sealant, although there are silicone sealants which are acetic acid free.

More like 60tpi than 16.

Ihate it whenever I see a vehicle proudly displaying "zero emissions", some people actually believe it.

Back in the 70's I worked for a small firm reconditioning test stands for aircraft oxygen regulators for pilots breathing masks. These were owned by the RAF. They contained a vacuum chamber with a fold down glazed door about 12 x 10 inches with tempered glass in it. I made the mistake of fully stripping one of the cast iron doors and it was the roughest casting imaginable, with up to 1/8" thick filler in it to make it look good.

I come from the south of England and never heard of the car being called Awstin except by the ok yars, who have always pronounced things differently.

Tony at work used FC3 1/8" end cutting throw aways to cut an axial locking pin hole on the inside of Hercules C130J propellor hubs. The holes were half in the aluminium hub bodies and half in the rear of the inconel studs which held the hub onto the gearbox output shaft. Not a job for the inexperianced or faint hearted. He used a huge SIP jig borer.

Edited By old mart on 29/09/2020 13:46:54

I bought a 6" Soba RT which has horizontal and vertical with four tee slots. The vertical position needs clamping down on the mill drill, but the Tom Senior slots are just right. In the vertical position, I was concerned with its stability, and have drilled and tapped a pair of 8mm in the base to bolt on a small angle plate which can be clamped to the mill bed. I would go for the largest that you think will fit your machine, 5 or 6 inch diameter.

I have 6 and12 inch digital Mitotoyos, from 1990 and 1993 and they are the only ones that are trusted to measure inside or out with accuracy. Most of the time I use the cheap Chinese ones from Lidl, and only use the Mits for precision work, I also have micrometers up to 150mm and a tube mic to 300mm, with the essential length bars. I often use the digital calipers as comparitors as it greatly simplifies measurements, which is impossible with mechanical instruments. I sold my digimatic mics as they weren't being used.

I use er25 and have a ball bearing nut, which should allow a reduction of 1/3 of the torque. The torques quoted are for the maximum size cutters, so if using an 8mm one, you could use half of the maximum amount. I have put spanner flats on the er body, (the current ones seem to have them from new),and have milled the jaws of a foot long spanner to match. The nut wrench is pressed into a foot long steel tube, and together, they make tightening and loosening easy. With er, it is always a good idea to have a folded up old towel underneath to catch the cutter as you break the collet taper.

If you want a shell mill, there are plenty of 40mm ones whick use 4 off APKT 11, or APMT 11 inserts. You will also need an arbor with a 22mm end which fits your spindle. You can use them with 2 or 4 inserts in them, or even 1 if you reduce the speed to allow for the out of balance forces. Inserts for steel and aluminium are freely available. I am not allowed to post a link on this forum.

That ARC 5" vise which I bought is a copy of the Kurt, not in the same league for quality, but at 15% of the price what would you expect. It benifits from the Stevenson spherical improvement which does help to minimise the jaw lifting. The first Bison 6512 type 100mm vise came with the drill mill, and I was extremely lucky to get another complete with a swivel base in unused condition for 20% of the list price. The two Bisons make a useful pair, although they are of different ages, the height is matched within 0.0005". On one, I have removed the rear lug to allow more Y axis movement on the mills, but have made a bolt on lug for when the vise is used lengthways on the mill.