Member postings for Jon Lawes

No, it's just the way my trousers sit.

I don't, I wasn't aware such a thing existed but that sounds like a good idea, thanks.

I'm getting worried about how much cast iron dust gets into the slide mechanism of my ML7, I've got a little guard that was made to keep the worst off the bed but its still worrying how much gets into places to cause abrasive mayhem.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to either keep it at bay or routinely clean everything after use? I don't have an airline, I've been flushing everything with duck oil or similar.

Suggestions welcome; its a hole in my knowledge I would love to sort.

Yes those are bayonet fit bulbs (well bulb holders but they usually come as a complete unit), quite a simple fix.

I was a coward with my leg coming off; General anaesthetic!

However the physio did come to see me the next day to tell me if I behaved myself I could be out of the bed and walking on crutches by the end of the week. I was eating a chocolate bar I'd bought from the vending machine in the main corridor at the time... I couldn't work out if she was pleased or grumpy when I told her.

This was a little over ten years ago, and I was off work for four weeks. These days the only residual pain is phantom limb syndrome, which I would happily swap for a kick in the gentlemans area any day of the week. Kidney stones you can keep mind.

What a lovely piece of work, well done.

I'm fairly certain a bulb has gone....

Feel free to use this link for a dropbox account, then we both get more space than standard (as a referal incentive). Unless of course JasonB wants to provide a referral link, only fair as he mentioned it first.

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Have you got a bit more information so we can flesh out the request a little? Was this the aforementioned Jenny?

Your plunger could be held out the way by steam pressure, only engaging when steam pressure is removed from the feed.

I didn't actually know mills were that affordable... I'd almost written them off as "I'll never own one of those"...

It sounds like you are in exactly the right place.

Second vote for Prittstick, I've used it for holding a guitar pickguard pattern to a sheet of stainless before marking out and it held remarkably well and removed cleanly.

How Green was Myford - Althread Newman

No Plate Like Chrome - Glenn Camballjoint.

Foo Fighters - Monkey Wrench

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This seems like a good starter, something like that would be ideal. Did you manage to get a lathe in the end?

As a beginner myself I'm finding a lot of the things I am interested in take a little searching, or research, or conversion into a useful scale or size. It's a great deal of the pleasure, not much is "on a plate".

On the ranges at Larkhill one of the Observation posts overlooking the shell landing points has a set of German U-Boat binos on a tripod, complete with Eagle insignia. No one could remember where it had come from but it was suspected from a captured U-Boat during WW2. The optics were so perfectly crystal it was like an extension of your own eyes. Amazing.

Only place I've ever seen Tri-wing is a BAE Hawk! Tri wing I thought look a bit narrower on the "wings" than that.

Can I just say what a fantastic job you have made on that tender. I'll be attempting a 3.5 BR1D soon and if I can come close to the finish and fit of the one you have made I would be very happy. Nice work.

Whilst reading David Clarke's book on the Riddles Class 7 Standard Pacific ("Britannia" Class) he shows a close up of the balance weight on a main driving wheel. He points out that these were actually not solid, but merely pockets that were filled with molten lead to achieve the correct balance.

My question is how did they achieve this back in the day? Before accurate dynamic balancing machines using strain gauges and such, was it just a static balance (maybe balance it on a point and add lead till it sits level as some cheap home automotive balancers do?).

Thanks for any information, as you've probably guessed I don't have any full size loco wheels to balance but would love to know how it was done effectively! I guess it didn't have to be perfect as the speed of rotation was relatively low even for high speed locomotives with smaller wheels.

Jon.

It would probably work out more cost effective to buy modern 2.4ghz radio gear, I realise for some people using the older kit is half the appeal though. The newer stuff has hugely superior battery life, range, resistance to shared channels and is a fraction of the price.