Hoover Motor wiring

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Hopefully, if it a capacitor start motor, the terminals in the motor terminal box will be identified as Z1, Z2, A1, A2.

These will tell you which are the Start windings and the Run windings.

The more knowledgeable on here will tell you where to connect Live, Neutral and the Capacitor.(Via the centrifugal switch )

The motor can be reversed by reversing the capacitor connections to the Start windings.

The motor frame should be earthed for safety. Being single phase, it is quite likely to have rubber mounts between the motor body and the mounting bracket, so the earth wire must go to the body of the motor, not to the mounting bracket.

IF you are unsure, get someone who knows what they are doing to complete the wiring.

You do want to end up with the motor damaged, or yourself dead.

Howard

How would you damage the motor?

If you have four unidentified wires, a neutral and a live, go through all combinations and advise which one will lead to damage. A large number will lead to the motor not working (e.g. both ends of the same coil connected to live) but that is not a problem.

About the only thing I can think of is if two of the wires are ends of a common middle bit (i.e. no coil or capacitor in between). That would lead to a dead short, which would blow the fuse but still not damage the motor.

Again, on the killing himself part, repeat the exercise methodically and see how it is possible to produce a configuration where this is possible.

May be a universal motor, Hoover having made far more of those than induction motors.

Algy

you have four wires. With a circuit tester (Fluke, AVO etc) find two wires that make a circuit. The other two wires should also make a separate circuit.

Connect the two circuits in parallel and apply live and neutral to the terminals. If the direction of rotation is wrong reverse one pair.

If in doubt take further advice before doing the above.

Also, as stated above ensure that the body of the motor is robustly earthed.

I have done this with my 1/3 HP Hoover motor which is not fitted with a capacitor.

HTH

Dave

I think the point is that if you're not confident, then there is a fair chance that you will not in fact be methodical and end up holding two ends of a live wire. I did it myself some years ago replacing a bathroom downlight; having got the thing to bits I couldn't see something clearly so muscle memory took over and a hand reached around the door and flipped the bathroom lightswitch...zap! Fortunately I was only holding on with one hand so nothing more serious than a spicy thumb, but it was a useful lesson, one which could have been learnt an easier way.

Well on my Hoover circuit diagram it says you should have a terminal box with terminals marked AZ, C, and B. The run winding which will be the lowest resistance of the two windings (4/7 ohms area) should be connected to AZ & B and the wires should be WHITE and BLACK.. The start winding much thinner wire and much higher resistance should coloured GREEN & RED and they should be connected to C and B. The book says reverse change over BLACK & WHITE Leads. However, there is a second diagram which uses the same colours for the windings but it uses a terminal block with marking of 1,2, 3 and 4. Start winding is connected to 1 & 3 and run to ! & 4 with a link between 1 & 2, in this case exchange White to 4 and Black to 1.The capacitor is connected to 3 & 4 terminals, on older motors they very are susceptible. I hope you have access to an Ohm meter or even a bell set. As others have already said ensure the motor case is definitely earthed before doing any live testing. John