Member postings for David Davies 8

I suggest that you join either the Sunbeam OC or the Vintage Motorcycle Club. These clubs will give you all the advice you need an be able to point you in the direction of specialist spares stockists.

HTH

Dave

Hi Hopper

I agree with Noel Shelly above, the DH and vertical slide together are easily worth £100 even if they need some elbow grease.

Cheers

Dave

What I thought was notable was the drive to the rear axle of your find included a torque tube. Not very often seen, my father's Peugeot 404 had a torque tube. Also IIRC the Peugeot had a hypoid gear arrangement and required an extreme pressure lubricant. Vegetable oil I believe. Don't start me on the aroma of Castrol R in TZ Yamahas.

Dave

Hi Michael,

I believe the”can” is there to complete the magnetic circuit. Once the “target” touches the face of the magnet a path exists for the magnetic flux to complete its circuit. For this to be so the “target” needs to be of sufficient diameter and aligned correctly to cover the can and magnet.

HTH

Dave

Hello Samuel

I agree entirely with your summary of the CMD10. I bought mine many years ago and it has served me well. I have managed to break one gear and blown a couple of the small on-board fuses in that time, Every instance was due to an error on my part.

I don't like the X/Y dial graduation. 1 turn equals 2mm travel which isn't a problem but the dials have 80 graduations not 100 which has caught me out once or twice. I should make some 100 grad dials for it.

The best things I have made for it are a couple of Stevenson blocks, square and hex. I use them regularly.

I use either an ER20 or ER32 collet chuck in the spindle.

I did think about buying a bigger table for it but I haven't done so yet.

Cheers

Dave

Interesting to see the measured currents Andrew. Yes the PF is poor, one would hope for 0.8 to 0.85.. Are they 4 pole machines? I The magnetizing current can be higher on 6 or more pole machines i believe.

Not knowing much about the A & S mill I assume it takes a 40 int arbor going by the drawbar diameter. Is this true?

Cheers

Dave

Hi Andrew

Do you have a 3 phase supply or is your horizontal mill inverter fed at 240V? It would be interesting to know what current the motor was pulling during your experiment.

Regards

Dave

I'm asking so i know what I could get away with.

Edited By David Davies 8 on 04/12/2022 23:08:53

JohnF and Ady1, thanks for your posts, both very helpful.

Thanks for the link Simon, very interesting!

Thanks Tony, I'll give that a try first.

Cheers

Dave

Good Evening

I have a strange problem with a recently acquired Albrecht 1/2 inch chuck and before I pull it to bits I wonder whether anyone has seen this behaviour before?

Holding the chuck in my hand, if I insert a drill bit and tighten it securely using both hands, the moment I release my grip on the hood it unwinds and loses its grip on the drill.. This happens on both 7mm and 11.5mm diameter drill bits.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Dave

Michael

Tubal Cain (T D Walshaw) lists nine colours for different metals/materials on P168 of my copy of the Model Engineer's handbook. (seventh impression 1991)

Will try to get an image online.

Cheers

Dave

Good morning.

We use them at work to hold a carbide insert into the toolpost of a scarfing machine on a continuous ERW tube mill.

I recently bought some spare ones for the machine and Sandvik do indeed list them under the name 'differential screw'

I assume that this is the literal translation to English from the makers mother tongue.

Cheers

Dave

Sorry to hear of your problems Noel, hope to see you on Saturday.

Current BMW bought eight years ago at 136K is now at 245k, it's a diesel and I've had my money's worth out of it!

Cheers

Dave

Be careful, normally motors that are dual voltage must be connected in star to run off a 415V supply and should be connected in delta to run from a 240V supply. The output power will be the same as the phase current is 1.732 times greater when connected in delta on the lower voltage (240V) supply.

HTH Dave

Hi Duncan

I haven’t built the boiler yet! You have mixed my op with another.

I’m fully aware of the consequences of exposing the firebox crown and the need for the bottom nut of the gauge frame to be above same.

l didn’t manage to “drop a plug” in 10 years of firing 12” to the foot locos!

Thanks for your kind offer of a set of drawings but I have a set already.

Cheers

Dave

Hi Phil

Many thanks for your prompt and thorough reply!

Cheers

Dave

Hello

I have recently seen references to the MELG model engineers boiler test code AKA the blue book.

Is this document freely available or is its issue restricted to Club Boiler Inspectors? If it is generally available can some kind soul point me in the direction of a source?

I am not a club member but would like sight of it to see what standards are expected before I commit myself to building a Tich boiler.

Thanks

Dave

Hi Pat,

an excellent account of your voyage of discovery! I laughed out loud at your experience of the cope lifting after pouring the metal into the flask. I had the same experience during one of my early essays into casting.

As Chuck said in one of his books, a couple of “wrong ‘uns” can be used to weight the cope down.

Keep up the good work and the posts.

Cheers

Dave

Algy

you have four wires. With a circuit tester (Fluke, AVO etc) find two wires that make a circuit. The other two wires should also make a separate circuit.

Connect the two circuits in parallel and apply live and neutral to the terminals. If the direction of rotation is wrong reverse one pair.

If in doubt take further advice before doing the above.

Also, as stated above ensure that the body of the motor is robustly earthed.

I have done this with my 1/3 HP Hoover motor which is not fitted with a capacitor.

HTH

Dave