Member postings for Mark Davison 1

From memory there's a couple of parameters that control the range the pot spans. They aren't obvious from the descriptions.

Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 04/10/2023 20:53:07

Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 04/10/2023 20:54:23

25mm thick with a hole saw (carbide or hss) sounds like a recipe for disaster, it will just clog. You will have move success with a rotabroach style cutter. The chip evacuation is far better. Make your own arbor from a soft ended blank.

I removed the 3rd shaft from mine when I converted it to VFD control. It is so much easier to sweep out the swarf with it removed !

Webbed Angle Plate 5 x 5 x 5in

I suspect shipping to New Zealand will make this less of a bargin. It is slight shorter than the original.

Yes, cast iron is readily available here  

Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 08/07/2023 05:41:11

If you can feel the rack teeth I'd suspect the slideways are worn to the extent that the table has dropped (and the rack with it). That rack looks original (the curved end). If you were in the UK I'd point you to rotogrip who sell plain cast iron angle plates cheap. I bought a 5" one and cut it up to make a universal head bracket. An ER32 collect chuck on a 32mm straight shank and a lump of cast iron to mount it in.

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Try Joe Pie on YouTube

And my 7075 round bar from GWR arrived today. i always use GWR if i'm buying small quantities of fasteners online (typically via evilbay), their service is always very fast and very competitivly priced.

M-machine every time, never had a problem. I have been waiting since the 8th for some 7075 from GWR Fasteners, but i suspect that's royal mail's fault, not GWR's.

Don't!

Exhaust the VFD option first, even if it means digging out the star point. I paid a fortune for a new B56 framed imperial single phase motor for my meddings (the motor pulley did look like it would take the larger shaft of an 80 frame) only to swap back to the original 3 phase motor and a VFD a couple of years later.

The 3 phase motor is so much smoother not to mention easier to control (signal cables not mains to the switch gear). Wiring up a 3 phase barrel switch for reversing single phase can be done but I ended up with loads of stiff cable that was difficult to route. If I'd understood how easy it can be to find the star point and reconfigure an old 3 phase motor id never have gone the single phase route in the first place.

Looks like someone has placed fallen leafs on each tooth.

A granite surface plate of that sort of size would be at least 4" thick, probably more. Even my 8"x12" is 4" thick.

If you have bought an HR Lamb straight edge from Clive be prepared to be patient ! It will be worth the wait when it arrives.

Tony, what sort of motor did you use for the slow grinder/lap?

I've got 4 of the 2.2kw cheap Chinese VFDs running everything from a 2.2kw motor on my Colchester bantam, a 1.5kw on a harrison mill to a couple of small motors on a meddings drill press and clarkson cutter grinder. The only issue i every have is cranking up the speed on the mill whilst the gearbox oil is cold (ISO220 oil). The VFD will throw a over current error.

I wouldn't contemplate down grading the M300 to 1.5kw. If there is any chance that you are going to trouble the current rating of a 13amp socket with 2.2kw motor then a 1.5kw is going to frustrate you with a lack of power.

The 9 terminals make it sound like a 2 speed motor. Im pretty sure you can't make use of the 2 speed switch whilst using the vfd (temporary disconnection of the load under power whilst switching i suppose).

If I didnt need 4 VFDs I'd have bought a branded one and forked out what will now no doubt be £250 for the 2.2kw on the lathe, but to be honest I've never had an issue with the Chinese one (only ever on the mill and thats easy to work round by warming up the oil first).

The main thing that would push me to a western branded VFD now would be politics, but that would mean the western branded one couldn't be made in China!

Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 25/10/2022 05:36:22

Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 25/10/2022 05:39:21

Not if you want to buy a ton. Should you only need a foot or two then probably.

My mistake, £13.99.

https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/materials-and-maintenance/silver-steel/5-8inch-diameter-x-39inch-silver-steel/p/ZT1060662X

At the time of posting this it is £11.99 for 39". Yes, more than most of us will need.

The VAT number is registered to the same name, not sure what to make of the address the VAT number is registered to. The address in Delhi is a backstreet, certainly not a factory.

I'd buy from one of the usual UK suspects but the only one that stocks something this long is out of stock. This appears to be shipping from the UK and has a tolerance specified in the ad so if it is way out I could try complaining and ask for a refund.

Has anyone tried Bluefox tools (India)?

I started with you tube and have since been lucky enough to get some coaching from Pete, but am still very new to this. I still suffer the problems that you seem to and find the following to be the main causes;

I am constantly surprised at how much difference a freshly sharpened blade makes. Try touching it up on a diamond lapping disk every few passes, even for carbide. I find it makes a huge difference. Your blade geometry sounds correct.

Rolling out in one area and then transferring to another was the single biggest thing that helped me. As for the roller, I'd been struggling with a cheepy ebay roller until I finally went to the art shop in town and spent £7 on a descent one. That made a big difference too. I actually bought two, a 2" and 4".

When I have the blue on the plate thin enough I find it dries out quite quickly. Im now wiping it clean and starting again much more often than I did initially. I find i need to do this to both plates, not just the one I'm printing from for best results. I use the Stuart's. I've left the top off the tube a few times and some of the oil has separated out so I'm going to buy a new tube.