Member postings for Grindstone Cowboy

Joe Pieczynski has a video on Youtube in which he creates square holes with a punch similar to that shown by Ady1, but with only one cutting 'tooth'. He uses the quill on his mill to nibble away the corners.

Probably this video.

Rob

Links to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASz-Ayo6-xM

Yes, as I no longer buy every issue and the MEW content ad at the top of the forum appears to be stuck on "Minlathe Sharpen Mills and Drills", if an interesting article comes up on here it prompts me to nip down to the newsagents.

Rob

Not answering your question, I'm afraid, but I don't think silver steel would be the best choice for a half-shaft. Anyone else have an opinion?

Rob

Just received an email from Milwaukee power tools, they are currently(no pun intended) running a redemption scheme on their cordless mowers, you can claim a free leaf blower or hedge trimmer up to the end of June when buying the mower kit.

No recommendation implied, just thought it might be handy to know if you are in the market for a mower.

Rob

I don't think you've mentioned the spec of your computer, but from what you say about slow responses et al, it would seem to be short on processing power, RAM or both. Or you have an awful lot of stuff running in the background (intentionally or not) which is using resources.

Rob

Something that just ocurred to me - tool movement would be preferable to diameter reduction if you were screwcutting and wanted a specific thread depth i.e. "working to the book".

I just keep cutting and testing until a nut goes on...

Rob

Whilst working in my driveway, I heard a loud "pop", then the lady from across the road came over and asked if I could repair her mains-powered hedge trimmer. She'd nicked the cable fairly close to the machine, so I shortened the lead and gave it back. About fifteen minutes later she was back. Same problem but about half-way down the lead this time. I pointed out that she'd be a bit limited in range if I did another repair.

She's now got a battery-powered one...

Rob

Since nobody else has, how to post photos is here.

Rob

Links to https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=103028&p=1

Apologies, I had no idea the fuel feed was like that . Nicely explained, Bazyle, and the pictures in Michael's link were very handy too.

I learn something new every day, although I suspect a substantial percentage may be re-learning things I have forgotten.

Rob

Vaccuum being created in the tank, possibly? Removing the cap allows air to enter, solving the isuue?

Rob

Dave - I think he's talking about a wood turning chisel, unlikely to get thumped by a mallet (hopefully!)

Rob

To answer the original question, yes they do (or at least they used to, they may have been superseded by the barrel type shown by Nick). Precision / engineer's levels are another matter

Theodolites will give you a flat plane, but that may not be what you want - the towers on the Humber bridge are further apart at the top than at the bottom, otherwise they wouldn't be perpendicular to the Earth's surface (other bridges are available).

Rob

Some do, some don't...

As I understand it, the Americans tend to use the "total reduction in diameter" whereas here in the UK we use "tool distance". Other countries just seem to have picked whichever they prefer.

I may be wrong.

Rob

Odd, I'm not seeing that. There's a yellow bar that changes text every three or four seconds (same rate as the Eccentric Engineering advert), but hardly intrusive

Rob

Hi chaps

Sorry for the delay in replying, been away on holiday.

It's a genuine Mitutoyo, but unsure of the age as I bought it at a car show many years ago. One of the three hinges is definitely parting company. Not sure if age or storage conditions have a bearing on it, but I can see that the box has bowed slightly so the axis of the hinge pins (for want of a better description) is not a straight line. I guess that puts extra stress on it.

Rob

Thanks chaps, all useful info as usual. I think I've found an equivalent type of foam and some wing hinges on Amazon. Might just try some Gorilla tape in the interim and see how that goes on the hinges.

The wooden box idea will go on the "to do" list, though!

Thanks again.

Rob

Hi

Does anyone have any good tips for repairing plastic hinges? I mean the type that are moulded into the box and flex as you open and close the box. My Mitutoyo dial caliper box is starting to show definite signs of failure and I'd like to catch it before they part company completely.

As an aside, I'm also going to replace the foam inserts which have completely disintegrated - any tips for what to replace those with?

Many thanks,

Rob

Looks like a non-original motor to me, more like a MachineMart one like I have on a Myford. Nothing at all wrong with that, but rear cover is most likely plastic, so unlikely to be dented BUT may have been broken with bits falling into inconvenient places. However, I think following the advice given above is a sound way to proceed.

I'm thinking loose pulley.

Rob

They are available, but as Roy says, probably more cost-effective to get a whole new chuck, as other parts are no doubt as worn as the jaws.

(No connection to Rotagrip other than as a satisfied customer)

Rob

Links to http://www.rotagriponline.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=267&category_id=205&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29

I made this once, and accidentally spilled some of the crystals on the front steps. Gave the milkman a nasty turn the next morning

Rob