Member postings for Jon Lawes

I've been thinking lately that the pyrex type glass they use in Vaping machines would be excellent for a drip feed oiler, especially if you are making something petite. I'm aware you have the glass, just an observation.

I used to collect interesting cigarette lighters. Mass produced stuff primarily. But charity shops stopped selling them (an angry lady in Salisbury shouted at me for daring to ask if they had any lighters in a British Heart Foundation shop.... how dare I etc. etc.) and ebay means finding anything of interest for a few quid just doesn't happen.

To think outside the box a little, what sort of boat? Is it a narrowboat or similar? Does the engine of the boat already have some sort of compressor for running other components? Could you find something that would run off of there? Or even have an engine driven compressor feed an accumulator? The compressor doesn't need to be where it is being used, and a pipeline between the compressor and point of use just serves as extra pressure storage if the regulator is done at point of use...

I know its all a bit random, just trying to look at other options for you.

Mike has said it perfectly.

How on earth does that work then V8Eng, sounds like snake oil (only sounds like, your results sound pretty convincing)

Agreed, I converted my Morris 1000 to negative earth and had to flash the dynamo to achieve it. It wasn't onerous.

From what I can see of your craftsmanship the world is your oyster.

The jets in my carbs used to have waxstat units that mucked up the mixture when hot. I've fitted normal ones now. Take that technology!

Noted, I'm motoring through BA fasteners at a rate of knots on my Brit build.

If you turn the handle side to side to expose the backlash you can see the whole thread moving back and forth. That's what indicated to me that was where the problem lay. I suspected it wasn't the nut in my case as the lathe hadn't been used much

**LINK**

This modification is available for the ML7 (I'm aware you are referring to the super 7), I wonder if something similar could be done. I used the bearings listed for my ML7 and it improved things drastically.

Q max would be my vote too, even home made.

It's a bit north for you (I'm North Dorset) but I travel to Westbury to the WWSME, a fantastically helpful society who have assisted me no end, despite all my daft question. You would be made most welcome if you ever want to visit.

Superb.

My 10H was quite slow to arrive from Stuart; it was a birthday present ordered a few months before my birthday, and my birthday came and went, and more weeks besides. When it did turn up I had a problem with one of the castings, which to their credit they replaced without quibble. However there was the same delay of just over a month for the new one to arrive. The general quality of the 10H kit was very good indeed.

Stuart's customer service was good, but you have to wait for them...

My experiences with Reeves I have spoken about before. My personal experiences with their customer services encourages me to use other vendors unless there isn't another option.

I wonder if the bolt previously was a larger one with a spring under it?

Do they fit together the other way?

Well done Philip

I find the handwheel on my lathe annoying (ML7) as the graduations don't go up cleanly in tens for each revolution. I can't explain it very well, but I mean the end of the graduations end in a five when it reaches zero.

I know what I mean if no-one else does...

Could it be a 1-1/8 x 12 tpi whitworth form thread? That would be Myford. My apologies if wrong.